Newbie Winter Storage Question
#1
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Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
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Newbie Winter Storage Question
I need some assistance from the experts. I am new to air cooled Porsches after purchasing a July built 1989 Carrera 4. The car is in original condition in every respect and would be considered an above average driver quality car. It does weep oil as expected but otherwise mechanically sound. Because I live in a very cold climate and it requires storage of the 911 due to the excessive salt and sand used in the winter. As such, I am putting my car into a secure garage for the winter. The garage will be heated for the winter and car will not be moved for roughly 5 months. I preparation, I changed the oil, replaced the battery, plan to clean the car inside and out and inflate the tires to max pressure. My question is what else should I do? I have heard some people will put a chemical like Sta-Bil in the gas tank. Is this a good idea? I also purchased a battery tender and cover. Any opinion or advice is greatly appreciated!
#2
Drifting
We still have a few more days to enjoy before putting them away but 5 months storage... you're optimistic. Everything you mentioned so far is right. I put a can of Seafoam in mine, run it for a few miles before pulling into the garage and let it rest for the winter. If there could be critters living in your storage, some folks use peppermint and/or mothballs on the outside, I prefer dryer sheets inside the car to keep them at bay. Also, consider steel wool in exhaust and other openings, just make a note to take them out before startup in the Spring.
#3
Burning Brakes
Steve W recommends Sta Bil Marine and I cant argue with that..he knows more than I do..Put sta bil in ..fill the tank and run it for a few minutes to make sure stabil treated fuel is in entire system..other than what you already have on your to do list thats about all ..I do keep my windows open a bit to let the interior breathe.
#5
Three Wheelin'
In addition to oil change i'd replace the filter too. Full interior & exterior detail paying special attention to seals (doors, windows, boot, bonnet) - they need to be waxed to avoid drying up. I also leave a tiny gap in windows so the seal is not fully compressed. Some also put in a piece of coal on a biscuit tin in the car. You didn't mention it but I assume an indoor cover is a given!
#6
Drifting
I forgot to add, the only thing I always debate is whether to fill up with premium or non-oxygenated gas. Some say non-oxy is the way to go, others don't see the benefit. Perhaps someone with some insight can chime in.
Last edited by LPMM; 10-24-2014 at 12:13 PM. Reason: spelling
#7
Three Wheelin'
If you add stabilisers it would negate the use of non oxygenated fuel.
BTW it would be beneficial to the engine seals if you had the possibility to turn on the car and brought it up to the operating temp every other months or so.
Last but not list there is no universal agreement on some of the methods such as fuel & turning on the engine.
BTW it would be beneficial to the engine seals if you had the possibility to turn on the car and brought it up to the operating temp every other months or so.
Last but not list there is no universal agreement on some of the methods such as fuel & turning on the engine.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Battery Tender, new oil, Moisture absorbent products (bags) for the interior. I would put the bags on cardboard, and on the carpet. I drive the P-car on to styrofoam to keep the new tires round. Car cover done.
#9
Drifting
Interesting, some folks say park it and forget it but I hear what you're saying about engine seals. I can certainly start it up, pull it out of the garage, let it idle in the driveway, then pull it back into the garage. However, it may take quite some time for the oil to come up to operating temps when it is stupid cold outside.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Interesting, some folks say park it and forget it but I hear what you're saying about engine seals. I can certainly start it up, pull it out of the garage, let it idle in the driveway, then pull it back into the garage. However, it may take quite some time for the oil to come up to operating temps when it is stupid cold outside.
I think both ways have their advantages and disadvantages but in case of 964 and its sealing issues I think it's better to run it once every month or two.
#11
Three Wheelin'
I live in the Boston area and I drive mine year round. Longest it sits is a few weeks at most when the roads are white with salt. Couldn't bear the thought of her sitting unused. Great heat helps.
#12
IHI KING!
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Your list looks good. Adding gas stabilizer is always helpful. For me, the key is the battery tender. I killed my battery the first time I stored my car for the winter. Otherwise, it started up and ran fine. Remember to drop the tire pressures back down to normal before driving. The other thing I do, is I change my insurance to "storage mode" (or non-operation) which still protects the car in storage and reduces my premiums over the winter.
#13
I heard you should remove about 3qts of oil when storing the car for a long time. Once you are ready to bring it out start car up and bring it to operating temp and put the 3qts of oil back in.
#14
Reference please. I have never heard of this and it sounds like VERY bad advice.
#15