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Considering a "backwards" move- 911 Turbo to 987 Cayman S

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Old 01-15-2017, 10:23 PM
  #16  
A432
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Originally Posted by vbb
I am still trying to decide/research how prevalent the problems with the 987.1 are. Getting mixed information. Some say the cars are totally fine and don't need anything as long as you aren't running R-comps and pulling high Gs... others act like oil starvation or power steering failures are bound to happen even with a few DEs.
Most of the history of the 987.1's (forum wise) is at planet 9.
Check that out for your answer, but imho the risk reward is too great, went with a .2.
Old 01-15-2017, 10:27 PM
  #17  
spyderphile
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Though I never had a Turbo, I can totally relate to that axiom, 'it is more fun to drive/ride slow vehicle fast than a fast vehicle slow'! Contemporary sports cars (and, motorcycles) have become too fast for the public roads. If you aren't tracking, these vehicle are total waste. We all like the styling, handling and the experience. But, except for a very brief and occasional opportunities, all these power are useless.

I too would vote for a 987.2. However, before you pull the trigger, as Yogi911 suggested, drive a 981 base. 981 has numerous improvements over 987.2. Except for the steering and hand brake, 981 would outclass all prior generation models. I would suggest the base, as it would allow you to rev to redline more often and enjoy that awesome 2.7 soundtrack.
Old 01-15-2017, 10:39 PM
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Marine Blue
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Originally Posted by A432
'09-'12 base 2.9 9A1's aren't DFI
I had heard that also but according to old lit they are? http://press.porsche.com/vehicles/09..._-_S_Specs.pdf
Old 01-15-2017, 10:50 PM
  #19  
A432
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Originally Posted by the_rider
Except for the steering and hand brake, 981 would outclass all prior generation models. .
Would agree with you in terms of interior, but it would end there.
I would much rather track a 987.2 over a 981 for its benefits of steel construction, stronger front suspension mounts and lower prices for the car and parts/repairs.
Look at the people having to replace tubs with 981/991 aluminum construction taking a hit. Steel 987/997's haven't had that issue with similar use.
Old 01-15-2017, 10:52 PM
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A432
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
I had heard that also but according to old lit they are? http://press.porsche.com/vehicles/09..._-_S_Specs.pdf
That Porsche chart is incorrect. The '09-'12 base 2.9's had Bosch DME and port injection
while the '09-'12 3.4's had Seimens DME's with DFI. DFI and Seimens DME's started with the base cars on the 981 2.7.
If you want to see for yourself you can look on the parts microfiche for the MA1.20 (2.9) and MA1.21 (3.4) for the completely different parts for the heads/injection/DME parts.
The high pressure pump on the MA1.21 list which is missing on the MA1.20 list gives it away.

Last edited by A432; 01-15-2017 at 11:17 PM.
Old 01-16-2017, 12:43 AM
  #21  
spyderphile
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Originally Posted by A432
Would agree with you in terms of interior, but it would end there.
I would much rather track a 987.2 over a 981 for its benefits of steel construction, stronger front suspension mounts and lower prices for the car and parts/repairs.
Look at the people having to replace tubs with 981/991 aluminum construction taking a hit. Steel 987/997's haven't had that issue with similar use.
Ok, I stand corrected. Have no experience with tracking; nor do I follow the details of tracking different generations. Since 'vbb' is more interested in tracking, your points would serve well. Even for the street driving, lower repair cost and parts would be of relevance.
Old 01-16-2017, 01:06 AM
  #22  
caymannyc
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Originally Posted by rk-d
Funny enough I'm switching from 981 (GT4) to a 991.2 TT.

Yes, slow car fast is true to an extent. But then again, cheap thrills are easy when you have torque. It can be frustrating being unable to really wind out the car driving around town - do you want to regularly wind it out >5000RPM? To be honest, it does sometimes get a little old.
I'm sorry, but where exactly do you need to ever wind out ANY car at >5000RPM driving on public roads in the USA? Cheap thrills from a stop sign or red light sure you can get that pulling feeling, but when exactly do you ever need to go over 5,000RPM at any speed if you don't want to?

The vast majority of cars out there are things like the Camry and the Accord, and plenty of Camry/Accord drivers manage to kill themselves/others speeding, not sure what's wrong with the Cayman in that regard.

It sounds like you want straight line torque to do some fast pulls from stops/traffic lights? If so that's totally up to you, but at least say that instead of some reference to "wind out the car driving around town." I mean if your town has no speed limits or is relatively deserted, that's a different story, but if you live in any large metropolitan area your options for pushing any car are limited to basically illegal midnight runs or speeding down I-90.
Old 01-16-2017, 01:36 AM
  #23  
Marine Blue
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Originally Posted by A432
That Porsche chart is incorrect. The '09-'12 base 2.9's had Bosch DME and port injection
while the '09-'12 3.4's had Seimens DME's with DFI. DFI and Seimens DME's started with the base cars on the 981 2.7.
If you want to see for yourself you can look on the parts microfiche for the MA1.20 (2.9) and MA1.21 (3.4) for the completely different parts for the heads/injection/DME parts.
The high pressure pump on the MA1.21 list which is missing on the MA1.20 list gives it away.
Your reply explains what I had heard so reading the sales literature is misleading.

So at what point did Porsche eliminate the IMS issue in the base models?
Old 01-16-2017, 01:46 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Your reply explains what I had heard so reading the sales literature is misleading.

So at what point did Porsche eliminate the IMS issue in the base models?
The thing that was funny about that brochure is that 2 lines lower they say port injection as if the person who organized it did it vertically and not in vertical columns separating the two injection types.

