Doms964TurboII

Ive put a RUF 0.9 bar spring into mine and now the clutch slips in 1,2,3 on full boost. Is it that the cluch is knackerd or that the power is now too much? (its the only mod bar a cat bypass)
Could it be the LSD at all? (its quite noisey when on full lock/parking now) but it does feel like the clutch is slipping, but i dont know what LSDs do on the way out.

Also does anyone know how many hours it takes to change a clutch (I presume the engine has to come out)

Is it worth putting in a lightwieght flywheel at the same time?

And finally, any recomendations for uprated cluches?

Many thanks

urquattro20Vt

Sounds like your clutch is gone - rather than insufficient. Assuming stock headers - I'm thinking with cat bypass and 1 Bar spring power is only about 350 crank (maybe I'm wrong??) - can't imagine stock couldn't handle that little extra bit...actually whatever is - it can.

My car has 1 Bar spring and cat bypass - clutch works just fine.

Doms964TurboII

Thanks
Im hoping it might me a master/slave issue seal!
The cars only done 63k and Ive had it for over 20k and I always pull away at tickover.

MeanMachine

Change the clutch, the clutch should not slip with that amount of power.

ralt

63 k is a little early for the clutch BUT....its the clutch! Be sure and get the right one for replacement. Get the lfw rs clutch combo. It is strong as an ox and it doesnt rattle dispite comments that it does. They are worth the money. The motor will spin faster but not as much as you might think. It will take all the hp you can give it

Black_Hat

I would get a pressure plate with more clamping force along with a LWFW , new disc , T/O bearing , rear main seal

I like Ralt have the RS disc and a GT-2 sachs PP and no slip , no chatter/ rattle

Metal Guru

I have this set-up and I can also verify that it doesn't make noise or chatter. However, clutch action is heavy and combined with the LWFW, calls for a little bit of finesse when engaging. It's NOT the ideal set-up for stop-and-go traffic.
I would go one step up in PP clamping force on a car with a stock engine but with the boost increased.

xilly

exactly the same experience as metal guru
same setup and clutch is quite heavy

I never drove a OE clutch so I can't compare

William

Metal Guru

Stock clutch is downright pleasant compared to the GT2.
I am working on a solution

Doms964TurboII

Think I'm going to fit a Sachs clutch on a standard flywheel as I heard elsewhere that the tickover needs refueling and a timing pin doesn't have the correct clearance? Or something.
I've also got a deal on a brand new Sachs clutch for £108!
I'm wondering how long the LUK flywheel will last now. It's a 92/3 car

Metal Guru

If you are using a stock dual mass flywheel the sensor will read the dogs on the flywheel no problem. The pressure plate isn't involved. The sensor will work with a Raush & Speigel or Patrick lightweight flywheel with no changes also.
I changed my dual mass for a lightweight but I would replace it at 70-80k miles just because I wouldn't want to drop the engine again.

Doms964TurboII

Thanks very much for the info

Steven C.

Go stock for sure. RUF/now RAC in Dallas always puts the stock set up in their modified cars under maybe 550hp. I have a new stock in 420hp car, no issues and easy pedal.