ThunderC4S

I recently noticed that my A/C was not cold anymore and on further investigation the a/c compressor was not engaging when the a/c was switched on from the CCU.

Anyway, I was looking around the compressor area in the engine bay with my flashlight and I found that the electrical spade connector from the a/c compressor clutch had come off completely from the engine bay harness. I crimped it tight again and pushed it back on the spade connector.

I took the car out for a spin again - and I have full COLD a/c.

Rgds,

ThunderC4S

elbeee964

That lone compressor wire, snaking in from the oil filter area, always looks out of place to me.
Esp. compared to the 'clean sheet' wire routings seen elsewhere around the engine.

(Like someone said the night before the wire-routing design went golden, "Who 'ran' the A/C clutch wire? 'Cuz I don't see it...")

jimq

that happens alot during oil filter changes.

ThunderC4S

I think the issue is the design of the connector Porsche used. Simple spade connectors are prone to becoming loose (requiring you to close up the gap on the male connector side).

They probably should have used a more postivite lock male-female type connector.

suezen

Sorry for opening up this old thread again, my compressor does not engage so I may have the same problem. I would really appreciate if someone of you could post a picture of the connector or describe more in detail where I shall look, since I have problems locating it.

/Anders

jimq

look for a wire coming off the compressor that runs to the right side.

brogich

I can only hope I have this same problem. Mine isnt engageing either.

boxsey911

I read on here that if everything electrical is working and the clutch won't engage the system is low on gas and a recharge should solve the problem. And if that doesn't work it's time for a new compressor. I therefore decided to manage without

bmohr

okay, my ac looks nothing like jimq's pic above. I only see one black plastic covered inlet on the face of the compressor to the lower right (below the pulley). I assume that is where you recharge the system? I'm working blind here. Maybe i'll take a pic when I get home, but the deal is i've confirmed i'm getting juice to the wire, and wire is making contact with compressor power lead. Confirmed 7.5 fuse is good. Have not located the relay yet. Light does turn on with a/c button is depressed. No audiable clicks. But a new fan noise is heard in drivers side dash. I have to assume the system needs a recharge as it hasn't been used in decades, and thus probably have bad seals, but can I charge this thing myself to see what the state is, or do i need a shop to do it? TIA aircon gurus

also: anyone have a pic of where the pressure cutoff switch is located? I can't see anything that looks like a switch on my hose routes.

jimq

my compressor is a replacement and not the same as factory. The location of the wire is the same tho.

Silvertarga

system needs a recharge as it hasn't been used in decades,

System is likely empty as the seals will dry out and leak if it is not used,
The juice in these is R-12 and no longer available to the general public

Looks like its time for you to convert to R-134 (you will need to replace the receiver/dryer after flushing out the system)

You can try it at home but since the system has been down so long its best left to a pro..

bmohr

Thanks Silver, i seriously might just consider yanking this piece of metal out of my car if I need to do all that. It sounds expensive. Any price quotes from members who have done this in the recent past?

altarchsa

Mine is like yours, and yes that's where you charge the system.

An activated low pressure switch will result in no response (audible clicks) when you turn the system on.

In U.S., you're required by law to capture refrigerant when working on a system, and you're even prohibited from putting refrigerant in a system that's known to leak, I believe.

Having said that, if you had a gauge on a filler hose (they sell them at Walmart, some already on the refrigerant can) to assure there's not another issue causing the problem and that you're not overfilling the system, you could see if the system is low and, if it is, put a can or two in to get the pressure up to operating level. Then, if it works, watch to see if it has a leak. You could use the refrigerant that has leak stop and/or seal conditioner to treat any minor issues you might have. This has worked on mine every year or so. It must have a really slow leak.

Perfectionists, please don't hate on me for suggesting the shade tree mechanic approach instead of refinancing the car in order to be able to afford the A/C shop.

Also, there is an electrical rheostat on a ceramic base on the condenser fan in the left front wheel well that is a common fault. It deteriorates due to its proximity to the gas vent from the battery. Mine and others have been described to crumble in your hand when removed. I think the system will not function if this circuit is interrupted. I temporarily (uh, two years ago) hot wired mine to the high speed wiring side to get the system working until I could replace the rheostat .

Good luck.

C24FUN

I did the R134A changeover soon after I bought my car in 2001. I went to a local A/C shop and explained what I was doing and the boss there gave me new green O-rings for the areas that were easily accessible on the car (ends of the hoses at the compressor, at the receiver/dryer, maybe at the A/C radiator?). After I changed these I took the car to his shop and he charged it up. It's been good ever since with the exception of a refrigerant top-up in 2006.

The whole process was pretty painless and cost about $250 ($200 for the fill and $50 for a new receiver/dryer obtained from my local parts store).

Unless you are a track junkie, looking to shed every extra pound from the car or you live in Iceland and have no use at all for A/C I can't see the point of not keeping it in the car and having it working properly.

Just my 2 cents worth!

Cheers!

Jim G.

altarchsa

Uh-huh. (It was 95 here day before yesterday.)