Twood

I replaced the two bushes in the universal joint in my transmission linkage last month after losing 5th and reverse gears.
I thought I should also change the other bushes in the linkage.
The parts I need appear to be:
Bushing for Shift Rod Coupling (2 per car, sold per each), 911 424 223 03
Price range $4.50 - $16.95 ea ( already changed)
Shift Sleeve, 911 Carrera 2/4 (1989-91 964-424-224-01 $7.25 ea
Carrier Arm Bushing 999 924 002 40 x 4 $3.50 ea
Clutch Lever Ball Cup Bushing 928 116 145 03 M100 x 2 $16.25 ea

My question is:
Part number #4 964 424 115 00 no longer exists and appears to have been replaced with 964 424 115 01 Shift Sleeve.
Does this wear out, does it need replacing, does it contain the 4 x 964 424 115 00? I was just looking at replacing the 4 x number #4 parts and not the whole sleeve. Don't worry about the part highlighted in red - that is just the image I am using

Because I am in Australia and order parts from the States it makes it much easier if I get it correct first up.
Any other suggestion while I am doing this is appreciated.

HiWind

The real problem bush is in the cup of #15 and 16... It is worth having 2 spare
It IS sold separately and very cheap but as a 968 part I think ... Search as I did post the part number in my thread on that breakdown. (Sorry on ipad)

It have had my shifter off a couple times and while I did replace 4,10,6 etc... I don't need to
I did have to replace - as did many others - those white cups and eventually I just replaced
them with rose/helm joint ala Cupcar's RS shifter thread or Goldenrod mod.

HiWind

Per Fuch, here is the number .... 928.424.005.01

robt964

Part 26 doesn't wear as its not a moving or connected to a moving part.

Earlydays

Part 26, which is rubber, does deteriorate and falls apart allowing Part 27 to come loose and slide backward and then the shift lever will be very loose (you're able to pull up on it.....).

HiWind

Oh and to answer re 'whole' sleeve - no it's metal and won't wear out ...
4 is just the rubber on the moving edge where the grease is ...
Can get dry, brittle .... Easy to replace ... I did use the new part x4
When PET says the part is superceded it means you can /should use the new part
As far as I'm aware

bmohr

ooooh. Just ran into this problem. Shifting start feeling a little sloppy. Next thing I know I can push the level left and right and instead of going into a gear it just bangs with a metal thud. Also, I can easily pull the shift up. Still a little confused as to what I need to order as far as parts goes.

edit: So, i got my box opened. Part 27 the long fat cylinder tube looks like it has been Pulled out from the circular opening forward the dash. Is this supposed to be fixed/jammed in that hole? There is a yellow/whitest plastic ring that is loose. I have no clue how this would work to secure the tube in said hole. Very confused. I hate working with interior pieces.

HiWind

open up the tunnel and have a look but its likely that part i quote above ...
also see this thread re quick fix

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-bad-days.html

Earlydays

Replace part # 26, it' done from the bottom. 10min. to put in the new rubber bushing, but 1 hr to first remove all the different under tray panels.....

HiWind

Where's 28 ie the clip?

Earlydays

Probably laying on the tunnel under tray.....

bmohr

So i need #4, #19, #26 and #28 then right? I think I got it down. Many thanks for all the advice and help. Great thread.

HiWind

First open up the tunnel ... Clips etc.. Likely fine and don't need replacement,
If the cause of the issue is the plastic cup bushes on the ***** of the front shift rod and shifter itself, that's the likely only issue. Also ensure you use grease suited to rubber!

Happy tinkering ... That was my first ever issue so glad I could add something (along w earlydays) useful to the discussion for a change

bmohr

I pulled the tray, put on the new rubber gasket (part 26) but I couldn't locate a metal clip (part 28?) in the tunnel! Thinking about using a piece of metal wire to tie it tight otherwise the shift tube will just pop back out again I'd have to assume.


Edit: Nevermind, when I got full access with a light I could see the metal clip was still attached via a small side drill hole into the shift tube. Pulled that out, installed new rubber bushing/sleave and reinstalled metal clip. I believe that should be it. all back together now, have to put the interior back in place and I"ll give it a test run

RW964

I was reading this thread and I have been there and replaced the parts you all are talking about not saying this is a bad way but feels good to read this after I have been there as I was in a gas station and went to shift and nothing so a flat bed to the house and here I was doing the same thing as you, I got the same answers as you and did the same thing. Also what I did was about the same as Twood I made print of the pet and highlighted the parts I had changed out and dated and milage on the paper I have done the same replacing oil lines as a fast way to see what has been replaced. As for the cups on parts 15 and 16 I used the 928 parts and they have been working great, I picked up the trick here in the forums, Good work