GT TWO

Great project! look forward to seeing progress.

cobalt

Finding wide body parts is not easy. I originally purchase some 930 fiber glass fenders at Hershey. I believe they are Getty design. I wanted steel but could not find anything. My body man gave me a flat rate to do the job but kept insisting steel was better and I have to agree. Anyone needing new fiberglass front 930 fenders let me know.

Porsche has released new versions of steel add on parts however pricing is through the roof and it is all 930 based. LA dismantlers had a set of front 964 fenders but was well beyond my budget. After spending 3 months going back and forth with someone on PP he bagged on me just as the car was going in for the body work. It actually worked out for the better I sourced a set of 930 steel fenders from Canada and found someone who had a 930 converted to 964 turbo look that was reverting the car back to stock. I made a trade with him. My ready to paint factory turbo tail for a set of factory rockers, F&R bumpers, RS bi-wing tail and many other small parts I needed. For the cost of shipping the parts. It was as though it was meant to be. So although some 930 parts are used it will be a build using all factory parts and no glass except the bi-wing.

The problems i learned about using 930 parts is there is a lot of additional fabrication needed to make the parts work. The 930 has a welded in fuel filler box that needs to be removed. New tabs need to be fabricated to mount the 964 plastic filler box and lid. Tabs need to be removed from the narrow body panels and welded in place to attach the support bars which also hold the wheel liners. Then there are the indentations that are needed to hold the factory rocker panels in place. I also learned that the plastic tabs used on the turbo to hold the 965 rockers in place are a different part number and are larger than the 964 parts. So I needed all new plastic tabs.

A lot of work had to go into fitting everything. These cars were truly hand worked built however you want to word it. What fits perfectly on one car does not necessarily fit on another. We even had a 964 factory wide body to measure off of and it was different than my turbo by a small amount.

We also rolled the front and rear lips while we were at it I plan on running at least 9 and 12" rims so the extra room is always nice.

cobalt

The car is coming along nicely primer was completely sanded. They are still working on some small details and tight areas. Smooth as a babies behind otherwise.

Should be ready for the paint next week can't wait.

cobalt

Although the cage meets club racing requirements I made it easy to get in an out of, I should be fine I don't plan on testing it and since i am not racing odds are I won't need to.

After some deliberation I decided to gut the doors and I will be using polycarbonate windows. The doors will have Poly in the tracks and I will be able to secure them either up for transport or down for driving.

It is a considerable weight savings and making the cage NASCAR style into the door makes it easier to get in and out of and more distance to travel in the case of an impact. I could have spent a bit more and fitted everything tighter to the A & B pillars but this will do what I need it to.

I have a bit of work to do on it yet but this is what I have so far.

Vq-1

Awesome build! Looking forward to its completion.

Viking911

Nice, look forward to follow your project, have a similar one in mind.

What power is the Proto engine putting out? Had Todd to build engines for me before, top chap, one of the best.

STUARTQ

Good to see you finally got round to starting a thread on this build.

HiWind

Wow ... Great details - thanks for sharing!

K964

Amazing!!! Looking forward to seeing the completed project.

KaiB

Anthony. Do you have a feel for the weight of the steel fenders and flares over the glass?

Interested.

cobalt

We will turn down the boost initially to around .3-.35 bar with an output of roughly 400-425BHP. Will figure that out once it is up and running. Still not sure what she will weigh. My wife is flip flopping on me and now she wants some carpeting and other added parts that will be getting a free ride around the tracks. I figured we can always up the power if we decide to as we get accustomed to the car. She is hesitant about the major change so I want her to be comfortable with it before we turn up the power. As with the C2 it took me 3 suspensions and a lot of patience for her to be comfortable driving it at speed. Now that she is an accomplished driver I am sure she will be able to handle it but I don't want to scare her with too much right off the bat.

She can't be that bad she asked and received the Rothsport short shifter complete with golden rod etc for her recent Birthday. I am blessed that she is as excited as I am about the build. I manufactured aluminum and magnesium sand castings for the military for 30 years and I appreciate quality craftsmanship and their product is outstanding in every way. If it is half as nice to use as everyone says it is it is worth every cent.

