jimq

I am trying to replace the 2 CV boots on my C2. I took out the 6 bolts from the transmission and dropped it down. Took off the cover and removed the Circlip that holds it to the axle. Thats as far as I can get. It wont budge at all. Tried knocking it off with a rubber mallet and now have a large gear puller on it but wont budge. I am scared to crank on it much harder as I dont want to break something. I sprayed the crap out of it with PB Blaster so letting in sit under tension from the gear puller. Any suggestions?

wallra

you need to cut the boot off so you can hit on the part of the cv joint thats on the axle. I use a piece of brass. Righr now with that puller you have set up you'll pulling on the ***** in the joint could break the cage for the *****.

jimq

thanks i will give that a shot tomorrow after the PB blaster soaks in some
.

Spyerx

Its much easier to work on this pulling them from the car. You can remove the rest of it by removing the ~350 ft lb nut on the axle. Best to replace both boots at same time you don't want do this crappy job again. The outer boot slides on first as that outer CV doesn't disassemble in the same way.

Spokes

Agree. Undo the nut axle and do this on the bench. Change both CV boots & regrease. You are also risking all the ball bearings falling out while the axle is attached to the car. I know some do it this way, but this is a "messy' job. Take it to the bench, layout some paper, and work in a nicer environment.

S

jimq

Looks like I need to take off the axle nut. Now need to figure out how to do that. Will the shaft slide right out after doing that? Also is the nut normal or reverse thread? Finally got the valves adjusted and new lower valve covers on and a few other while in there projects done and still cant drive the car. Looks like another weekend spent working on it

gouyou

I did it last year, with a bit of effort. Did you remove the circlip #6?




Removing the axle, might be easier, but you need to have the correct breaker bar and torque wrench to put it back on.

wallra

the axles are normal thread. If you can't get them loose with a impact put the wheels back on and lower the car back down to loosen nuts.

jimq

yep removed the circlip. My neighbor has one of those good 900# or something like that impact wrench. I will try that this weekend. It looked like it had moved a bit over the circlip indent but thats all. I may give it one more shot on the car this evening after it sat over night soaked in PB blaster. When (or if) I get it off should I put anti seize on the threads before putting the CV joint back on? Its on my lift and i can sit on my stool while working on it so i am not laying on my back under jack stands at least.

Spokes

Jim,

I did this a couple of months ago. Removing axle nut is straight forward you just need a long extension & 22mm socket. You will need a torque wrench to tighten the axle nut back up to 460NM. The axle will pull out once the nut is removed. The handbrake should hold while you undo the axle nut. It did for me.

gouyou

I had to persuade the boot #11 to separate from the joint #13 with a piece of wood and a mallet, but after that it was relatively easy.

Anyway, the whole procedure was documented by cowtown over on the pelican parts forums here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...servicing.html

LouZ

Whether I'm removing the (6) bolts on the inner CV or the 22mm nut, I just insert a screwdriver into one of the rotor vent holes between the insides of the caliper, then rotate till it binds against the caliper. In my instance, that outer nut is so hard to remove that the handbrake wouldn't hold, and I've rotated the tire while it was on the ground!

....Also, I replaced both boots last fall and used a gear puller to free the CV from the axle (identical to your photo)

YMMV!

AVI_8

Hi Jim,
I've dealt with the same problem before.
Mine wasn't coming out without a fight, tried bearing puller and it snapped one of the arms off, tried heat and a drift, didn't work, eventually after using many tools and brute force was left with only the inner splined race attached, careful use of an angle grinder soon removed the ******, being careful not to damage the shaft.
I thought heat would have removed it but no way it seemed as though it was welded.
So it seems as though you've two options, remove the shaft put it in a strong vice and whack it off or do what I did with the shaft in place and an angle grinder.
Good luck!

-nick

Yikes! You need to remove the outer, bearing cage, and ball bearings first. Then use a simple puller. Pulling against the assembled cv is going to do damage. It is easier to pull the axle out, but not impossible to replace the boots in situ. Be sure to use genuine boots, the aftermarket versions don't last.

Some photos on this site, note the correct puller- http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=page&id=10

John McM

I'm fast coming to the same conclusion. With 8 boots per car it's hard to keep track of what's been replaced when but i suspect it's false economy fitting the lesser quality ones.