The IMS was improved with the M97 in the '06-'08 987.1 Caymans over the previous M96 but still had some issues.
All the 987.2 '09-'12 engines (2.9 & 3.4 9A1's) are of the same mechanical design with the improvements in no IMS, closed block, demand controlled multi stage pump oiling etc.
The 2.9's ran the regular Bosch injection and as a result also ran 11.5:1 compression vs. the 3.4's DFI 12.5:1 due to the cooling effect of the DFI injection into the chamber.
That's one of the reasons the DFI engines feel torquier than the same displacement port injected ones. That said, the 2.9 still felt a little torquier to me than the 981's 2.7
not only because it was rated about 8ft.lb higher, but it was at a little earlier rpm. That's another reason I think the base 2.9 987.2 with the 9A1 is a great starter track car and very affordable.
If someone ever wanted to make it a 3.4-4.2 DFI, they would just have to get a Seimens DME and engine/adapter harness from BGB and could convert it.

Last edited by A432; 01-16-2017 at 02:01 AM.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by caymannyc
I'm sorry, but where exactly do you need to ever wind out ANY car at >5000RPM driving on public roads in the USA? Cheap thrills from a stop sign or red light sure you can get that pulling feeling, but when exactly do you ever need to go over 5,000RPM at any speed if you don't want to?

................
Actually, I do; at every available opportunity, on a daily basis, in an S2000. Here is the top-four gearing:

1st: 38 mph
2nd: 56
3rd: 78
4th: 100

As you can see, without excessively exceeding the speed limit of a freeway (or streets), I wind up in first three gears. I thoroughly enjoy doing so. Even while driving through snow, I tend to go over 6k in 1st and 2nd. However, I do admit that most drivers aren't as crazy as I am! The point is, if the car lacks low and mid range torque, you can only move meaningfully by winding it up. Though that sort of driving is not everyone, it is a ton of fun, if you are into that sort of things!
Old 01-16-2017, 06:50 AM
  #26  
vbb
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The low end torque of my turbo would definitely be my preference if this were going to be a daily driver or a car that I would not track. I know if I sell it I'm going to miss many things about it. That said, it's just not a car I want to put on the track, which is the driving force behind this thread. I don't mind having to wind a car out to go fast if I plan on taking it to a place where I can do just that.
Old 01-16-2017, 12:17 PM
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As someone with a 987.1, I had to seriously examine my motivations, and consider "To Track, or Not To Track?" prior to purchase.

Had track life been important, I would have gone 2009+ 987.2 Base or S.

I determined that this would be my fun commuter and weekend car, and the track scene was too rich for my blood. I've had several lifetimes of fun on motorcycles, and only been on tracks twice.

I got a 987.1 last March, and read a LOT beforehand, and try not to read too much about IMS bearings and cylinder failures, now. I made my choice. I change fluids frequently, and monitor vitals. About to do a proactive AOS and needed MAF replacement.

My two cents: pure, fun street car that won't lose your license , and looks great in a classic starlet sort of way: 987.1

Trackable and sometimes-street car: 987.2 or 981/718.

Unless you _love_ to wrench and have seriously disposable income.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BoulderGeek
As someone with a 987.1, I had to seriously examine my motivations, and consider "To Track, or Not To Track?" prior to purchase.

Had track life been important, I would have gone 2009+ 987.2 Base or S.

I determined that this would be my fun commuter and weekend car, and the track scene was too rich for my blood. I've had several lifetimes of fun on motorcycles, and only been on tracks twice.

I got a 987.1 last March, and read a LOT beforehand, and try not to read too much about IMS bearings and cylinder failures, now. I made my choice. I change fluids frequently, and monitor vitals. About to do a proactive AOS and needed MAF replacement.

My two cents: pure, fun street car that won't lose your license , and looks great in a classic starlet sort of way: 987.1

Trackable and sometimes-street car: 987.2 or 981/718.

Unless you _love_ to wrench and have seriously disposable income.
Thanks for the reply/advice. My target is 3 track visits a year. Even if money were not an option (and it is), that's about all I can commit to with my time. So, I don't think that is considered "heavy" tracking by anyone's standards. Of course I want to get good at it, but figure running R-comps, cages and doing modifications that no longer make the car streetable is not something I'm interested in doing. And, if I get bit really hard by the bug and want to dive all the way in, then I can always get a different car at that point.

So with that in mind, I'm still trying to decide if I'd be making a huge mistake by getting a 987.1. Every car has its known problems, and no matter what the car, the cases of failures will be talked about more on the forums than the cases where the car ran fine. That said, some people make it seem like putting a 987.1 on the track is going to result in the car blowing up, haha. I have to imagine that is exaggerated. I get that the 987.2 is generally viewed as a more reliable platform but I don't think the .1 is a junk heap. I'm just keeping an open search. If I come across something--base, CS, .1, .2, that catches my eye, I'm open. If I do get a .1, a previous owner that has done the cheap fixes for the power steering heat and the potential oil starvation issue already will have a car that is more interesting to me over one where I'll have to consider doing that stuff myself.

+90% of my planned use for the car will not be on the track. I'm not a total novice wrencher, but am not the type of guy who does all my own work either, so anything major will have to go to a trusted indy garage (a guy who has built and raced Porsches for 30 years). I trust the work, but don't want to pay for a bunch of repairs all the time either, so I want something at least moderately reliable.

Thanks again for the replies.
Old 01-16-2017, 02:53 PM
  #29  
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How about the 996 or 997.1? Keeps you in a 911 and lower costs?
Old 01-16-2017, 02:58 PM
  #30  
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Sounds like a "mature" idea. We tend to look to the top of the line models as better, but for most there is no sense in having one. A 987 S can give you as much fun for less money, the handling is probably even better.

I will agree with the 987.2 idea, much more reliable. Even better if it's an R or Spyder.


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