Painting valve covers, any advice
#1
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Painting valve covers, any advice
While the engine will be off with the guru for a few months over winter, I decided to keep a few bits here to work on. I have glass beaded the engine tin and painted with high heat paint. Now I plan to paint the valve covers and this is what I'm looking at:
Scuff the paint surface with bristle pad or other to give the stripper some bite
Chemical stripping to loosen the paint to reduce the blasting erosion
Wash thoroughly several times
Bake at 200c to flash any moisture in the metal
Light coats of self etching primer while still warm
High temp enamel paint followed by recommended oven cycles
Possible clear coating if I don't go with wrinkle finish
Any suggestion on any of the steps?
Scuff the paint surface with bristle pad or other to give the stripper some bite
Chemical stripping to loosen the paint to reduce the blasting erosion
Wash thoroughly several times
Bake at 200c to flash any moisture in the metal
Light coats of self etching primer while still warm
High temp enamel paint followed by recommended oven cycles
Possible clear coating if I don't go with wrinkle finish
Any suggestion on any of the steps?
#4
Race Car
Check yours are true ie flat - use a marble or glass surface ... If not warped, they shd be fine
Else rennline make billet Cnc 964 ones ... See my development journal thread's last update
Else rennline make billet Cnc 964 ones ... See my development journal thread's last update
#5
Race Car
Mine (hargett billet) were shot w high temp black satin enamel. They are pealing a little. Powder coat would last longer. But don't powder coat the insides of billet covers. Can't speak for the mag covers since they seem to fall apart. Mine were horrible.
#6
Rennlist Member
If you have the magnesium covers you will need to clean them thoroughly a Dow 7 treatment would be best but costly to send out and have done.
If you glass bead them you will want to wash them first and they dry in a warm oven around 100 degrees with circulation to dry. Coat them with primer (preferably high temp)at least 1 hour after blasting and then apply a nice high temp paint. The more time exposed to the atmosphere the quicker the corrosion will start to occur.
If you glass bead them you will want to wash them first and they dry in a warm oven around 100 degrees with circulation to dry. Coat them with primer (preferably high temp)at least 1 hour after blasting and then apply a nice high temp paint. The more time exposed to the atmosphere the quicker the corrosion will start to occur.
#7
I am having my 1991 C2 cap with trip engine overhauled and using a sating high heat paint on as many surfaces that need attention. I reason being it helps to dissipate heat which these engines need help with.
Satin black high temp paint will work best add to what you have without going too crazy. Chrome and thick clears will keep heat in. I am just keeping it simple. Good Luck
Satin black high temp paint will work best add to what you have without going too crazy. Chrome and thick clears will keep heat in. I am just keeping it simple. Good Luck
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So I have the uppers glass bead blasted and cleaned nicely. I dusted the insides to remove only loose paint. I stuck blue tack in the gasket grooves to protect them during the blasting. I then heated the covers in the oven at 200F for 20 minutes to dry and gas off the metal. I then hit them with duplicolor self etching primer to bite into the metal and seal them so I can take time to determine the high heat paint I'll use. I have been thinking of rankle paint but may just stick with a grey silver look. Then it's baking time!