boxsey911

Great progress indeed.

Going back to the door locking question...for your info, on my 90 I need battery power to lock the car with the key but it can be unlocked without power. I guess this is a failsafe so that you can get in the car if the battery goes flat.

If I want to leave the car locked with the battery disconnected (to save it from running flat), I open the bonnet and then lock the car and then disconnect the battery and shut the bonnet.

cobalt

Thanks everyone.

It is all this little stuff that takes so much time.

I spent last night wiring the mirrors. Since my wife and I both drive usually back to back power mirrors are a must. Porsche connectors would have cost me $40 for the parts and $20 to expedite from Germany so I used the $2.24 radio shack connectors. All went well easy enough to do. I crimped and soldered all connections only to find the switch did not work properly.

I noticed over the years that these can get temperamental. Since i just spent $8 on the stupid **** that most of us loose over the years I wasn't about to buy the switch also. So as most of the mechanical switches and connectors on these cars usually have contact issues I decided to rebuild it. You have to love the way they did things back then. Quality switch. copper rails as contacts and three silver pins that are moved together to make contact in multiple directions so you can activate the motor on two axis at once.

My switch had arching on both contacts moving on one axis, so a simple disassembling and cleaning of the contacts and it works like new. I think I will rebuild the one on my C2 which has some dead spots. You can see the darkening of the contacts at both 9 and 3.

cobalt

I have been busy trying to get things finished but I am having a problem getting some parts. Everything has to come from Germany and a lot of places don't want to be bothered 3 weeks after you place the order.

Still missing the shift bar for the rothsport shifter. The factory tube that fits into the C2 shifter box that the shift mechanism mounts to. looks like I will have to source a pipe with the correct OD and make one.

So I have run into delays that have pushed off having the engine work done. I am focusing on small stuff. Installed the pedal cluster gas pedal, cable etc. I installed the drivers seat and the Sparco EVO 2 is a large seat hits the center console and door but it fits I used a recaro slider for safety since it has more locking points than the sparco. I will still have to sit on the seat without a cushion with my helmet in order for my wife to have a cushion and see over the wheel properly. I have enough padding and it never bothered me before.

Pictures to come later.

Having fresh hardware back from the plater was a nice touch. Makes the work much easier. I have several sets of bins with parts this is about 25% of everything I had plated in cad yellow.

cobalt

I was playing with ways to duct the brakes. I have a set of tech art brake ducting left over from the fog light duct kit I never used. I am trying this on for size it is not direct to the disc but is easier to plumb and throws considerable air towards the new deflector that sends a lot of air in the right direction. I have turbo wheel liners from when I picked up the bumpers and other parts. The passenger side was cut and a screen installed to allow more air flow. I used the tech art pieces and ran them up front. I want to use the ducts that replace the fog lights to throw more air towards the coolers so I ran the ducting down below and used Rigid vacuum cleaner nozzles as scoops to grab air. I guess we will see if it works soon enough.

Dry fit the bumper and the new hood crest to go with my black and blue scheme.

cobalt

I am slowly getting to the suspension. I was hoping to purchase a used set of Moton's but after months of back and forth it doesn't seem to be working out so the H&R will have to do. I have installed some parts for now but it will all have to come apart again later. We need to change out the springs, steering rack, tie rods and uprights with 993 parts. I have them coming so that should be soon enough. I also have to replace the lower ball joint with new. Everything is ERP and I am currently set up with the stock 964 supports but I am considering an intermediate setting using the 993 supports. I am not going to use the turbo bolt up points so I will have to play around with that. For now this is what it looks like.

Camber truss installed as well.

Bill Verburg

I'm sure you know this but just to be sure,
993 longitudinals in the stock position push the suspension out 12.5mm /side
stock suspension in the outer holes pushes the suspension out 30mm /side

for a track car 993RS wheel carriers are very worthwhile

cobalt

I do painfully so. RS wheel carriers are not in the budget this year. if it were only the carriers than I would splurge but then you need the Rs type tie rods and it starts to add up quickly. I have a complete front 993 suspension I picked up for a lot less and i have the parts to play with for now. I have gone through this with my wife before since she drives the car as well it tends to be a series of stepping stones.

