Took delivery today
11-25-2016, 10:59 PM
#47
Trucker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
^As TT Surgeon said...
I was told a long time ago that the minimum (overlapping) thread engagement needed to be at least the width of the bolt. So I don't know how much overlap you will get with these lugs and wheels, but you will be backing out 7mm. (If it were me, I would FOR SURE get longer ones...safety first.) Further, make sure that threads are super clean so that as you torque the nuts are you not wasting the torque overcoming thread friction.
For reference, when I ordered wifey's 2010 Cayenne GTS I did not order the 5mm factory spacer. Later when I upgraded to the factory 5mm spacers I learned about the longer 5mm lug bolts. (Sorry for my lengthy blaah blaah)
I was told a long time ago that the minimum (overlapping) thread engagement needed to be at least the width of the bolt. So I don't know how much overlap you will get with these lugs and wheels, but you will be backing out 7mm. (If it were me, I would FOR SURE get longer ones...safety first.) Further, make sure that threads are super clean so that as you torque the nuts are you not wasting the torque overcoming thread friction.
For reference, when I ordered wifey's 2010 Cayenne GTS I did not order the 5mm factory spacer. Later when I upgraded to the factory 5mm spacers I learned about the longer 5mm lug bolts. (Sorry for my lengthy blaah blaah)
11-26-2016, 12:31 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is how I did it too.
I ended up at 13 mm up front, which necessitated longer studs (easy to install, btw).
When I increased the tire size up front I dropped back to 6 or 7 (have to check).
Maybe I'll screw around with 3's in the rear in spring but they are line-on-line with the wheelwell so I'm not sure what I'll gain.
I ended up at 13 mm up front, which necessitated longer studs (easy to install, btw).
When I increased the tire size up front I dropped back to 6 or 7 (have to check).
Maybe I'll screw around with 3's in the rear in spring but they are line-on-line with the wheelwell so I'm not sure what I'll gain.
^As TT Surgeon said...
I was told a long time ago that the minimum (overlapping) thread engagement needed to be at least the width of the bolt. So I don't know how much overlap you will get with these lugs and wheels, but you will be backing out 7mm. (If it were me, I would FOR SURE get longer ones...safety first.) Further, make sure that threads are super clean so that as you torque the nuts are you not wasting the torque overcoming thread friction.
For reference, when I ordered wifey's 2010 Cayenne GTS I did not order the 5mm factory spacer. Later when I upgraded to the factory 5mm spacers I learned about the longer 5mm lug bolts. (Sorry for my lengthy blaah blaah)
I was told a long time ago that the minimum (overlapping) thread engagement needed to be at least the width of the bolt. So I don't know how much overlap you will get with these lugs and wheels, but you will be backing out 7mm. (If it were me, I would FOR SURE get longer ones...safety first.) Further, make sure that threads are super clean so that as you torque the nuts are you not wasting the torque overcoming thread friction.
For reference, when I ordered wifey's 2010 Cayenne GTS I did not order the 5mm factory spacer. Later when I upgraded to the factory 5mm spacers I learned about the longer 5mm lug bolts. (Sorry for my lengthy blaah blaah)
11-26-2016, 10:07 AM
#49
Rennlist Member
(1) Wheels off. Calipers can stay on.
(2) Put a steel lug nut on the end of a stud such that any impact won't damage the end of the stud (you can save the old studs like this if you are an obsessive originality type
). Strike with a hammer until the splined portion near the base of the stud clears the hole in the hub . Remove all studs in this manner.(3) Put a new stud in. As you place it in the hole, rotate it until you feel the splines on the stud engage the splines in the hole (this is critical as you don't want to damage the splines in the hub ($$$)).
(4) Run a steel lug nut down as far as it can go by hand. When it bottoms, use a spanner wrench to turn the nut. This will pull the knurled portion of the stud into the flange hole. Check periodically as you wrench to see the base of the stud bottom out (you should feel it bottom out too but first timers should be visually checking as well).
(5) Rinse & repeat.
