removing CV joint
#16
Rennlist Member
I have found that prior to removing the circlip If you place a large socket over the shaft and pound the CV joint hard a couple of times with a heavy mallet. It makes it easier to remove the circlip and at the same time loosens the cv joint from the splines making it slide off much easier.
#17
Burgled
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Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Success!! Finally got the darn thing off. Ended up using the gear puller and my impact wrench set on low. There was just enough banging vibration and slow turning of the gear puller screw that it finally broke free. Once it got started it slid right off. Dont see anything bent or broken so tomorrow i will clean it up, replace the boots and get it back on the road. Just hoping it goes back on easier than it came off!
Shocked that my cheap Harbor Freight gear puller I bought to do my shocks years ago worked like a champ and didnt bend or break.
Shocked that my cheap Harbor Freight gear puller I bought to do my shocks years ago worked like a champ and didnt bend or break.
Last edited by jimq; 03-22-2017 at 06:51 PM.
#18
Rennlist Member
#20
Addict
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Rennlist Member
As I noted earlier, I used the gear puller to get mine off. After installing the 2 new boots, I greased the CV, then "tapped" it on by putting a large socket (bigger than the shaft) on the CV till the circlip groove was aligned.
#24
Burgled
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Thread Starter
Got the car back together yesterday and back on the road. No strange noises The boots and CV joint went on with little problems. Used a large socket to knock the CV joint back on and it went without a lot of resistance. Cleaned and greased the CV. I wire brushed the splines and put a little anti seize on them. I dont see how you guys do this job on jack stands! I think I could do the other side a lot quicker now that I know whats involved. I figure it will take a couple of months to get the last of the grease out of my finger nails
#25
Currently doing this on my 92 C2. The splines on the outboard drive shaft and the inner CV joint looked like they were sprayed with a light coat of copper anti-seize compound. The coating looked like it was done at the point of manufacturing. One light tap with a wooden block to remove the CV and the axle from the carrier. Will check the local parts stores to see if I can find some copper anti-seize to prevent issues like some experienced in this thread.