Engine & gearbox mounts
09-21-2003, 06:23 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine & gearbox mounts
How easy is it to change the engine & transmission mounts (I have a tiptronic remember). I can feel the transmission 'clunking' a little on gearchanges and on/off throttle.
I've noticed that engine mounts aren't very expensive, so I'm wondering if it is a easy job.
Can anyone throw any light on the process (for both engine & transmission mounts)
Thanks
I've noticed that engine mounts aren't very expensive, so I'm wondering if it is a easy job.
Can anyone throw any light on the process (for both engine & transmission mounts)
Thanks
09-21-2003, 07:00 PM
#2
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine Mounts
To change the engine mounts (Rears) is quite simple. Check them against a set of new ones before changing them. If faulty the will have collapsed inside and will be longer allowing the engine to drop. To change over will take less than an hour for the pair. Re cost, I paid around 400 GBP for the pair.
09-22-2003, 05:54 AM
#4
Drifting
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
Posts: 2,689
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Why do you think the clunking is anything to do with mounts? Is the clunking on gear changes only? If clunking is just on throttle on/off, is it in all gears? You may find you will get a 'clunk' changing down to first, unless you have the power on, ie, if you are coating to a stop with no throttle, a 2nd to 1st change down will be a bit clunky. This clunk is not present for a shift down under power.
If you read the tiptronic diagnostic section of the workshop manual, you will see that most tip problems are either electronic control unit or hydraulic control unit problems. Make sure you have the correct amount of tip ATF fluid and that it is not too old (24k miles is the change I think).
If you read the tiptronic diagnostic section of the workshop manual, you will see that most tip problems are either electronic control unit or hydraulic control unit problems. Make sure you have the correct amount of tip ATF fluid and that it is not too old (24k miles is the change I think).
09-22-2003, 06:05 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by John Boggiano
Rob, as the mounts droop with age, I wonder if this might be visible if you compare the appearance of your engine with others.
Rob, as the mounts droop with age, I wonder if this might be visible if you compare the appearance of your engine with others.
09-22-2003, 06:11 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally posted by johnfm
Why do you think the clunking is anything to do with mounts? Is the clunking on gear changes only? If clunking is just on throttle on/off, is it in all gears? You may find you will get a 'clunk' changing down to first, unless you have the power on, ie, if you are coating to a stop with no throttle, a 2nd to 1st change down will be a bit clunky. This clunk is not present for a shift down under power.
If you read the tiptronic diagnostic section of the workshop manual, you will see that most tip problems are either electronic control unit or hydraulic control unit problems. Make sure you have the correct amount of tip ATF fluid and that it is not too old (24k miles is the change I think).
Why do you think the clunking is anything to do with mounts? Is the clunking on gear changes only? If clunking is just on throttle on/off, is it in all gears? You may find you will get a 'clunk' changing down to first, unless you have the power on, ie, if you are coating to a stop with no throttle, a 2nd to 1st change down will be a bit clunky. This clunk is not present for a shift down under power.
If you read the tiptronic diagnostic section of the workshop manual, you will see that most tip problems are either electronic control unit or hydraulic control unit problems. Make sure you have the correct amount of tip ATF fluid and that it is not too old (24k miles is the change I think).
The throttle on/off clunk is, I think, partly to do with the idle microswitch (see separate thread), but also will not be helped by 12 year old, 86000 mile engine & box mounts.
Other than that, gearchanges are OK. Until I saw the price, I was just going to do this from a routine maintenance perspective!
I had a full tip box service a couple of weeks ago, including the gearbox oil (every 96,000 miles?). I assume that the ATF level is correct!
I wouldn't mind a drive of another tip at some point to compare.
Trending Topics
09-22-2003, 06:24 AM
#8
Drifting
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds, where I have run into this many lamp
Posts: 2,689
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Rob
re: selecting gears from neutral, you get two clunks - do you use the manual gate, or go from neutral to either D or 3? I only use the manual gate, and virtually NEVER have the car in neutral. If I pull up to a stop I will just keep the car in first unless its a really long wait.
WHat sort of idle speed do you have?? You will get a clunk from neutral to a gear if you change with high revs, ie 1000 rpm or more. I idle at 800 rpm ish and never clunk. The clunking is covered in the diagnostic section of the manual, BTW. As a comparison, why don't you go test driving a 'replacement' 964 tiptronic at your local specialist?
re: selecting gears from neutral, you get two clunks - do you use the manual gate, or go from neutral to either D or 3? I only use the manual gate, and virtually NEVER have the car in neutral. If I pull up to a stop I will just keep the car in first unless its a really long wait.
WHat sort of idle speed do you have?? You will get a clunk from neutral to a gear if you change with high revs, ie 1000 rpm or more. I idle at 800 rpm ish and never clunk. The clunking is covered in the diagnostic section of the manual, BTW. As a comparison, why don't you go test driving a 'replacement' 964 tiptronic at your local specialist?
09-22-2003, 06:45 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
John - same for reverse. (eg out of garage in morning!)
I think I'll go test driving!
Edit - although a test drive of a simplarly aged & worn 964 may just tell me that when old & worn, all 964 cabs feel the same. What I'd like to drive is a perfectly maintained 964 tip (ie factory fresh) to find out what is should fee like...
I think I'll go test driving!
Edit - although a test drive of a simplarly aged & worn 964 may just tell me that when old & worn, all 964 cabs feel the same. What I'd like to drive is a perfectly maintained 964 tip (ie factory fresh) to find out what is should fee like...
