Headlight fixes,elec dwgs,assy,part#s,factoryadjust,pics w/wo fender,bumper,tons INFO
12-27-2011, 02:18 PM
#1
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Headlight fixes,elec dwgs,assy,part#s,factoryadjust,pics w/wo fender,bumper,tons INFO
So here is the Skinny on the headlight operations from the mechanical and the electrical side of things. For general purposes please excuse the thread size. I thought it could serve as a one stop shop for light issues. For the pics and assys I used my black 92 cab, the silver 93 coupe and the 94 cab. All three cars were the same and operated the same.
Start with Electrical. – The wiring diagram is attached for those who may dig deeper. The relay locations are combed G17 and G18. part number 944-618-205-00 It is the big black one in the pic. It controls up and down.
Pretty straight forward, For electrical suspects the following mechanical checks will help determine the issues for lights that do not go up and down or just have issues going down.
Take a look at the factory drawing. For discussion I will call some things that may or may not be factory speak.
The Swivel frame or hinge is part 1 and is 944.750.073.01L and 944.750.074.01 R,
Part 13 is what I am calling the emergency locking pin.
Part 2 Drive Arm locking wheel 928.750.079.02 with part 3 the spring for it 928.750.291.02
The rest is pretty self evident, note that the hinge operates in 2 places independent or each other but operate together when the locking wheel on the drive arm is latched the light support arm of the hinge. This will make sense with more pics.
Quick mini summary. On operation
Key on- turn on lights motor rotates and is attached to the drive arm pushing the light up and against an adjustable hard stop. This is also the emergency latch pin, it serves 2 functions. It is the operations hard stop for up- only to limit vibration when up not to restrict travel. Very important. This will be covered below in the factory adjustments.
Turn off the motor rotates and the control arm lowers bringing the headlight hinge with it. They are under normal operating attached via a locking wheel which has a spring.
Some pics.
Outline are mounting points for the hinge assy to the light bucket, only 3 bolts. In the down position on the bench.
This pic shows the light in an up position manually. The drive arm is in the down position. the blue is where the light assy bolts to the hinge. The red is where the hinge bolts to the light bucket in the fender.
The empty bucket where the hinge bolts. A shot with the fender off, the light in the down and the up. Note the emergency locking pin has been pulled and this is what it looks like inside your fender with the light being held up by it.
How to pull the emergency latch- it is under the front motor cover , unsnap it and under is the emergency latch pin, it pulls in and out. It does not rotate. To get the light up far enough to snap the pin in place you will have to separate the drive arm hinge from the light assy mount hinge. This is done by simply pulling in the upward motion. It is on a wheel and a spring. It is designed this way. You can pull them up from full down or from full up. The hinge has another 2 inched or so travel beyond full up. To get the light in this position you must pull the emergency lath pin towards the center of the car and then raise the light beyond the pin. Release the pin and it will stay in position.
Pics will help the pin location
With the cover off and the light pulled up by hand to the hard stop position
Pull the pin and lift the light beyond the hard stop and release the pin. It will stay in the emergency up locked opposition.
Note the gap this creates. I can adjust and repair the motor, attachments and potentially spray lube on the hinge. _ very small WD40 can. So as in the pic below. The light is locked up with the lights off and the drive arm in the full down position.
If you lights stick, vibrate or do not go down inspect the lock wheel and spring. If the hinge is dirty and does not fall down with gravity with the drive arm disconnected it is hinge dirt. If it does but with slight help the spring on the wheel may be week or the wheel no function correctly. It snaps the drive arm to the light hinge arm. In my cars the 2 newer cars snapped the 92 was weak but since the hinge has good play worked fine.
At this point with the light in full emergency locked up position you can operate the lights to check and see if the motor, relays etc are working properly. It can move freely with out hitting.
Light locked up- drive arm in the up- Lights ON position
This is how I adjust my lights. There is enough room to reach in, remove the dust cove off the motor and turn it to adjust.
Many say this is how you put up a broken light in an emergency, you can but I disagree. It is much easier to pull up and lock. BUT if you are traveling far and the beam it too low you can adjust it to the full up position and drop the light back on the drive arm for position. Pics of the drive arm, the locking wheel and it’s range. The motor adjustment is in the top under the dust cover- white ****. It only has 3 bolts mounting it all accessible through the locked up gap.
Drive arm locking wheel and latch point in the light assy hinge. Note the spring
Lastly here are the attachment points for the entire hinge assy. It is accessed through the fog light gap in the bumper support. These pics show nicely where the hinge pt site under the fender and behind the bumper. I feel you can drill access holes knowing where the bolts are to avoid removing the front bumper but have not tried it yet.
Lastly here is what the factory has to share on adjustments .
Hope this helps. There are more pics in an album I have open to the public. Look at all the photos and it will make sense. Pardon the grammar- I will read later and edit if need be- comments and insight welcomed……
Merry Christmas all. Hope everyone had a good one.
Cheers, Mike
Start with Electrical. – The wiring diagram is attached for those who may dig deeper. The relay locations are combed G17 and G18. part number 944-618-205-00 It is the big black one in the pic. It controls up and down.
Pretty straight forward, For electrical suspects the following mechanical checks will help determine the issues for lights that do not go up and down or just have issues going down.
Take a look at the factory drawing. For discussion I will call some things that may or may not be factory speak.
