Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

964 Refurb

Old 03-10-2013, 06:36 PM
  #1  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default 964 Refurb

Well, rather than post in spurts on my various findings and activities I thought I'd just run a single thread detailing the refurb of my car. Its not necessarily in the actual order I've done things but will hopefully be of use to someone :-)



Old 03-10-2013, 06:54 PM
  #2  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Well today was a tough day in the garage!



The car fought me on every bolt. I'm removing all the front suspension subframe and rack. Although the casting don't show much in the way of corrosion the bolts that fasten with threads into the sub frame certainly do. Not a single part of the frame came out without at least one bolt shearing. This was majorly time consuming. This here shows the main cross-member and you can see the two sheared bolts to which the rear part of the wishbone sub-frame attaches.



The others I managed to get out even if some did shear. The corrosion on the threads within the castings is strong enough to cause this - its incredible. On close inspection you can see the white oxide in the thread, and as hard as concrete. Getting these two out is still "work in progress'. The only remaining parts of these bolts within the casting is their shanks. They're not even threaded and yet I still can't knock them through! I'm going to try and press them out with a hydraulic press once the rack is off.



Although separating the rack from the frame could also be a problem. Of the four bolts holding it on, 2 sheared their heads whilst the other 2 rounded their hex key Same problem, oxide corrosion of the threads. I've since managed to drill out 2 at one end and remove the clamp, but the other 2 are chewing up my drill bits. Having these bolts screw directly into the the casting just doesn't seem a good idea. I've managed to save the threads on the two I've just extracted but I thinking I may drill them out and fit steel threaded inserts so I don't ever have to go through this again! - Thoughts on that ?
Old 03-10-2013, 07:03 PM
  #3  
freedman
Three Wheelin'
 
freedman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bromley, Kent
Posts: 1,767
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Wow, thats some brave stuff there!

Good luck with it, and keep us up to sate with progress
Old 03-10-2013, 07:07 PM
  #4  
theporscheguy
Rennlist Member
 
theporscheguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,844
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Nice looking 964. Looks like you are starting on a major project.
Old 03-10-2013, 07:22 PM
  #5  
james_marshall
Rennlist Member
 
james_marshall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Stockport uk
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I suddenly don't feel like starting my project! Sounds epic?!?!
Old 03-10-2013, 07:26 PM
  #6  
Porsche964FP
Drifting
 
Porsche964FP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: London UK
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Great looking car. Subscribed. I'm West London also - what borough you in?
Old 03-10-2013, 07:34 PM
  #7  
911 Crazy
SPAM addict
Rennlist Member
 
911 Crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Acadia National Park, Northeast Harbor, Maine
Posts: 30,276
Received 20 Likes on 18 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Porsche964FP
Great looking car. Subscribed. I'm West London also - what borough you in?
Bad *** 964 you've got there!
Old 03-10-2013, 07:43 PM
  #8  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Hi, I'm in Ealing :-)

> Looks like you are starting on a major project.

lol - Ya, and it gets bigger every day. The car is pretty stripped now. The good news is I don't have to touch the engine since it had a full rebuild (including split case) just a few K ago. I'm now going through *everything* else and sorting things as I find them. It may take a while but its far better to do everything like this in one go whilst everythings apart. I've got a nice shiny set of KW3's and powerflex bushes to go on but want to media blast the subframe first and replace all the usual stuff like balljoints and go for stainless brake hoses. I'm also converting the powersteering to an electric pump.



Old 03-10-2013, 07:50 PM
  #9  
Vandit
Nordschleife Master
 
Vandit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 5,614
Likes: 0
Received 47 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by robt964


The others I managed to get out even if some did shear. The corrosion on the threads within the castings is strong enough to cause this - its incredible. On close inspection you can see the white oxide in the thread, and as hard as concrete. Getting these two out is still "work in progress'. The only remaining parts of these bolts within the casting is their shanks. They're not even threaded and yet I still can't knock them through! I'm going to try and press them out with a hydraulic press once the rack is off.
I was about to point out that fact, those are just pass-through holes. What a friggin' trip!


