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Old 05-13-2009, 12:21 AM   #1
Jasko
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Default front fender removal

Someone had posted a question about how to remove the front fender awhile back. While I had mine off, it seemed like a good time to take a few pics to share for DIYers.

Basically, there are a few 10mm bolts holding from inside the front trunk, two 5mm allen bolts behind the door, three 8mm bolts holding to the front bumper cover, and several 10mm bolts inside the wheel well, behind the tire. Also four screws hold the fuel filler cup to the fender. You also need to remove the fuel well cover, and disconnect the fuel lid release pullcord.

There is one bolt high behind the fuel filler cup, that is hard to get to.

When all bolts are off, you have to peel the fender away because of the stickiness of the seam filler

Hope this helps
Dave J
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:58 AM   #2
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excellent! thanks. I need to replace the cowl to fender bead, and was wondering how I would loosen the fender to do the deed.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:23 AM   #3
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I replaced the cowl seal last year and my fender had a tack weld the area of the green circle.

If you are removing the fender be aware that this tack weld may exist.
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:33 PM   #4
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Stephen is right - I have heard of some others with spot welds there. I didn't find a weld on either side. Mine is a '89, and tends to be a little different.

Dave
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:16 PM   #5
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Here is what the tack weld looks like on my 89. I think the weld is random and was only done as needed during assembly. That little weld made the cowl seal replacement very "fun".
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:38 PM   #6
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Other than the little(?) tack-weld issue, what is required to replace the cowl-fender bead? how many bolts need to be removed to open up the gap?
This is one of those little improvement projects that I am not sure is worth the effort/risk.
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Old 05-13-2009, 03:21 PM   #7
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The two 5mm allen bolts are a pain to get to. The one bolt in the front requires a universal knuckle to get to, and it's easier if you remove the door. The rubber gasket encloses the front bolt, so that one needs to come out to replace the gasket. You probably need to loosen some of the 10mm bolts as well. And i'm not sure if the seam sealer may not give enough to get the gasket back in. Its not too much effort to try it however.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:53 PM   #8
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I had heard about the notorious spot weld. Thanks for the pictures clearly indicating where to look.
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:34 PM   #9
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I delt with this last year, but I was working on the passenger side. The spot weld is in a very tight spot, and then the trick is to not think that the fender is going to just lift off even with all the bolts out. These fenders are on there SOLID from the factory!!! With the fender bead, if you can get the fender to move a little bit you can remove the old one without taking off the entire fender. You just need to yank it out, but when you go to put the replacement one in, you will want to modify it a little bit. There is a hole in the back part of the seal and you will need to cut a slot straight down so that it can slip around the bolt.

And as a side note, getting the 2 5mm allen head bolts out was not nearly as bad as getting the damn things back in. I ended up going through the forn gap oof the door with the door opened up...after putting protective masking tape around the back of the fender and the door

Scott
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:34 PM
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