HalV

Cobalt, can you expand on this more? Is this due to preload on the bars? I was told that stock drop links would work fine with H&R sway bars.

cobalt

They may work with the H&R bars but not with the RS or TRG bars. I would verify that you don't need the RS style drop links with the H&R. I can't answer that for you.

crg53

I can verify that the stock drop links will work with the H&R bars. I mounted them in the softer (outside hole) setting front and rear. It's been a while, but I do remember I had to adjust the rear drop links, either I turned them 180 degree, or I swapped right to left and left to right, anyway they lined up perfectly.

mystert

That's what the point I was trying to make. 450lbs rear springs are in the 375-508lbs range of the RS springs, requiring something close to the 18mm bar. Most of the street spec springs are rated under 300lbs.


The H&R bar I ordered is on backorder from Germany til the end of March. UGH!

HalV

Thanks. This info is much appreciated. I have a set of H&R bars ready to go when I take my car out of winter hibernation.

no_car

instead of tarret drop links i ended up going with the elephant racing front droplinks and rear drop links on mine.. i figured since i lowered the car with H&R coilovers and added H&R sway bars the adjustable droplinks would help keep zero pre-load on the sway bars..


Front


Rear

cobalt

Wow I haven't been to their site in a long time. Things have changed. About the same price but different designs. These also eliminate the rubber in the drop links which makes a difference.

Nothing like fresh hardware. Looks great. Are you running camber plates as well? I was considering installing HD bushings I have a spare set of control arms and front suspension I was going to modify. Might get a bit stiff for the street though.

no_car

The front drop links has the "C" shape so it can be used for a c4 or c2 the C shape I guess is to clear the front driveshaft

No camber plates , just new stock mounts. The stock camber adjustment had enough for what I needed, yeah went a little overboard in getting new hardware and some old ones plated

I don't have a lot of seat Time yet but the car drives great on the street , I also replaced with polyurethane bushings on the front control arms and I like how the steering is more or precise than when I initially got the car

cobalt

If your looking for a more precise steering feel you might consider a 993 style steering rack brace and poly steering rack bushings. Another improvement but not as noticeable is using C4 front inner tie rods. They are the same rubber as used on the RS. Not sure why they used a softer rubber in the C2.

no_car

i was looking at a set of polyurethane steering rack bushing but i havent pulled thre trigger on it yet,,, good info to know about the inner tie rod ends, i just got new front outer tie rod ends as well as new ball joints... felt a big difference when i changed them.. thanks for all the info

there is so much info i need to learn and absorb

dmaddox

Apologies for digging up an old thread - but to continue the conversation around utilizing "stock" vs. "RS" sway bars on a 1993 C2.....My question to all of you is....if I am going through the trouble of rebuilding my front end, including brakes, bushings (monoballs), ball joints, etc.. and just am desiring a very crisp and solid street driving (spirited driving) experience - what do you think of the following options based on this discussion: (current setup, car is lowered with PSS10 suspension, nothing else)

a) Leave the stock sway bars on, replace bushings while in there - you can always stiffen up the PSS10's.
b) Leave the stock sway bars on, replace bushings and perhaps get adjustable drop links to remove preload.
c) With stiffer PSS10, run front and rear RS sway bars with new bushings and adjustable drop links - why not, you have it all apart.

I am leaning towards B - but curious what you all think on this one.

Happy Thanksgiving!