The Swivel frame or hinge is part 1 and is 944.750.073.01L and 944.750.074.01 R,
Part 13 is what I am calling the emergency locking pin.
Part 2 Drive Arm locking wheel 928.750.079.02 with part 3 the spring for it 928.750.291.02
The rest is pretty self evident, note that the hinge operates in 2 places independent or each other but operate together when the locking wheel on the drive arm is latched the light support arm of the hinge. This will make sense with more pics.
Quick mini summary. On operation
Key on- turn on lights motor rotates and is attached to the drive arm pushing the light up and against an adjustable hard stop. This is also the emergency latch pin, it serves 2 functions. It is the operations hard stop for up- only to limit vibration when up not to restrict travel. Very important. This will be covered below in the factory adjustments.
Turn off the motor rotates and the control arm lowers bringing the headlight hinge with it. They are under normal operating attached via a locking wheel which has a spring.
Some pics.
Outline are mounting points for the hinge assy to the light bucket, only 3 bolts. In the down position on the bench.
This pic shows the light in an up position manually. The drive arm is in the down position. the blue is where the light assy bolts to the hinge. The red is where the hinge bolts to the light bucket in the fender.
The empty bucket where the hinge bolts. A shot with the fender off, the light in the down and the up. Note the emergency locking pin has been pulled and this is what it looks like inside your fender with the light being held up by it.
How to pull the emergency latch- it is under the front motor cover , unsnap it and under is the emergency latch pin, it pulls in and out. It does not rotate. To get the light up far enough to snap the pin in place you will have to separate the drive arm hinge from the light assy mount hinge. This is done by simply pulling in the upward motion. It is on a wheel and a spring. It is designed this way. You can pull them up from full down or from full up. The hinge has another 2 inched or so travel beyond full up. To get the light in this position you must pull the emergency lath pin towards the center of the car and then raise the light beyond the pin. Release the pin and it will stay in position.
Pics will help the pin location
With the cover off and the light pulled up by hand to the hard stop position
Pull the pin and lift the light beyond the hard stop and release the pin. It will stay in the emergency up locked opposition.
Note the gap this creates. I can adjust and repair the motor, attachments and potentially spray lube on the hinge. _ very small WD40 can. So as in the pic below. The light is locked up with the lights off and the drive arm in the full down position.
If you lights stick, vibrate or do not go down inspect the lock wheel and spring. If the hinge is dirty and does not fall down with gravity with the drive arm disconnected it is hinge dirt. If it does but with slight help the spring on the wheel may be week or the wheel no function correctly. It snaps the drive arm to the light hinge arm. In my cars the 2 newer cars snapped the 92 was weak but since the hinge has good play worked fine.
At this point with the light in full emergency locked up position you can operate the lights to check and see if the motor, relays etc are working properly. It can move freely with out hitting.
Light locked up- drive arm in the up- Lights ON position
This is how I adjust my lights. There is enough room to reach in, remove the dust cove off the motor and turn it to adjust.
Many say this is how you put up a broken light in an emergency, you can but I disagree. It is much easier to pull up and lock. BUT if you are traveling far and the beam it too low you can adjust it to the full up position and drop the light back on the drive arm for position. Pics of the drive arm, the locking wheel and it’s range. The motor adjustment is in the top under the dust cover- white ****. It only has 3 bolts mounting it all accessible through the locked up gap.
Drive arm locking wheel and latch point in the light assy hinge. Note the spring
Lastly here are the attachment points for the entire hinge assy. It is accessed through the fog light gap in the bumper support. These pics show nicely where the hinge pt site under the fender and behind the bumper. I feel you can drill access holes knowing where the bolts are to avoid removing the front bumper but have not tried it yet.
Lastly here is what the factory has to share on adjustments .
Hope this helps. There are more pics in an album I have open to the public. Look at all the photos and it will make sense. Pardon the grammar- I will read later and edit if need be- comments and insight welcomed……
Merry Christmas all. Hope everyone had a good one.
Cheers, Mike
Last edited by notthd; 04-04-2012 at 09:23 AM.
12-27-2011, 03:51 PM
#2
Dude, that is awesome! Great write up!
12-27-2011, 09:36 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Georgia, RETIRED USAF GO BLUE
Posts: 1,309
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"FANTASTIC"!!! This DIY is outstanding and should be placed in the DIY Section. I thank you for helping me, in simple terms that I can fully understand.
Happy New Year
Larry
Happy New Year
Larry
12-28-2011, 11:46 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Great stuff. Mike, would you mind adding a DIY to the begining of thread. Also, we should get admins to make this a sticky. The way things are setup, it is very hard to set up DIY's.
Last edited by RajDatta; 01-12-2012 at 09:04 PM.
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12-28-2011, 09:38 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Yeah, never owned a 911R. Just a coincidence. It is a very common name, where I come from.
01-12-2012, 06:06 PM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix and Forest Virginia
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I was working on stuff when a sticky headlight phone call came in. I had several in differnt stages and felt I should post
I do have all of these parts FS- PMs sent
Cheers, Mike
I do have all of these parts FS- PMs sent
Cheers, Mike
01-13-2012, 02:26 PM
#15
If, for some reason, the mods here can't or don't want to create DIY for us, I can allocate a space on KCWS for a 968 DIY archive if anyone thinks that might help. Just let me know.
And yeah, 993's are great looking cars.
Regards,
And yeah, 993's are great looking cars.
Regards,