The glass fenders I believe are Getty. They weigh 7 pounds each. I did not weigh the metal ones they went directly to the shop. My guess would be a total savings of 12-14 pounds possibly more. When I set the fenders later after installing the dual oil cooler and new oil lines I will try to get you more accurate numbers.

My concern was too much weight being removed from the front of the car adding additional rear weight bias. I am more interested in a decent balance front to rear than I am overall weight savings. I also am trying to reduce as much weight from up high and un-sprung weight but there are pros and cons to each.

I have a set of 993 front aluminum wheel carriers not sure if they are worth using. My research tells me that the aluminum saves around 4 pounds per corner however aluminum transfers more vibration and impact to the bearings shortening their life. RS carriers are not in the budget for now. The cast iron uprights absorb more so what to do at this point I am open to suggestions. I am also considering using the 993 side members to mount the wishbones to, they have longer tabs that supposedly allow better adjustment when lowering the car and help with bump steer. I am still a long way off from that decision.

I am already setup with the ERP bushings on all corners and I will be using my H&R supercup suspension from my turbo it isn't doing much good in that car since i barely drive it much anymore. So all rubber has been removed from the suspension. I still have not decided to use the RS motorsports sway bars I have in the C2 or leave them in the C2 and buy the H&R bars. The motorsports bars offer 5 way adjustable front and three way rear but is only a slight increase over stock. I had them set at full soft front and full stiff rear on my C2. I like the idea of the H&R stiffer rear bar but they only offer 2 way adjustability. In either case I will be using the Tarrett drop links.

So my wife has some requests for making the car look pretty. (I said this would be unconventional and full of compromises) So I have Taken the dried cracked dash and side pieces modified them to fit with the roll cage and covered everything in automotive grade fire resistant padded Alcantara. Took some learning but after a few screw ups it came out fine for a track car. We are still in negotiations on whether the center console will be used or not. BTW cost to do the alcantara was around $75 including DAP super adhesive and wasting a few yards of material. Lesson learned use extreme patience when doing this. The glue will take longer than 10 min to dry in the corners and if you begin to press the material in place too soon it will bleed through. It can be cleaned up but takes a lot of work using Acetone and sand paper but usually ends up starting over. Also the acetone will remove the glue but will break down the dash material if you are not careful.

Pics of rothsport shifter and alcantara parts.

SuperUser

You are going to love the Golden Rod and Rothsport shifter! Did you also get the front section of the linkage?

KaiB

Thanks. I'm wrestling with the choice btw. steel and glass for the race car. I REALLY want to use steel.

FWIW, I'm also very happy with the H&R bars...and the records my little car has are proof that they work well - at least for me and my style. edit: although for a WB, one only knows. If you can afford it, the RS bars will certainly offer finer tuning.

cobalt

The complete package including new bushings. This was a C4 so nothing is compatible and all the parts need to be new. I think I am more excited about this upgrade than just about anything else.

Are you considering wide body or just a way of reducing weight? Unless you need to find the weight I would stick with steel. If not I have a nice set of glass fenders cheap

Right now I am kicking myself for not saving the RS aluminum pieces from my 74 IROC clone.

I am not buying the RS bars again they have doubled since I purchased them. I have them on the C2 just would prefer to not have to remove them I have enough parts to swap out as it is and I don't think I can go too far back to stock before I begin to hate the car and have to sell it. So if the H&R's don't suit my needs I can always swap them out with the RS bars.

New shift box that needed to be welded in place.

Sorry I use my cell phone lately so some of these pictures suck

cobalt

So they shot the first coat of paint. We used a toyota color he had left over from another job. Glazurit paint and a bit brash but it is only for the purpose of seeing any surface imperfections. The final color will be maratime blue the little square in the pictures.

If all goes well the car will be painted tomorrow and will be ready to be picked up Thursday or Friday, then the fun begins.