Where to buy 8:32 ring+pinion
#3
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#5
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#7
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#9
Nordschleife Master
The picture on the FVD site is an original Getrag set. If it really is, market price is what they are asking.
#10
They make decent gears (I make better ones. ) but I have seen durability issues with their r/p sets. If it's a racecar and you are ready to replace it every 50-60 hours maybe it will work for you. But don't expect oem durability of 80-100 hours out of one. Here in the States some drivers ed/track day guys have been quite disappointed with their lifespan after installing them.
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I have mailed abertweb and carnewal to check if they have something.
I am surprised that the offer is that small ( and hence the price that high...) considering the obvious benefit of doing this on a our excessively long geared cars...( I believe this was to claim top speed in the 90's as a selling point....)
#11
Nordschleife Master
The car has been out of production for 20 years. The last batch I know of Getrag making was a decade ago. That fvd unit appears to be old stock.
Until the last 5 years, unless people were racing them, the cars weren't worth enough for most people to justify spending $5-10k building a serious gearbox for them. I've always sold many lsds for them but I don't even make 5spd spec 3rd and 4th gears anymore. I make 6spd gears and sell a retrofit adapter bearing to put them in. These have gotten quite popular in the last 2 years as they have performance advantages over a ring and pinion and are easier to install.
Until the last 5 years, unless people were racing them, the cars weren't worth enough for most people to justify spending $5-10k building a serious gearbox for them. I've always sold many lsds for them but I don't even make 5spd spec 3rd and 4th gears anymore. I make 6spd gears and sell a retrofit adapter bearing to put them in. These have gotten quite popular in the last 2 years as they have performance advantages over a ring and pinion and are easier to install.
#12
My "problem" is that I find the original gearing far too long to enjoy the engine on mountain roads and due to speed limits....
#13
Not sure what you want to accomplish but here's a comparison of some 964 gearbox variations
personally I think having a top in the 160-170 range(see the top speed in gear rows) makes for a good dual purpose box, this allows reasonably relaxed cruise and reasonably spaced gearing, 6 of course w/ this spec makes for closer ratios than 5 as does having a bit taller 1 & 2.
stock engines don't really need ultra close gearing but the usual goal is to reduce the rpm drops from one gear to the next(see the split % rows), going to an 8:32 does nothing in that regard.
personally I think having a top in the 160-170 range(see the top speed in gear rows) makes for a good dual purpose box, this allows reasonably relaxed cruise and reasonably spaced gearing, 6 of course w/ this spec makes for closer ratios than 5 as does having a bit taller 1 & 2.
stock engines don't really need ultra close gearing but the usual goal is to reduce the rpm drops from one gear to the next(see the split % rows), going to an 8:32 does nothing in that regard.
#14
I have a G50/03 EU spec.
Indeed the best would be to have closer ratios but it is even bigger budget I think...
What I want to change is not really the rpm drop but to shorten over all gearing for better acceleration in 2nd and 3rd in twisty roads and track mainly.
Standard in 2nd in hairpins I find it slow to take off and in twisty roads, it is frustrating to use only 3rd on the full rpm range....
So I think shortening final drive is the "easy" one.....
Indeed the best would be to have closer ratios but it is even bigger budget I think...
What I want to change is not really the rpm drop but to shorten over all gearing for better acceleration in 2nd and 3rd in twisty roads and track mainly.
Standard in 2nd in hairpins I find it slow to take off and in twisty roads, it is frustrating to use only 3rd on the full rpm range....
So I think shortening final drive is the "easy" one.....
#15
I have a G50/03 EU spec.
Indeed the best would be to have closer ratios but it is even bigger budget I think...
What I want to change is not really the rpm drop but to shorten over all gearing for better acceleration in 2nd and 3rd in twisty roads and track mainly.
Standard in 2nd in hairpins I find it slow to take off and in twisty roads, it is frustrating to use only 3rd on the full rpm range....
So I think shortening final drive is the "easy" one.....
Indeed the best would be to have closer ratios but it is even bigger budget I think...
What I want to change is not really the rpm drop but to shorten over all gearing for better acceleration in 2nd and 3rd in twisty roads and track mainly.
Standard in 2nd in hairpins I find it slow to take off and in twisty roads, it is frustrating to use only 3rd on the full rpm range....
So I think shortening final drive is the "easy" one.....