rear spoiler update with questions
#1
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Thread Starter
rear spoiler update with questions
ok just to update everyone here is what I have and am in doing
90 c2
po removed rear tail ,harness, light bulb from clock, and manual switch
I have now put back to as stock as possible including, all the tail and mechanicals, rear engine lid harness, manual switch,
I have since tested the micro switchs, (tested good) motor (tested good),manual switch (tested good)
I have plugged everything in and tested . So far I have up function with the manual switch and no down function. I have tested the down relay in the module and functions properly if I manually activate it but will not work any other way.
I am unable to drive the car at the moment because of salt on the roads etc so I am not sure if it works automatically as of yet but I do know that if I test #5 on the switch connector to the plug with the corresponding color wire that connects to the controll module it has 5m ohms resistance again this is the down side.
so with all of that babling what does any of this mean? Experts? please help
90 c2
po removed rear tail ,harness, light bulb from clock, and manual switch
I have now put back to as stock as possible including, all the tail and mechanicals, rear engine lid harness, manual switch,
I have since tested the micro switchs, (tested good) motor (tested good),manual switch (tested good)
I have plugged everything in and tested . So far I have up function with the manual switch and no down function. I have tested the down relay in the module and functions properly if I manually activate it but will not work any other way.
I am unable to drive the car at the moment because of salt on the roads etc so I am not sure if it works automatically as of yet but I do know that if I test #5 on the switch connector to the plug with the corresponding color wire that connects to the controll module it has 5m ohms resistance again this is the down side.
so with all of that babling what does any of this mean? Experts? please help
#2
Rennlist Member
You should be getting zero ohms from #5 at the rotary switch ( green/black) to #10 at the module.
It should be the same as the extending circuit - #3 at the switch (green/red) to #9 at the module.
It looks like you have an open in the circuit.
It should be the same as the extending circuit - #3 at the switch (green/red) to #9 at the module.
It looks like you have an open in the circuit.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
ok so is that just simply a wire leading from thr switch to the module? meaning can just run a new wire or does it go some other device before leading to the switch and then the module?
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
#6
Rennlist Member
The wire is in parallel to the "relay" module SilverTarga mentions. It would be a good location to check the continuity of this wire.. That relay module is a source of emergency signal to raise the spoiler in case the other module fails. That functionality was deemed unnecessary by Porsche and was removed from the circuit in later years.
This additional module is located under the passenger seat if I recall correctly, near the cruise control module
This additional module is located under the passenger seat if I recall correctly, near the cruise control module
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#8
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Thread Starter
cool thanks I willing to bet that would be the issue or non issue for that matter as the car has not been (above 40mph since I got it) driven to reset the system .. is the second relay worth worring about or is there a bypass rework out there somewhere?
#9
Rennlist Member
Not sure about a rework of the additional module, but in the very least, the spoiler should work manually. Further check of the high resistance on the retract circuit needs to be done. At least you know the motor and gearing works, limits are working, not sure of the spoiler module until you drive the car...
#10
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Thread Starter
interesting enough I removed the clock(resolder) and now I dont see the same resistance values though I could have moved the broken wire at the same time? who knows but I am hoping that I will get the car out next week if we get a good rain to clean off the salt and try it out.
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
ok update drove the car for the first time since I bought it. resoldered a bunch of cold solder joints and it rasies by itself but will not lower by iteself or with the switch so it looks like the module is the issue. now anyone know what a rebuilt one costs or any rennlisters got some insight for DIY?
#12
Rennlist Member
Ben,
Are you still able to retract the spoiler by manually pushing in the relay on the module?
Also, I see from your first post that you checked both limits, but I'm not sure how.....
Do this: put the spoiler midway open so that neither limit is met. Pull module from connector and use your VOM set to resistance and measure from #10 to #5, and #9 to #5 in the female plug. You should read a high or open on both readings, verifying that the retract limit is not met. If a reading is low, than the limit is stuck closed, defeating that direction.
I want to be sure it's not simply your retract limit blocking the closing of the spoiler, because that has been the source for many.
What is the part number of your module? I have mine out of the car and can compare resistances of components in circuit to narrow down a fault BC337 or relay coil, etc.
Are you still able to retract the spoiler by manually pushing in the relay on the module?
Also, I see from your first post that you checked both limits, but I'm not sure how.....
Do this: put the spoiler midway open so that neither limit is met. Pull module from connector and use your VOM set to resistance and measure from #10 to #5, and #9 to #5 in the female plug. You should read a high or open on both readings, verifying that the retract limit is not met. If a reading is low, than the limit is stuck closed, defeating that direction.
I want to be sure it's not simply your retract limit blocking the closing of the spoiler, because that has been the source for many.
What is the part number of your module? I have mine out of the car and can compare resistances of components in circuit to narrow down a fault BC337 or relay coil, etc.
#13
Rennlist Member
If you have a 12vdc power source and jumpers, DIY is here
https://rennlist.com/forums/3704925-post15.html
PM Springer3 and see if he can help you out, either with a known good but used unit or repairing it. As a last resort you can send the module to me and I'll test/ fix it - no charge, as per usual.
https://rennlist.com/forums/3704925-post15.html
PM Springer3 and see if he can help you out, either with a known good but used unit or repairing it. As a last resort you can send the module to me and I'll test/ fix it - no charge, as per usual.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks I will check it out right now the car is dead i drove it sunday and it died on me so troubleshooting that first. Not good but it looks like fuel related
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
ok gonna check this out is the 92 the same basically as the 90 setup? I assume so. I did figure my car out and it is running again it had a bad coil so back on topic