Ideally I would like to see the 993RS wheel carriers, motons or JRZ along with a few other changes but I promised to keep to a budget which surprisingly has already been exceeded.

There is always next year, I had three suspensions in my other car before we finally settled on what I originally proposed but that is marriage for you.

It's all good so long as I get the seat time.

908/3fan

Fantastic build.

cobalt

^^Thanks

This snow is slowing everything up and hopefully I will be on target for end of march but time is my enemy right now.

I have been working on lots of little things but it is not the progress I was hoping for.

As i said the seats are a tighter fit than I expected. As you can see they hit the door and will most likely touch each other in the center. they also hit the center console but I will work that out.

I started fitting the floor boards I was planning on having the coated with rhino truck bed lining when I remembered I had this roll of 3M Scotch tread. I inherited all of this stuff from my father-in-law who had inherited all this stuff from his father-in-law who started with bell labs back in the 1930's. I have no idea how old this stuff is but it has to be from the 1950's or earlier and it is like new. Adhesive is as strong as any of the new 3M tapes still to this day. So I figured i would give it a try. I tried to fins out when this stuff came out initially but no luck I did find a 6" x 60' roll for $338 so they still make it but I am sure the product has changed.


It has a carborundum type abrasive that should keep my feet from slipping on the aluminum which was my reasoning for coating the pieces to begin with. I have 96 feet so I can redo it as needed. Interesting the quality of the product is so good it lasted all these years. I love finding old products like this.

cobalt

Well I learned that 12" wheels will not fit in the back no matter how much I wished they would. I purchased a set of Fikse's from Spyerx and he was a complete gentleman for letting me purchase them for a fantastic price. Packaged perfectly and when they arrived I thought they were new they looked so good.

I am happy with the fronts a perfect fit possibly 3-7mm spacer but otherwise they can be used as is the rears have a 9" barrel which I knew would be an issue but i don't think even with spacers and a lot of negative camber I will be able to get them to fit. They are just about touching the trailing arm so I should be fine with an 8" barrel question is will an 8.5 work or not. I have some figuring to do there.

I wasn't concerned about dismantling the wheels since i was planning on disassembling them to have them powder coated or painted black but now I am considering leaving them silver they look good as they are. So I should be set to go soon.

What does everyone think should I leave them silver or paint them satin black?

Meanwhile I have mounted two battery disconnects one inside and one outside the car. I will post pictures of those later. I also started fitting the rocker panels which is a lot of work along with the ducts in the bumper and side lights which will be dark tinted.

TouringTeg

I vote for the factory silver finish. Keep up the good work!

Mixter

Great thread Anthony. Every time I open it, it's like starting a new chapter in a good book (with great pictures).

Love the 50 + year 3M Scotch tread. Just a little touch of backdate.

Too bad about the rear wheels not fitting. Will it work if you stretch the tire a bit.....

Undutched

Everything certainly looks like business! Great effort and so much detail and love in the parts!

FlyinTomato

Silver wheels please. Those look correct.

cobalt

I still haven't made a decision but I am leaning towards silver. Still need to budget for tires so I am thinking it can always be done in the future. The new Fikse's are different than my older style FM10's even though they look similar the center is different and it eats up a lot of the lip so you don't get the supper deep dish look for the offsets.

BTW these are the stats on the wheels currently

Fronts: 18x9 51 offset
Rears: 18x12 44 offset

Fikse Profil 10
428811 18" Profil 10 Mesh F722A11-3692
220810 Outer Rim 1.0 X 18 20 Hole 2 221880 Inner Rim 8.0 X 18 20 Hole 2
Front = 9.0 X 18, +51mm Offset

448811 18" Profil 10 Mesh F724A11-3694
220830 Outer Rim 3.0 X 18 20 Hole 2 221890 Inner Rim 9.0 X 18 20 Hole 2
Rear = 12.0 X 18, +44mm Offset

300803 Finish Race Satin clear anodized: Entire Wheel

Stock sizes would be

9.0 x 18 +ET 48
11.0 x 18 +ET 5

A rough calculation but switching to an 8" barrel should bring me to about an ET18 or so a bit more than I wanted but I have no doubt it will work if i don't switch out the outer lip as well. It is a stretch!! though