11-27-2016, 05:40 PM
#50
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well that was tedious. OEM centercaps were slightly too big and tall for the RH's. Spent a portion of the afternoon knocking three of the four of them with a Dremel (one actually fit without modification).
11-27-2016, 07:27 PM
#51
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fantastic!
Great purchase.
The 3.3 964 Turbo is a really fun car for the money in "turbo" world.
Black on Black is epic.
I have a 55k mile 964 turbo and I have been gong through it.
The pollution junk is now removed and in a box. Engine has new gaskets.
Stock exhaust is in a box with a new exhaust on the car which sounds great.
I have rebuilt steering rack and new steering shaft.
Im going to stick on a set of big red calipers up front from my parts stash.
I have a set of RH wheels for the car and realized why they look odd.
The are missing the center caps! Thanks for the inspiration!
I too will install lowering springs to get the stance i want.
New shocks too.
(I decided to pass on buying coil overs for a car that rarely sees street, let alone track.)
It is amazing how civil and practical these cars can be!
Great purchase.
The 3.3 964 Turbo is a really fun car for the money in "turbo" world.
Black on Black is epic.
I have a 55k mile 964 turbo and I have been gong through it.
The pollution junk is now removed and in a box. Engine has new gaskets.
Stock exhaust is in a box with a new exhaust on the car which sounds great.
I have rebuilt steering rack and new steering shaft.
Im going to stick on a set of big red calipers up front from my parts stash.
I have a set of RH wheels for the car and realized why they look odd.
The are missing the center caps! Thanks for the inspiration!
I too will install lowering springs to get the stance i want.
New shocks too.
(I decided to pass on buying coil overs for a car that rarely sees street, let alone track.)
It is amazing how civil and practical these cars can be!
11-28-2016, 12:31 AM
#52
Banned
RUF used 7mm's a lot, I Think rule is 6 to 7 FULL turns on Nuts to be Safe...
I Have a Lot of Tire & Wheel (11's & 13's on 335's & 255's) I use Ti lugs no spacers Though.
The Ti lugs are for sale here somewhere, Very nice & Finally priced right $250ish
I Have a Lot of Tire & Wheel (11's & 13's on 335's & 255's) I use Ti lugs no spacers Though.
The Ti lugs are for sale here somewhere, Very nice & Finally priced right $250ish
11-28-2016, 09:51 AM
#54
Rennlist Member
The hub centering supplied by the hubs is only 7mm. Ruf used hub centric spacers at 7mm. I recommend only using hub centering spacers and anything above 7mm should have longer studs installed.
11-28-2016, 10:44 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's pretty straightforward. From memory:
(1) Wheels off. Calipers can stay on.
(2) Put a steel lug nut on the end of a stud such that any impact won't damage the end of the stud (you can save the old studs like this if you are an obsessive originality type). Strike with a hammer until the splined portion near the base of the stud clears the hole in the hub . Remove all studs in this manner.
(3) Put a new stud in. As you place it in the hole, rotate it until you feel the splines on the stud engage the splines in the hole (this is critical as you don't want to damage the splines in the hub ($$$)).
(4) Run a steel lug nut down as far as it can go by hand. When it bottoms, use a spanner wrench to turn the nut. This will pull the knurled portion of the stud into the flange hole. Check periodically as you wrench to see the base of the stud bottom out (you should feel it bottom out too but first timers should be visually checking as well).
(5) Rinse & repeat.
(1) Wheels off. Calipers can stay on.
(2) Put a steel lug nut on the end of a stud such that any impact won't damage the end of the stud (you can save the old studs like this if you are an obsessive originality type
). Strike with a hammer until the splined portion near the base of the stud clears the hole in the hub . Remove all studs in this manner.(3) Put a new stud in. As you place it in the hole, rotate it until you feel the splines on the stud engage the splines in the hole (this is critical as you don't want to damage the splines in the hub ($$$)).
