Ruf inspired C4 short-shift w/o cutting the undertray
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ruf inspired C4 short-shift w/o cutting the undertray
Hey guys,
i just did a short-shift conversion on my C4.
I saw the ruf part from the 90ties, but ruf does not sell the ss-stuff anymore.
So, i`d to help myself.
First:
You only need one orig. porsche OEM part from the 964.
You need the "green" part, to replace the "red" one. In the end, you screw two "greens" together (longer bolts with washer and nuts must be used).
After that, you`ve to create (lathe) a bolt, that adopts the light-blue bolt thats on the gear lever to fit the shift-fork to the lower half-shell.
After that, you`ve to cut the gear lever and weld some extra material in, to get the additional length. This length is the distance between the holes of the half-shells.
In the 964 tunnel, or better in the torque-tube of the 964 is not much room for any additional material, so we did a step by step welding over one day. But after some modifications, welding sessions, grinding sessions we ended with a minimum of 3mm space all around!
The lower pivot is still in place, undertray was not modified. We prolonged the lever to get the gear-**** closer to the steering wheel.
After all - i can shift to 5th while beeing lashed with 5P harness w/o loosen one shoulder belt :-).
Shift quality is harsh, but good. Second gear is a little bit to hard... shortening is quite perfect!
I bought an other gear lever to have mine as spare... costs were round about by 100€....
regards thilo
i just did a short-shift conversion on my C4.
I saw the ruf part from the 90ties, but ruf does not sell the ss-stuff anymore.
So, i`d to help myself.
First:
You only need one orig. porsche OEM part from the 964.
You need the "green" part, to replace the "red" one. In the end, you screw two "greens" together (longer bolts with washer and nuts must be used).
After that, you`ve to create (lathe) a bolt, that adopts the light-blue bolt thats on the gear lever to fit the shift-fork to the lower half-shell.
After that, you`ve to cut the gear lever and weld some extra material in, to get the additional length. This length is the distance between the holes of the half-shells.
In the 964 tunnel, or better in the torque-tube of the 964 is not much room for any additional material, so we did a step by step welding over one day. But after some modifications, welding sessions, grinding sessions we ended with a minimum of 3mm space all around!
The lower pivot is still in place, undertray was not modified. We prolonged the lever to get the gear-**** closer to the steering wheel.
After all - i can shift to 5th while beeing lashed with 5P harness w/o loosen one shoulder belt :-).
Shift quality is harsh, but good. Second gear is a little bit to hard... shortening is quite perfect!
I bought an other gear lever to have mine as spare... costs were round about by 100€....
regards thilo
#4
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Peachtree City, Ga
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 0
Received 64 Likes
on
54 Posts
Great / interesting job. I did about the same thing, but made the pin from a bolt, threaded a hole in the shift leaver and then double nutter the bolt to the lever.
Would suggest going one step further.
Grind the ball off the end of the lever and on the point were the lower shift tube anchors to the car in the front. Replace the plastic fitting cups on each end of that tube with Rod end bearings, this will give you a more solid feel when shifting. I made a whole new rod, easy to do.
Would suggest going one step further.
Grind the ball off the end of the lever and on the point were the lower shift tube anchors to the car in the front. Replace the plastic fitting cups on each end of that tube with Rod end bearings, this will give you a more solid feel when shifting. I made a whole new rod, easy to do.
#5
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Peachtree City, Ga
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 0
Received 64 Likes
on
54 Posts
Here re a few pics of the rod changes that I made - One think I did was on the bottom of the shift lever I added a longer bolt to allow a longer throw with a short shift lever movement. You can see the rod ends I added and the longer bolt in the pictures.
#7
Race Car
ps - did you rotate part 26 ie so the hole is on top instead of below?
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
@Gus
i just bougth the uniball fittings to do the same and i`ve created a carbon plate to fit the front part, but on a C4 - it is different.... i just saw the difference when removing the undertray..
i just bougth the uniball fittings to do the same and i`ve created a carbon plate to fit the front part, but on a C4 - it is different.... i just saw the difference when removing the undertray..
#10
Race Car
No prob .. And thanks for the other email reply ... Ps I also used Cupcar's thread to do my helm joint alterations as per Gus above ... Lots of pics in my 3.8 RS inspired trigger thread
#12
Race Car
rothsport sell them done beautifully
... but if you can buy a few helm/rose joints and arrange a very basic welder to help you
you'll be there in 2.5hrs working at leisurely friday evening pace
... but if you can buy a few helm/rose joints and arrange a very basic welder to help you
you'll be there in 2.5hrs working at leisurely friday evening pace
#15
Bumping this up as I plan to make my own short shifter similar to this one. Seems relavent given current threads about C4 shifters.
Surely someone else has made their own as well in the last few years?
Surely someone else has made their own as well in the last few years?