Ac questions.
07-12-2016, 02:10 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes I replaced schrader on low side but the problem turned out to be a bad coupling. Rented another set of gauges from autozone and then it charged fine.
Going to see if a schrader will fit into high side fitting or buy a new high side fitting when I get home.
Thanks for info!!
Going to see if a schrader will fit into high side fitting or buy a new high side fitting when I get home.
Thanks for info!!
03-15-2017, 05:34 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just installed my new compressor and currently running a vacuum on the system.
The service manual says 680g of refrigerant but it also says model year 93 onward. Since my car is a 92 and was converted to 134 should I put that same amount in as a 93 r134 system?
The service manual says 680g of refrigerant but it also says model year 93 onward. Since my car is a 92 and was converted to 134 should I put that same amount in as a 93 r134 system?
03-15-2017, 06:41 PM
#21
Snooty... I can say over the many years of driven and ownen enough Porsche's there are those days when another pulls up along side me..... and they are usually faster than mine, prettier than mine, and more costiy than mine.
On those days I just pretend I'm Clark Griswold starring over at Chistie.
Yup, you got me on that one, 860 = 30.33616
On those days I just pretend I'm Clark Griswold starring over at Chistie.
Yup, you got me on that one, 860 = 30.33616
03-16-2017, 05:19 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well that's it I'm ****ing done with this damn car.
New compressor new hoses new condenser new drier new r134 conversion kit from Mr Griffeths.
Pulled a vac on it for 3 hours yesterday. Held the vac the entire night and this morning. No leaks.
Hook up the 134 turn everything on, open the blue side, pressure goes to 80 psi on gauge, compressor doesn't come on. Tried several times, put can in warm water, blue side goes to 100 psi, no compressor kick on. Purge valve shows freon flowing from can to manifold.
Checked circuit breakers
Turned everything off and let a little pressure into red side then tried again, no compressor.
Jumped compressor for 2 seconds, clutch kicked on, no change in blue side pressure.
Turned everything off and closed blue side coupler at compressor then unhooked, pressed on blue side shrader valve got some gas and oil coming out.
Rehooked blue side coupler and opened, heard gas flow into hose.
Ac was working before I put new compressor on so I think all switches are fine.
Don't know what else to try, watched several YouTube videos and I'm doing everything right.
New compressor new hoses new condenser new drier new r134 conversion kit from Mr Griffeths.
Pulled a vac on it for 3 hours yesterday. Held the vac the entire night and this morning. No leaks.
Hook up the 134 turn everything on, open the blue side, pressure goes to 80 psi on gauge, compressor doesn't come on. Tried several times, put can in warm water, blue side goes to 100 psi, no compressor kick on. Purge valve shows freon flowing from can to manifold.
Checked circuit breakers
Turned everything off and let a little pressure into red side then tried again, no compressor.
Jumped compressor for 2 seconds, clutch kicked on, no change in blue side pressure.
Turned everything off and closed blue side coupler at compressor then unhooked, pressed on blue side shrader valve got some gas and oil coming out.
Rehooked blue side coupler and opened, heard gas flow into hose.
Ac was working before I put new compressor on so I think all switches are fine.
Don't know what else to try, watched several YouTube videos and I'm doing everything right.
03-16-2017, 05:44 PM
#25
Darn it, if that does not sound like my lawn mower trying to take that first cut of the season.
If the new compressor clutch can be jumped and clicks, and the previous compressor worked on the car, hip shot says its not the low side pressure cut off switch.
I'm gonna guess its something with not enough refrigerant actually getting into the system. A procedure thing with your manifold set and service hoses.
Just a few reminders:
Depending upon the design of your snap coupler attaching onto the R134a service port on the car....
A) Simple type snaps on and immediately presses in the schrader valve.
B) **** type, you must turn the **** CCW (to the left is "off") to retract the pin inside the coupler before you snap it onto the service port. After you attach the coupler to the service port you turn the **** CW (to the right is "on") to move the pin inside to press down on the schrader valve inside the service port.
If you are attaching R134a service port adapters, that have their own internal schrader valve, onto R12 service ports you must remove the schrader valve from the R12 service ports.
If you are using 12 oz cans, figure you need almost 1 can in the system to trip the low side pressure switch so the clutch can engage.
When DIY charging, briefly:
Have engine off, connect your service hoses, pull a 'one last vacuum' before you start to charge.
