dave964diver

Difficult to tell from the photo . Is your ring gear in properly all the way home and square? Have the speed ref sensor well out the way and check that your engine stand yoke isnt fouling anything. The Lwf should go all rhe way home when you tap it on check its properly seated on the crank.

pi5tolpete

Yup. That is it as far as I can see. Will do a final torque with the engine off the yoke when I mate it to the tranny.

Cheers!

pi5tolpete

Getting closer. Didn't like that 3 tree nuts fell from my intakes when I picked them up from the box they were in. Time to borrow the Boroscope from work, me thinks.

pi5tolpete

Planning for th re-stall this weekend. I have all the connector lists for when I removed it. Can anyone suggest an order of operation for the reinstall? Hits, tips, tricks?

pi5tolpete

Install went well. Issues with the tranny to engine but finally went with the loose clutch late method and it went well from there.
Will post this question here as well, with a rebuilt engine as well as an oil tank and oil cooler refurb, I expected that the car would take the normal amount of oil at first (6quarts/ litres) then a bigger top up to fill the lines and cooler once the thermostat opened. I did this, and have now put in a full 12 litres of oil into the system without the sensor budging. My question is for those that have done a rebuilt with all oil out, HOW MUCH OIL DOES IT TAKE TO REGISTER ON THE GUAGE?
Idle is hunting once warmed up. Thermostat opened up on queue. I'm finding it hard to read the dipstick to know where my level is..

ThomasC2

The gauge is hanging as a float at the top of the oiltank. So it more or less only is active when your near max. The range of the float is 1,7 liters, meaning the last 1,7 liters in the system.

Rocket Rob

Don't put in more than 12 quarts, as that is the max capacity. If your gauge is not reading, maybe you have a loose connection to the sender.

pi5tolpete

I disconnected and reconnected the sender and the dash spiked to full then down again so it seems to be getting a signal from the sender. I'll drive for now. 12L is PLENTY.

-nick

Just for sanity- you are checking the oil after the engine has warmed up, and on a level surface? Never hurts to ask.

pi5tolpete

yes yes.

I have watched the oil temp climb, then drop, showing the thermostat has opened, then climb and settle out. I have not yet done a good long run and will do so once the safety passes.

pi5tolpete

Well, I may have put on 100km on the rebuilt engine by now. Oil pressure at regular rpm is pinned high. My idle still fluctuates (fabspeed exhaust and cat bypass and chip combo) so I may have a bit of ISV research to do. Reason I mention, is that when the revs drop to almost 200 rpm, my oil pressure is just below 1, so I'm not worried any longer.

Car is at the garage for the safety today. Plated and ready to rock, 'cept I need to stay below 4500 rpm for first 2000km ack!

Thanks to all for the help on my project. I'll probably post a follow-up either here or elsewhere on my reinstall learnings, specially clutch alignment and engine-to-tranny hardships.

Engine purrs like she ought to.

Peter