964TT

No they didn't cut any metal, it was just the doorpanel which had to be resized around the woofer.
This German company is small and high end so the prices are high. I think it was around €520.- for the pair. The sound is incredible though, really another level. They also come bare, so I am looking for a nice solution to protect/hide them in the new RS style door panels.

davidwilson11

im looking forward to this thread evolving...............popcorn ready

vagluv

Couple things:

I need to mount my door speakers to the metal. They were supposed to be done that way when I had them done, but they weren't. I've been thinking that when I do that I should dynamat the rest of the door, which should create a sort of sealed speaker box.

Second thing is I'm wondering if using a piece of anti glare screen protector on my excelon hu would fix the readability issue. hmmmmmm

hamah

lift the center console at the rear behind the emergency brake (I don't recall the details but there are instructions out there on how to do this...it's simple) then fish the cable under the carpet and over the hump.

RicardoD

Got all the amp and head unit wiring done today but I am going to work on some enhancements tomorrow. Rod from Car Audio Innovations sent me all the little bits and pieces I needed. Still took awhile to do everything properly and make sure all the cabling is neat and tidy with zip ties.

The Alpine head unit will be connected to my iPod Classic (160GB of music storage) which I will put in the glove box. However, I also want to be able to charge my iPhone and not have to plug something into a cigarette lighter. iPhone will connect to the head unit via Bluetooth for phone calls and Podcasts. I got a cheap Belkin iPhone car charger and am going to hard wire it into the car and keep it under the dash then fish a Lighting cable to charge my iPhone.

The biggest thing I figured out today was how to get the 8 AWG Amp power cable from the battery to under the passenger seat. Pictures attached. Everything else is just tedious and straightforward work.

Laker's wiring diagram and cable routing tips from his install really helped me today.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...grade-cab.html

RicardoD

Here are some more reference photos to help other down the road.

RicardoD

Here's the detail on the Belkin iPhone/iPod car charger I am going to install into the car so just a lightning cable is visible. There is a lot of under dash room in our cars to hide this and connect the Lightning cable to it. In my stereo install the Alpine USB connection will go to my iPod Classic for my music. This charger and lighting cable is for my iPhone.

I got this at Amazon and seems like no one wants the white ones as it was only $10. Belkin is real Made for iPod/iPhone/iPad accessory manufacturer so there is more quality to this than the super cheap generic chargers I have seen. This is a 2.1 amp charger (can charge iPads & iPhones).

I am going to wire this directly into my car and pickup the switched power (+) that goes to the radio and put an 4 amp fuse in line.

Pictures show how you direct wire one of these things. The shell in a cigarette lighter socket is ground. The middle center connection is positive (+)

RicardoD

I also got the door panel off today. Marc Shaws directions are super clear to remove the door panel:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...val-guide.html

Previous audio threads have stated that you get a massive improvement in acoustic quality if you hard mount the speaker to the door itself and not to the door card (I think it was Hamah that advocated this and it makes perfect sense). This is because you want your speaker rigidly mounted and not on a moveable membrane which must smear the lower frequencies. I've also seen picture of the holes in the sheet metal of the door that are already there.

Here is the inspiration photo form HiWind:
https://rennlist.com/forums/11500627-post44.html

So there you are in your garage, looking at the bare metal behind the door panel and you may be thinking, now what? Well that's what I went through today and if anyone else tries this my attachments will save you several hours (send me $5 via paypal as thanks!). Basically you need to make an adapter plate between the odd hole locations in the door sheet metal and your speakers. I don't think any speaker will line up with these holes. You have to do this adapter plate thing to get it to work. I am using 5 1/4" speakers.

So off I went to the hardware store to get some 0.5" (13mm) thick MDF. Then using my drafting tools from my freshman year in college (way back in 1989) I was able to transfer the door hole pattern to Google Sketchup. Finally, I printed my hole pattern to scale and lined it up to see if it fit. After some tweaking in Sketchup to get the holes to line up I had a high confidence pattern. I would assume the same tooling that made my door made yours. So just print out the attached pattern PDF to scale and check if it fits like I did in the photo below.

EDIT: I would use 1/4" MDF or equivalent. You end up with a bit too thick of a sandwich underneath the door card when re-assembling. I was able to make it work but I think 1/4" MDF or similar material for the adapter would have been a much better fit.

Then you need to modify the pattern to on the outside edges to make it fit nice and flat to the door. Finally with my drill and jig saw I had what I needed. The center opening hole in my adapter plate is specific to the speakers I purchased and I stopped working in the garage after test fitting the speaker. Everything is good so far.

hamah

Seems like a lot of extra work for the charger. I installed a separate 12v accessory outlet wired directly to the fuse box instead. It sits under the dash on the passenger side of the centre console. With a 10A fuse I just plug a 2 outlet USB car charger into it. Each of the outputs give me 5VDC 2A. I can also plug my Valentine V1 radar detector directly into it as well.

BTW your skills on making the MDF mounting ring make mine look childish. Nice work indeed.

RicardoD

Hamah,

Your probably right about the extra work on the charger, they sell those outlet kits ready to wire up with an inline fuse, etc. I just got it in my head to hack one up but there are simpler ways.

Streetdaddy

Maybe you could make a couple extra mdf rings?

Streetdaddy

Anybody know any reasonably priced woofers like 964tt put into his doors? I like this idea instead of a separate sub if possible.

tm.cz

Thanks very much for posting the pdf of the pattern!

Streetdaddy

What did you use to cut that out with? If i print that pdf will it be the correct template size?

RicardoD

I used my drill and my jig saw to cut out the MDF pattern. The PDF is to scale on an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper. Obviously before you make anything remove your door panel and check to make sure the template lines up. The dimensions are on the pattern so after you print you can check with a ruler that the print out is to scale. Where is says 131mm on the pattern it should measure 131mm on the ruler.

Also the large hole in my pattern is the hole in the sheet metal door (the actualy hole in my MDF adapter is for my specific speaker install). That will give you an idea about how large a speaker can fit.