C2 or C4?
07-20-2015, 09:38 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
OP, I am familiar with the roads you will be driving and I would personally recommend the C2. It doesn't sound like you will be driving in the snow with the car you purchase. Weight, as with all cars, is what affects handling the most. I have driven a C4 while instructing a student on the track and as communicated before you feel the weight and drivetrain of the awd while steering and cornering. It isn't a bad experience, just not quite as crisp as the C2 IMO. You can find a good C2, especially with your budget, if you are patient. I would personally try to find a 1992 or later with the updated motor or find one that has had the top-end rebuilt by a reputable shop. That being said, most of these cars require a top-end rebuild after 75K miles. Make sure you leak-down the motor prior to any purchase because this is a $10K plus proposition.
07-20-2015, 09:52 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
To be clear, I did not say "mandatory". I have seen many cars above this mileage and age requiring this work at my local air-cooled Porsche shop. Even if the number is as low as 10% of the motors, I believe it is advisable to always perform a leak down test due to the potentially high repair costs.
07-20-2015, 10:42 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
To be clear, I did not say "mandatory". I have seen many cars above this mileage and age requiring this work at my local air-cooled Porsche shop. Even if the number is as low as 10% of the motors, I believe it is advisable to always perform a leak down test due to the potentially high repair costs.
"Mandatory" was my interpretation of your statement, "most of these cars require a top-end rebuild after 75k miles".......
07-21-2015, 06:05 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
I believe you would be happy with either a C2 or C4.
The 911's I've owned (beginning in the early 80's with a '75) have all been 2WD's.
After much shopping, driving, and really trying to understand what it was i was looking to get out of a Porsche this go around, I ended up with a '94 C4 widebody this summer...my 1st awd Porsche.
For a 1st time 911 buyer I would normally recommend they get a 2WD. But from the sound of the way you will be using and driving the car...i believe either would scratch the itch.
They are both great cars and I guess I'd just echo the concept of given a choice between the 2, just take the better car.
Have fun.
The 911's I've owned (beginning in the early 80's with a '75) have all been 2WD's.
After much shopping, driving, and really trying to understand what it was i was looking to get out of a Porsche this go around, I ended up with a '94 C4 widebody this summer...my 1st awd Porsche.
For a 1st time 911 buyer I would normally recommend they get a 2WD. But from the sound of the way you will be using and driving the car...i believe either would scratch the itch.
They are both great cars and I guess I'd just echo the concept of given a choice between the 2, just take the better car.
Have fun.
07-21-2015, 11:58 PM
#20
Race Car
C2 or C4?
Originally Posted by Earlydays
mmporsche - I totally agree with your point about having a thorough PPI w/ a leak-down test.; we can both agree this is mandatory.
"Mandatory" was my interpretation of your statement, "most of these cars require a top-end rebuild after 75k miles".......
"Mandatory" was my interpretation of your statement, "most of these cars require a top-end rebuild after 75k miles".......
That's just my case. That said, I have now seen, driven, worked on, played with, bought, and tried to buy many of these cars...and I will agree that a properly taken care of 964 at 75k or even higher, won't likely need a top end rebuild...but far too many of these cars were and are owned by people that don't understand them and don't treat them properly, and need valve jobs and new valve guides and have broken valve springs. And on a side note, our lovely federal government, mandating zinc and phosphorus out of our motor oil - another fact that most 911 owners don't seem to have gotten through their heads - had and still does today, exacerbate this problem, leading to more cars needing top end rebuilds...
Unfortunate, since like I said, a well cared for 911 will go a long long way for a lot of miles without missing a beat. Owners just have to know to take care of them the right way.
Good clean fluids, rev them high, drive them everyday. It's sort of the 911 version of "an apple a day"...
07-22-2015, 06:09 AM
#21
Intermediate
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wiltshire, UK
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its relatively easy to convert a c4 to a c2, granted probably not the best for resale - few like a frankencar, but its alot easier to find a fantastic reasonable price c4 so don't outright discount it without getting a few quotes first.
07-22-2015, 08:15 PM
#23
Drifting
Lots of good info and a comparison between the two here http://www.performance2and4.co.uk
Long story short; the average Joe probably couldn't tell them apart. C2 is faster on a track while the C4 is easier to manage, more usable and potentially faster in the real world. People go on about how C4s understeer but this can be easily and cheaply sorted.
Long story short; the average Joe probably couldn't tell them apart. C2 is faster on a track while the C4 is easier to manage, more usable and potentially faster in the real world. People go on about how C4s understeer but this can be easily and cheaply sorted.
07-22-2015, 09:48 PM
#24
Registered User
Lots of good info and a comparison between the two here http://www.performance2and4.co.uk
Long story short; the average Joe probably couldn't tell them apart. C2 is faster on a track while the C4 is easier to manage, more usable and potentially faster in the real world. People go on about how C4s understeer but this can be easily and cheaply sorted.
Long story short; the average Joe probably couldn't tell them apart. C2 is faster on a track while the C4 is easier to manage, more usable and potentially faster in the real world. People go on about how C4s understeer but this can be easily and cheaply sorted.
07-23-2015, 02:14 AM
#28
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Auckland NZ
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buying a 964 is an emotional decision first so buy the model you actually want , analyse too much and you end up over it before you even start . This is why people pay 6-7 times the value of a C2 for an RS , not because it's 6-7 times the car but because that's the one they want..
I had never driven a C4 and have no doubt they are awesome cars but I just knew it was a C2 manual that I wanted , had to pay a premium , but my want is fulfilled..
I had never driven a C4 and have no doubt they are awesome cars but I just knew it was a C2 manual that I wanted , had to pay a premium , but my want is fulfilled..
07-23-2015, 02:44 AM
#29
Burning Brakes
Buying a 964 is an emotional decision first so buy the model you actually want , analyse too much and you end up over it before you even start . This is why people pay 6-7 times the value of a C2 for an RS , not because it's 6-7 times the car but because that's the one they want..
I had never driven a C4 and have no doubt they are awesome cars but I just knew it was a C2 manual that I wanted , had to pay a premium , but my want is fulfilled..
I had never driven a C4 and have no doubt they are awesome cars but I just knew it was a C2 manual that I wanted , had to pay a premium , but my want is fulfilled..
I didn't care whether it was a C2 or C4 when I found my 964. I just loved the Strosek body mods and the overall look of the car.
I didn't really even think of the difference between a C2 or C4 at the time of purchase nor do I think of the difference now. Frankly I care more about the colour rather than if it was a C2 or C4.
As you are asking about the drive train it obviously makes a difference to you so buy what you want and really no-one else can figure that out for you.
07-23-2015, 10:14 PM
#30
Drifting