After you tap your can and open the flow to the system, can should be upright (gas) and charge initially through both low and high sides.
After you get the first can in, only charge through the low side, engine running.
Be careful not to introduce air into the system when swapping cans.
Your initial bogey, on this job is 30 oz R134a, however final charge is based on Temperatures and Pressures.
If the new compressor clutch can be jumped and clicks, and the previous compressor worked on the car, hip shot says its not the low side pressure cut off switch.
I'm gonna guess its something with not enough refrigerant actually getting into the system. A procedure thing with your manifold set and service hoses.
Just a few reminders:
Depending upon the design of your snap coupler attaching onto the R134a service port on the car....
A) Simple type snaps on and immediately presses in the schrader valve.
B) **** type, you must turn the **** CCW (to the left is "off") to retract the pin inside the coupler before you snap it onto the service port. After you attach the coupler to the service port you turn the **** CW (to the right is "on") to move the pin inside to press down on the schrader valve inside the service port.
If you are attaching R134a service port adapters, that have their own internal schrader valve, onto R12 service ports you must remove the schrader valve from the R12 service ports.
If you are using 12 oz cans, figure you need almost 1 can in the system to trip the low side pressure switch so the clutch can engage.
When DIY charging, briefly:
Have engine off, connect your service hoses, pull a 'one last vacuum' before you start to charge.
After you tap your can and open the flow to the system, can should be upright (gas) and charge initially through both low and high sides.
After you get the first can in, only charge through the low side, engine running.
Be careful not to introduce air into the system when swapping cans.
Your initial bogey, on this job is 30 oz R134a, however final charge is based on Temperatures and Pressures.
Last edited by griffiths; 03-16-2017 at 06:20 PM.
03-16-2017, 06:30 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes I have the **** type couplers. I rented the manifold from autozone.
When I connected your new r134 service ports I made sure old shrader valves were removed.
I did have the pins retracted before I hooked up the couplers and then turned clockwise to open the Schrader valves.
After hooking up 134 can and opening blue side after everything I tried I weighed the can and it only went down 2oz so I don't think anything is even getting into the system.
But when I opened the blue side the second time with car off after re-attaching I heard a gas flow so I'm assuming it's opening the schrader valve.
When I connected your new r134 service ports I made sure old shrader valves were removed.
I did have the pins retracted before I hooked up the couplers and then turned clockwise to open the Schrader valves.
After hooking up 134 can and opening blue side after everything I tried I weighed the can and it only went down 2oz so I don't think anything is even getting into the system.
But when I opened the blue side the second time with car off after re-attaching I heard a gas flow so I'm assuming it's opening the schrader valve.
03-16-2017, 07:22 PM
#27
I have heard, once, lately of someone renting or borrowing a gauge set from a big box store, having an issue, returning it and getting another it resolved his problem. Not saying that is the situation just yet.
In order to get a sufficient amount of refrigerant into the car, let's just walk through all the "yeah, I did that" stuff.. maybe create a check sheet just to be sure:
Ideally you want a 2 digital gauge (low side with micron capablity), 4 hose, 4 manifold valve service set, a 30 lb refrig can with a heater blanket.
This allows you to verify vacuum level, pull vacuums on all hoses, no swapping of cans, intial liquid charging, and accurate reads.
And, ideally I want 2015 Porsche 918 Spyder, pit crew and beach house
Assuming you have a 2 analog gauge, 3 hose, 2 manifold valve service set...
1) System was pulled down best you could near -30" inHG
2) Service hoses attached to vehicle service ports, valves "off" CCW,
the 2 manifold valves on the gauge set are 'off' CCW.
3) You tap the can of refrigerant refrigerant, open the can's valve (depending upon what type of tap you got) then purge air in the refrigerant line at the service manifold (wear safety glasses cause getting shot in the eye with this stuff makes for a bad day). The can should be in an upright position, this is charging by 'gas', if its upside down that is charging by 'liquid' and that can 'slug' the compressor.
4) Open the valves (CW) on the high and low side couplers attached to the vehicles service ports.
5) Open the 2 valves on your manifold. If your manifold has a site glass you should see fluid moving through it.
6) You can also tell you have refrigerant movement when the can of refrigerant gets cold.
7) Submerging the can of refrigerant in warm water will increase the flow rate.
