johnbtrask

I knew it was time to replace the throttle cable on my '92 C2 the first time it got stuck on the freeway. (Turning off the ignition is a little touchy since you don't want to lock the steering, and then reaching down to pull the pedal back, all the while quickly moving to the right shoulder.)

Needless to say I immediately red tagged the car until I could discover what the problem was.

Couldn't find much information on this subject except for a small drawing in the Porsche parts catalog, so what follows is how it did the job.

To gain access to the cable it's necessary to remove the under body covers for the fuel pump, the center tunnel, and the transmission. Inside remove the driver side floor mat and the wooden pedal cluster cover.

The cable has a ball and socket fitting screwed onto the pedal end and a sliding barrel shaped stop in a plastic cradle like fitting at the throttle body end. (See pictures)

To remove the cable you must first disconnect the throttle body end to get enough slack to work on the front pedal end. Snap the plastic cradle out and slide it through the slot in the throttle arm. (Before you let it go tie about five feet of tough string to it so you can fish the new cable back up from under the car and through the firewall- It's really a confined space with very little in the way of access or visibility.) Disconnect the front end at the peddle, (Very awkward even with seat all the way back.) I snapped the linkage out of the back of the peddle and bent the bell crank a little so it would clear the stop and be easier to get hold of. The fitting is held on the ball by a small spring clip. Remove the clip and ball from the bell crank and then unscrew the lock nut and fitting.

Lift the A/C lines out of the way and with your other hand follow the rear end of the cable down and push the large rubber end of the cable guide free of the bracket. Now from under the car you can slide the tunnel tube end fitting off and pull the bare cable out. Once it's free pull the rear end down and out from the engine compartment and over the transmission. Untie the string from the old cable and onto the new one. It's an easy matter now to just pull the new cable back into the engine compartment. Make sure that it is positioned next to the transmission case well clear of the axle, and tie wrap it in place. Push the threaded end of the cable into the center tunnel guide tube, and slide the adjuster fitting onto the end. (I reset it at the same position the old one was at which seemed to be fine)
Reattach the socket fitting and lock nut to the bell crank, and bend it back in shape making sure that once the pedal is reattached it has full travel without touching the center tunnel. In the engine compartment spray the large end of the cable guide end grommet with silicon lubricant, and work it back into the hole in the retainer bracket (I was afraid this was really going to be a problem but with a little twisting and pulling it snapped back into position without to much effort)

Now confirm that when the pedal is fully depressed the throttle is full open. Place all the covers and you're done. Total time about three hours, (I'm sure it would be a lot easier if I could have put the car up on a lift instead of jack stands.)

Marc Shaw

I assume the old one is the lower - was it mashed like that (hence the problem) or did it get like that with the replacement?

Nice write-up!

Marc

johnbtrask

Yes the top one is new. The the damage occurred in use. I have no idea how. (The engine was rebuilt just before I bought the car, and it's possible that the damage began at that point. I had other problems as a result of the way that job was done. It's almost impossible to see the throttle end of the cable on the car - I guess that's what happens when you shoe horn a redesigned engine into a chassis that was essentially designed for a 4 cylinder carburetor equipped engine.) I've got over 200k miles on the vehicle, I suspect that the cable sheath worked loose from the end fitting and the flaying is the result of free movement.

Feudal Serf

Very Helpful thread. Replaced my throttle cable yesterday evening. Took 2 hours.
Car was red flagged when the cable stuck and had to shut off ignition while driving.
Symptoms were, 1 hard to start all of a sudden. I now realize the cable was sticking and the idle microswitch wasn't engaging. Then i felt a crunchiness to throttle application. Then stuck throttle, which could have been hairy if I didn't react fast.

Tips.
I cut the frayed cable on the throttle side of the engine bracket.
identified the correct hole in engine tin and fed the cable down alongside the old cable before pulling old cable.
Didn't need to remove heater fan. But was tight to get a hand in.
Didn't need to remove centre tunnel panel underneath
Pulled the clip on the bell crank which allowed more space to work on the socket fitting.

cheers
FS

Michael D'Silva

I need some help with this!
I recently removed my motor/trans to change gaskets, do valves, etc...

First time ever.

I decided it was easier to undo the throttle cable at the engine end, instead of the pedal.

When I went to put the motor back in today, I was unsure about the routing of the cable... (mines a tiptronic).. does the cable go under the trans mount, or over it?
I ended up putting it over the trans mount, but i still dont have enough slack.. the throttle wont return to idle..
When re-installing the motor, I've fed the cable through the engine tin, and used the grommet, then routed it through the brass coloured plate, with grommet, then seated the ferrule in the throttle arm.

When I removed the engine, I'm not certain that the cable was routed through the brass part.. wondering if that is where I am going wrong?

Michael D'Silva

update, I tried NOT routing it through the support plate just below the throttle linkage...
Yes it idles fine, but now there is too much play in the throttle pedal... and I cannot get full throttle.

So... I need to mount the rubber grommet back into the support plate, but now I'm not sure why my cable is suddenly shorter?

Feudal Serf

Just making a guess here since you are reattaching the cable that has already been adjusted but there is some slack somewhere.

Try this link.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...djustment.html

When fitting the cable through the guide tube the plastic fitting might not have been pushed in hard enough. Or that secondary adjuster was twisted and thus shortened when removing the cable.

Also I have read here somewhere that there are 2 openings in the engine tin. One for the manual and one for the tiptronic

Cheers
FS



Try

Michael D'Silva

Thanks for the link...
When I removed the motor, I didn't pull the inner cable from the sheath... I undid the cable at the motor end... all I did was unclip the black clip that holds the ball, pushed the rubber grommet through and slid the motor out.

I really don't remember seeing 2 holes in the engine tin for the cable to slide through on reinstallation.
But I think my routing of the cable from the tunnel, around the trans mount, around the transmission, may have taken up some length... I'l have another good look when I get another day off.

deactivateduser66

I've been trying to find the part number for that black plastic clip that holds the ball, any ideas?

Busta Rib

Reviving an old thread...anyone know the part number for the black clip that holds the end of the cable on the throttle body? Can't find it in the PET. TIA.