Originally Posted by robt964


Although separating the rack from the frame could also be a problem. Of the four bolts holding it on, 2 sheared their heads whilst the other 2 rounded their hex key Same problem, oxide corrosion of the threads. I've since managed to drill out 2 at one end and remove the clamp, but the other 2 are chewing up my drill bits. Having these bolts screw directly into the the casting just doesn't seem a good idea. I've managed to save the threads on the two I've just extracted but I thinking I may drill them out and fit steel threaded inserts so I don't ever have to go through this again! - Thoughts on that ?
I was having this same thought earlier this week when I mistakenly thought I had stripped out one of these threaded rack holes in the crossmember, luckily that didn't turn out to be the case. I really dodged a bullet there.
Old 03-10-2013, 08:16 PM
  #10  
Lemass Automotive
Rennlist Member
 
Lemass Automotive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Stoke Poges, UK
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Really going to town on that. I take it a full bare shell respray is occurring?
If you need any help/advice I'm only about 20 mins from you. Although you seem to be very capable. Interested to see the outcome
Old 03-10-2013, 08:18 PM
  #11  
Porsche964FP
Drifting
 
Porsche964FP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: London UK
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 911 Crazy
Bad *** 964 you've got there!
Cheers,

Originally Posted by robt964
Hi, I'm in Ealing :-)
I'm on the edge of Acton in Chiswick. If you need an extra pair of hands let us know - I dropped in KWV3 also.
Old 03-11-2013, 06:20 AM
  #12  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Thanks chaps,

I will most certainly be calling on your wisdom :-) I've built a few cars before but this is the first Porsche. I building this one as a keeper.

>a full respray on cards

I'm not sure yet. Both the engine rebuild and a glass-out respray were carried out by the PO 2 years ago. However I'm finding a few areas of 'craftsmanship' that I'm not entirely happy with hand having to redo. Both wings had been off before as the underseal had been hacked clear. A pi$$ poor job had been done on making good with just a slap of black paint :-( The regular rust point at the top corners under the wing where it meets the screen panel looks ok but its just far too perfect and flat which raises my suspicions. I chipped away at a bit of it on the edge of a bolt hole. I found surface rust so decided to continue until I met clean metal. I didn't for some time AND found a hole :-( Grrrr. I can't stand it when things are botched like this. I now suspect there to be more there than I originally thought. If they were prepared to filler over the rust I have to assume the window surround will need some degree of addressing. Needless to say the screen will come out later so that further investigation can continue. At best my chipping and scratching finds nothing more and the repair is simple. At worst.... There just really is no point putting stuff together until its right. I have no issue with jobs taking longer than you hoped but I hate having to do things twice!
Old 03-11-2013, 01:34 PM
  #13  
CBR786
Pro
 
CBR786's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Birmingham UK
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

SUSBSCRIBED

good work going on however I do not envy you working from a lock up and using a kipor genny for power source I guess this is London living for you. Make sure you have them thermals on snowing in Birmingham. Good luck with rebuild. Keep up the good fight.
Old 03-11-2013, 07:38 PM
  #14  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

The garage is about 30 meters from the house so too far really to run a cord. I can't wire it to the mains either since the cable would have to cross 2 of my neighbor's gardens. I make do :-)

Well tonight I attacked the remains of the bolt shanks stuck in the sub-frame. I pushed them out with the press and it took... are you ready.... 6 tons of pressure before they cracked free!!!! Holy Moly!!!
(sorry for the grainy night shots... its erm night time and v cold)



What would I do differently next time? Quite a bit. If the subframe bolts don't feel like they've loosened much following a quarter turn with the bar I'd STOP! The corrosion has locked them solid. I would then get hold of an impact wrench and at least have a go with that. There is a slim chance you might get lucky. I don't have an impact wrench but I'm certainly going to get one now before attempting the rear suspension.

I also drilled the heads off the last two rounded allen head bolts off the rack clamp. The rack and cross member are now separated :-)



I'm left with the tedious task again of drilling the remnants out. At least with the rack out of the way it will now fit under the pillar drill.

Old 03-12-2013, 08:03 PM
  #15  
robt964
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
robt964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bucks
Posts: 1,609
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Quick, rather boring update...

The last two pig-of-a-bolts are out :-) The longer of the two was subjected to a blow torch for 5 mins which then loosened it sufficient that I could turn it out with a pair of mole-grips. The 2nd was rather more tricky. I had to cobble together a jig out of wood that would hold the frame such that the bottom end of the bolt was perfectly vertical before drilling it through on the pillar drill. I bought some cobalt drill bits today. Man, they're great and just chewed through it :-)
In the end I only needed to put a helicoil into one of the threads. The rest were undamaged and needed nothing more than a tap run through them to clean them up. Result! :-)

More fun tasks can now resume like removing the bushes from the wishbones.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 964 Refurb



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:14 PM.