8) If the can of refrigerant does not getting lighter there is blockage somewhere between the can and the vehicle. It could be :
A) Refrigerant can not properly tapped.
B) Service valve on manifold gauge set is not open.
C) Snap coupler not open at vehicle service port.
D) Schrader valve not open at vehicle service port
E) The vehicle did not have sufficient evacuation.
F) You need to increase the pressure in the can (in warm water, never use a flame)
9) After you get the first can in the vehicle you close (CCW) both service couplers and both service valves on the manifold.
10) Retap your 2nd can.
11) Purge the refrigerant line of air.
12) Start the engine, turn on the AC and visually check the compressor clutch has engaged (out hub is turning with the pulley).
13) Open (CW) the service coupler on the low side at the vehicle. Do NOT
open the high side coupler.
14) Open the low side valve on the manifold. Do NOT open the high side valve on the manifold.
15) Allow the 2nd can to be sucked into the system.
16) For the 3rd 12 oz can, when you put it in the vehicle remember
3 x 12 = 36 oz, so you are going to have to 'guess' where 30 oz is.
Those are the basics.
In order to get a sufficient amount of refrigerant into the car, let's just walk through all the "yeah, I did that" stuff.. maybe create a check sheet just to be sure:
Ideally you want a 2 digital gauge (low side with micron capablity), 4 hose, 4 manifold valve service set, a 30 lb refrig can with a heater blanket.
This allows you to verify vacuum level, pull vacuums on all hoses, no swapping of cans, intial liquid charging, and accurate reads.
And, ideally I want 2015 Porsche 918 Spyder, pit crew and beach house
Assuming you have a 2 analog gauge, 3 hose, 2 manifold valve service set...
1) System was pulled down best you could near -30" inHG
2) Service hoses attached to vehicle service ports, valves "off" CCW,
the 2 manifold valves on the gauge set are 'off' CCW.
3) You tap the can of refrigerant refrigerant, open the can's valve (depending upon what type of tap you got) then purge air in the refrigerant line at the service manifold (wear safety glasses cause getting shot in the eye with this stuff makes for a bad day). The can should be in an upright position, this is charging by 'gas', if its upside down that is charging by 'liquid' and that can 'slug' the compressor.
4) Open the valves (CW) on the high and low side couplers attached to the vehicles service ports.
5) Open the 2 valves on your manifold. If your manifold has a site glass you should see fluid moving through it.
6) You can also tell you have refrigerant movement when the can of refrigerant gets cold.
7) Submerging the can of refrigerant in warm water will increase the flow rate.
8) If the can of refrigerant does not getting lighter there is blockage somewhere between the can and the vehicle. It could be :
A) Refrigerant can not properly tapped.
B) Service valve on manifold gauge set is not open.
C) Snap coupler not open at vehicle service port.
D) Schrader valve not open at vehicle service port
E) The vehicle did not have sufficient evacuation.
F) You need to increase the pressure in the can (in warm water, never use a flame)
9) After you get the first can in the vehicle you close (CCW) both service couplers and both service valves on the manifold.
10) Retap your 2nd can.
11) Purge the refrigerant line of air.
12) Start the engine, turn on the AC and visually check the compressor clutch has engaged (out hub is turning with the pulley).
13) Open (CW) the service coupler on the low side at the vehicle. Do NOT
open the high side coupler.
14) Open the low side valve on the manifold. Do NOT open the high side valve on the manifold.
15) Allow the 2nd can to be sucked into the system.
16) For the 3rd 12 oz can, when you put it in the vehicle remember
3 x 12 = 36 oz, so you are going to have to 'guess' where 30 oz is.
Those are the basics.
Last edited by griffiths; 03-16-2017 at 08:08 PM.
03-16-2017, 08:46 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for taking the time to go through the steps!!
For the second time in a row I have gotten a bad gauge/hose set.
The blue side was blocked at the manifold due to a bad o-ring which was crushed and blocking the port.
I'm going to have to purchase a good set instead of this crap autozone rents out.
For the second time in a row I have gotten a bad gauge/hose set.
The blue side was blocked at the manifold due to a bad o-ring which was crushed and blocking the port.
I'm going to have to purchase a good set instead of this crap autozone rents out.
03-16-2017, 10:10 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jay Wellwood
Never say die - good job Jerry.
Now I hope there actually are no leaks since I was never actually evacuating the system.