Can I force-feed Sydneymans NA?
#77
If the radiator is out, you can find this location from the bottom. If you have all that in, like I did, we were planning on venting the intercooler, so we made a hole in the hood.
This was my process: Deal is, I want to hang the latch striker first. There are little louvers on the inside of the hood rail. Grind an m10 bolt head down until it's a 180 slot. Slip it in the louvers, line up where I want stuff to go and make some reference marks. If it's about close put a few small tacks where you want it to stay. Then i can estimate the bottom from there and have a wider hole to do fine adjustment.
The cables, well, that's something equally challenging. Initially the setup was painless for 3 months or so. My setup is now not as easy to pull, tends to break cable stays in the cabin. I might have to get new latches soon, or weaken the spring.
This was my process: Deal is, I want to hang the latch striker first. There are little louvers on the inside of the hood rail. Grind an m10 bolt head down until it's a 180 slot. Slip it in the louvers, line up where I want stuff to go and make some reference marks. If it's about close put a few small tacks where you want it to stay. Then i can estimate the bottom from there and have a wider hole to do fine adjustment.
The cables, well, that's something equally challenging. Initially the setup was painless for 3 months or so. My setup is now not as easy to pull, tends to break cable stays in the cabin. I might have to get new latches soon, or weaken the spring.
#79
Examples from the "in-progress" part of this build. See the tape in the back? WE did glue the latch in place once to rough it in, I forgot about that part when I wrote the response last night. That should help you sort how to rough estimate the location.
I should also mention that we really reinforced the back of the hood latch on the inside of the headlight well. Welded a 1/8" backing plate behind there, facing the headlight.
I should also mention that we really reinforced the back of the hood latch on the inside of the headlight well. Welded a 1/8" backing plate behind there, facing the headlight.
#81
Had a good follow up today on the car. My tags more or less expired two weeks ago and I needed to go through emissions. My city, Portland OR, is a bit on the left and has a perspective on clean and green regs... But I digress.
So we needed a catalyzed exhaust. I held on to the 951 exhaust, and an hour later, a local muffler shop had my stock 951 cat and muffler done with a 951 tip back on her. Two small bends added to the muffler section set it all up.
Got home and changed the fuel pressure regulator from the 3.0 to 2.5 bar, set the APE fuel trim to stock resistance and took the idle down to 850. Drove to emissions test and she passed.
Beyond passed... HC was 17ppm (OR standard is 200, so not that high of a requirement, actually), CO was .06% (1). It's far better than my newer Tdi Passat, anyway. I'm proud to see that using a backdated engine running an obsolete MAF can be so flexible.
Alright, so point is, if Oregon can tolerate a 951 powered 968, with an obsolete tune, I guess lots of places will. Perhaps even California. Just keep that old 951 kitty cat.
So we needed a catalyzed exhaust. I held on to the 951 exhaust, and an hour later, a local muffler shop had my stock 951 cat and muffler done with a 951 tip back on her. Two small bends added to the muffler section set it all up.
Got home and changed the fuel pressure regulator from the 3.0 to 2.5 bar, set the APE fuel trim to stock resistance and took the idle down to 850. Drove to emissions test and she passed.
Beyond passed... HC was 17ppm (OR standard is 200, so not that high of a requirement, actually), CO was .06% (1). It's far better than my newer Tdi Passat, anyway. I'm proud to see that using a backdated engine running an obsolete MAF can be so flexible.
Alright, so point is, if Oregon can tolerate a 951 powered 968, with an obsolete tune, I guess lots of places will. Perhaps even California. Just keep that old 951 kitty cat.