(4) Run a steel lug nut down as far as it can go by hand. When it bottoms, use a spanner wrench to turn the nut. This will pull the knurled portion of the stud into the flange hole. Check periodically as you wrench to see the base of the stud bottom out (you should feel it bottom out too but first timers should be visually checking as well).
(5) Rinse & repeat.
If I run a 7 or 10mm up front, should a 52mm stud be sufficient? Can those still use the same lug nuts?
11-28-2016, 11:53 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
Congrats Bonehead on the nicely chosen center caps & getting them to pop in & stay tight. I've seen others say that once they dremeled theirs, they spun a bit (for those who like to have them positioned in relation to the valve stem this can be important to them,.. although from your picture, it doesn't appear you are concerned with that. Looks GREAT!!). My '91 964T COA shows that it was ordered with the Crests center caps, so that's what I run. Actually, the experts may tell me that the "Turbo" center cap only came into existence with the 3.6, so if memory serves it was never an option on the 3.3's). anyway....
Congrats also to you tcsracing1, for making such great progress!! Wow, that's a lot of work. Would have taken me years to finish that list. Once you get the suspension to your liking, pls post a pic on the sticky thread!!
And finally.... Bonehead,... based on your post # 21, you went with RH36 rims. Same size & ET config as mine.
Regarding your FRONTS:
I'm VERY interested to hear if the 7mm or 10mm spacers you run up front give you the tight-to-lip look you want (& how close they are). I am in the same boat. I want to move mine out just a tad (& hopefully eliminate the slight rub on the inside wheelwell when I am fully turned to one side - usually backing in-&-out of my driveway). I am using a 225/40ZR18 S04 Potenza tire up front, and I do have some room out to the lip which I feel will look better (especially in relationship to my rears which are tighter than a $*%^) if I push the front tire out & snug it up a bit. I am going to first try 2mm up front & see how they look....
ER hub centric Part #: ER-2380102 - 1 pair $25 (easy on the wallet option just to test it out)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item11
OR, if I thought it could possibly handle up to 5mm on each side, I could spend an extra measly $40 & get a kit - Part #: ER-23801ATK5 for $65, and get qty4 2mm & qty2 1mm shims.
So I am definitely interested in hearing how your 7 - 10mm works out.
EDIT: I just went back & re-read this whole thread - I'll take the advice given by Igooz & put some washers on my fronts & measure / see how it looks/works (eliminates inner rubbing), before ordering. Thnx!! - I promise I will NOT drive it w/ washers! ;-)
=Steve
Congrats also to you tcsracing1, for making such great progress!! Wow, that's a lot of work. Would have taken me years to finish that list. Once you get the suspension to your liking, pls post a pic on the sticky thread!!
And finally.... Bonehead,... based on your post # 21, you went with RH36 rims. Same size & ET config as mine.
Regarding your FRONTS:
I'm VERY interested to hear if the 7mm or 10mm spacers you run up front give you the tight-to-lip look you want (& how close they are). I am in the same boat. I want to move mine out just a tad (& hopefully eliminate the slight rub on the inside wheelwell when I am fully turned to one side - usually backing in-&-out of my driveway). I am using a 225/40ZR18 S04 Potenza tire up front, and I do have some room out to the lip which I feel will look better (especially in relationship to my rears which are tighter than a $*%^) if I push the front tire out & snug it up a bit. I am going to first try 2mm up front & see how they look....
ER hub centric Part #: ER-2380102 - 1 pair $25 (easy on the wallet option just to test it out)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item11
OR, if I thought it could possibly handle up to 5mm on each side, I could spend an extra measly $40 & get a kit - Part #: ER-23801ATK5 for $65, and get qty4 2mm & qty2 1mm shims.
So I am definitely interested in hearing how your 7 - 10mm works out.
EDIT: I just went back & re-read this whole thread - I'll take the advice given by Igooz & put some washers on my fronts & measure / see how it looks/works (eliminates inner rubbing), before ordering. Thnx!! - I promise I will NOT drive it w/ washers! ;-)
=Steve
Last edited by bweSteve; 11-28-2016 at 12:35 PM.