Brakes sticking after brake pads replacement
#1
Track Day
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oslo, Norway, Scandinavia
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Brakes sticking after brake pads replacement
Hey,
Did a trackday last week end and had the brake pad wear warning ligth come on. So I bought brake pads front and rear along with new wear sensors and attempted my first brake pads replacement this week.
I followed the DIY threads that are available here on the forum, and apart from getting the old break pads out, everything went smooth and fairly easy (I re-used the anti vibration pads). However after replacing all pads and sensors, my warning light on the dash still won't go away and I'm experiencing sticking brakes.
The brakes seems to function correctly, and the bite point is pretty similar to before the pads were replaced. Brake pedal behaviour seems normal.
I removed some of the brake fluid from the reservoir before installing the new pads and filled up again after the new pads were installed. No brake flush has been done, but that shouldn't be required should it?
Any tips?
Did a trackday last week end and had the brake pad wear warning ligth come on. So I bought brake pads front and rear along with new wear sensors and attempted my first brake pads replacement this week.
I followed the DIY threads that are available here on the forum, and apart from getting the old break pads out, everything went smooth and fairly easy (I re-used the anti vibration pads). However after replacing all pads and sensors, my warning light on the dash still won't go away and I'm experiencing sticking brakes.
The brakes seems to function correctly, and the bite point is pretty similar to before the pads were replaced. Brake pedal behaviour seems normal.
I removed some of the brake fluid from the reservoir before installing the new pads and filled up again after the new pads were installed. No brake flush has been done, but that shouldn't be required should it?
Any tips?
Last edited by GMK; 08-09-2015 at 01:42 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
The sensors open a circuit when they trigger - same as disconnecting them. So if you still see a brake sensor warning after changing sensors and pads, you did not install the sensors correctly. Recheck your connections into the round connector and make sure the new sensor plugs are inserted correctly.
How do you know your pads are stuck? Excessive heat? Dust? Squeal? If the new pads were inserted properly and are not binding, there is a fairly good chance they are not binding. Btw, you can run w/o the dampers.
How do you know your pads are stuck? Excessive heat? Dust? Squeal? If the new pads were inserted properly and are not binding, there is a fairly good chance they are not binding. Btw, you can run w/o the dampers.
#3
Track Day
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Hey cjoenck, thanks for the response.
Guess I'm gonna have to re-check all the sensors again.
Fairly certain my brake pads are stuck as I'm experiencing excessive heat, and I can even hear them sticking when rolling down a hill with engine off.
What exactly did you mean by "If the new pads were inserted properly and are not binding, there is a fairly good chance they are not binding"?
Cheers!
Guess I'm gonna have to re-check all the sensors again.
Fairly certain my brake pads are stuck as I'm experiencing excessive heat, and I can even hear them sticking when rolling down a hill with engine off.
What exactly did you mean by "If the new pads were inserted properly and are not binding, there is a fairly good chance they are not binding"?
Cheers!
#4
Rennlist Member
It is very common to have corrosion under the spring plates. If the pads were hard to extract, and the new ones did not go in easy with no friction, then you have the dreaded "spring plate corrosion". There are 2 ways to fix the problem. The right way is to take off the plates and clean everything up, and then reinstall, the other is to grind enough material off the steel backing plate on the pads to allow them to slide in effortless.
HERE is a picture of the brakes and plates, part # 14.
HERE is a picture of the brakes and plates, part # 14.
Last edited by crg53; 08-10-2015 at 06:34 PM.
#5
Race Car
Brakes sticking after brake pads replacement
Originally Posted by crg53
It is very common to have corrosion under the spring plates. If the pads were hard to extract, and the new ones did not go in easy with no friction, then you have the dreaded "spring plate corrosion". There are 2 ways to fix the problem. The right way is to take off the plates and clean everything up, and then reinstall, the other is to grind enough material off the steel backing plate on the pads to allow them to slide in effortless.
HERE is a picture of the brakes and plates, part # 14.
HERE is a picture of the brakes and plates, part # 14.
They get destroyed when you take them out.
#6
Rennlist Member
They can be a real pain in the butt to remove, but if you take the callipers apart, you can get at them with an impact screw driver, that normally breaks them loose.
I can't remember the size, but guessing they are 6 mm. HERE is a selection of socket button head screws.
I can't remember the size, but guessing they are 6 mm. HERE is a selection of socket button head screws.
Last edited by crg53; 08-11-2015 at 10:52 AM.
#7
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Many years ago, when I rebuilt my calipers, I searched Google and found that they are also used on motorcycles. (unfortunately, it was too long ago to find the paperwork for them, but I do recall that they were from a motorcycle parts supplier, and already coated with Loctite blue)
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#8
Nordschleife Master
They can be a real pain in the butt to remove, but if you take the callipers apart, you can get at them with an impact screw driver, that normally breaks them loose.
I can't remember the size, but guessing they are 6 mm. HERE is a selection of socket button head screws.
I can't remember the size, but guessing they are 6 mm. HERE is a selection of socket button head screws.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-A2-STAI...item337b053021