RajDatta

All that little screw does is hold the wire at a certain angle. The white wire microswitch part has clips on each end and it will pop off the handle bar (gently pry it off). The screw is there to install the metal cover that routes the wire.

rhkwon

That's what I though originally. It's a clamp that directs the wire downward. So I guess I'll take a small flat tipped screwdriver and pry underneath the microswitch part and lift it up?

RajDatta

That is correct. Just don't break the tab. Be very gentle. The wire is an easy $75.

rhkwon

OK finally have some warm clear weather and some time so I finally removed the complete door handle from the car. I'm now trying to disassemble the various door handle parts and have gotten all new parts. I'm trying to replace everything except the lock cylinder so that I never have to mess with this thing again.

I'm trying to remove the actuating lever (1) and in order to do so I will need to remove the pin (2) and the pin for the reverse lever (3). I guess I just use a punch to hammer the two pins out? I tried punching them out but they are on very tight. Any tricks?

After the actuating lever is loose, I still need to undo and remove the lock cylinder so that the actuating lever can be removed because the lock cylinder is to big for the actuating lever to fit through and out. Anyone know how to remove the lock cylinder from the handle? I tried to undo the screw (4) but all it does is loosen the driver. The parts manual also shows a micro head self locking screw and indicates the rosette (5) can be removed but not sure how to do this.

biosurfer1

You just drive the pin out, mine was tight too but that's a good thing, no slop. If I remember correctly, you can only drive it out in one direction since it was pressed in originally and then the end is smashed to keep it in there. From you picture you can see how that end of the pin looks mushroomed so I think it needs to come out that direction.

I used the new pin and a vice to press out the old one.

rhkwon

Got the #1 pin out. The smaller pin is almost impossible. I'm trying to punch it out but it gives only a tiny bit. Any ideas?

RajDatta

We cut the smaller pin with a dremel in the middle and then pried it off.

biosurfer1

unfortunately that is the piece that was broken on mine and the pin just fell out, so I won't be much help on how to get it out.

rhkwon

This worked perfectly! Although the reverse lever looked great, after just a little bending back and forth, it broke off at the attachment point, which means it was old and time for replacement. First I broke off the main dog leg part of the reverse lever which left just the attachment hole secured by the pin. I took some needle pliers to get as much space and access in between the pin as possible. Bits of the attachment will break off which is a good thing. Once most of the attachment hole part is broken off, a dremel can have the necessary clearance to the pin and then dremel it off and use pliers to pull out the pin.

I tried and tried to punch and hammer the pin out but it would only go so far and I could not get it out. Be careful about punching the pin too hard because it can bend the mounting hole. If this happens the alignment of the reverse lever will be off but you can bend it back.

rhkwon

Then the next step is to unscrew the Philips screw that is marked by an * in the picture, which will allow the rosette from the outside part of the handle to be removed. Then unscrew the philips screw from the lock cylinder (previous pic marked "4") and the top pieces can be removed and will also allow the lock cylinder to be removed.

The problem I am now am having is removing the lock body (circled in red) from the handle. The old actuating lever cannot come out without the lock body removed. Anyone know how to remove the lock body? It seems like it should just slide out but I don't want to break anything. I've already bent and gouged too many things already.

You can see why I want to change the actuating lever as the area circled in blue has worn down some. This is the area that moves the reverse lever up and down. I suspect this is what is causing the normally smooth action to be very rough.

JimV8

Locks and actuating devices are fool proof and simple, but sensitive to gumming and that ends up with forcing and thats bad. WD40 is pretty good at loosening stuff and hopefully before a lot of force has bent or broken stuff.

rhkwon

So spray some WD and push/pull it out?

Bluvair

Hello,
I am new to this forum and I have recently had the door locks on my 968 become more difficult to use and the passenger unit no longer opens the door at all. I backed out both units and cleaned them fairly well and lubed them and reinstalled them. They were pretty crusty and the driver's unit works better.
The passenger unit felt better but it still does not open the door. I removed the latch and I could see that the piece that moves the arm that releases the latch does not move far enough to unlock the door. The piece that does not move far enough is actuated by the door trigger but I do not know the linkage
that causes it to move. I would have thought that the dirty lock handle could have been the restriction but it was not. Having read the posts I did not see anyone address this particular issue unless I read too quickly. Can anyone tell me what is causing this and what I should do next? I know what a pain
these handles can be but I do not want to get locked out of my car so I will do what I need to. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated even if it means complete disassembly.
Thank you very much.
Bluvair aka Dwight Anderson
94 Coupe