Power Steering Seal Leak
09-11-2006, 10:42 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Power Steering Seal Leak
I've discovered an oil leak which I believe to be coming from the power steering pump seals. I've searched the various threads and have come up with a pretty good idea of how to proceed. I've documented what I've found along with some tips, pics and threads. I have one question about using the muffler bracket to brace the pulley for removal.
Question
Docs
Torques
Threads
Tips
Step by Step by porschedude
Pics
Question
- How do I use the muffler bracket to brace the lower pulley in order to remove the bolt that attaches it to the cam shaft? Pictures would help; I know, seems like a long shot, but thought I'd ask.
Docs
- Bentley 964 Handbook has an excellent writeup (48-5)
- PET 108-00
Torques
- 88 ft-lb (120 Nm) Power steering pump toothed wheel to right camshaft
Threads
- Power Steering Cam Shaft Seal on 10-10-2005
- some good tips from garrett376; and others - Oil leak near power steering pump; DIY fix or not? on 1-15-03
- Power Steering Housing Seal Installation on 03-26-2003
- Power Steering seal leak on 11/08/02 and
- porschedude wrote a nice step by step procedure that several folks used and liked
Tips
- You do not need to remove the oil line to replace the seal and O-ring
- Loosen the oil pump by removing just the rear lower left hex nut; You don't
need to undo any other screws or lines - Get to the top PS pump nuts from the top. you have to do it blind but its
doable. remove the belt first. - The pulley bolt is a normal screw - counterclockwise to remove.
- The muffler hanger works great to remove the lower pulley bolt - or you can
strike it with a hammer - the torque value is not that high - Once the pulley is removed, just move things aside and remove the bolts to
release the cover from the engine. - Install seal (not o-ring) with the flat portion facing the toothed sprocket
side and the open side to slide over the cam - Lightly oil BOTH o-ring and seal and make sure the lip doesn't "roll"
towards you when placing over the camshaft end...oil GREATLY assists in
this endeavor - Seals are meant to be installed after everthing's in place - so replace the
o-ring, put the cover plate back on, then install the seal before the
pulley goes on - use the old seal on top of the new seal to bang it into
place so you don't damage the new seal. You can also used a large socket to
put even force on it. And place some oil on the inner lining before
installing it - that way you don't burn it up right away!
Step by Step by porschedude
You will most likely make a mess with the power steering fluid, it's a given...
You don't need to lower the engine.
Bottom of Car Preps
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove Secondary Muffler.
4. Remove Secondary Muffler Bracket from front of engine.
5. Disconnect 25mm rubber oil supply hose in front of Power Steering Pump (PSP).
6. Remove flat PSP belt cover. (Three 6mm bolts)
7. Remove center bolt on drive sprocket to remove sprocket. (Note that this has no keyway.)
7a. Remove small odd shaped metal engine tin in front of PSP case.
Top of Car Preps
8. Remove air cleaner cover and element.
9. Remove top two allan head nuts from driven end of Power Steering Pump.
10. Remove PSP belt cover (Black Plastic, held on by above).
11. Remove two more hex nuts below the first two allan head nuts.
12. Line engine area with rags to absorb PS Fluid.
13. Siphon Power Steering Fluid from reservoir.
14. Remove clamp around PS Reservoir.
15. Loosen hose clamp at pump enough to rotate the hose with the reservoir still attached.
16. You may need to disconnect the fuel line to allow the pump to come free.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the pump from the car completely, I do it for better access and to clean up the mess I have made.
17. Remove the Banjo Bolt (Hollow Bolt) on the PSP pressure output line on PSP.
Case Removal Bottom of Car
18. Loosen three 6mm bolts from inside the cover.
19. Walk the cover off the engine.
20. Remove lip seal from cover and clean in soapy water. Simple Green works real well.
21. Install new seal with some hardening sealant (In this case I like good old Permatex or Yamabond Case Sealant from Yamaha Motorcycle Dealer.)
Note: I used non-OEM parts because the OEM parts were not made of Viton. Viton is a higher temperature material than the standard Neoprene rubber.
OEM Part Numbers if you must:
999.113.463.40 Seal [30mm x 42mm x 7mm]
999.707.293.40 O-Ring [40mm x 4mm]
Reassembly
22. Reassemble in reverse order. Caution when installing the PSP case. Keep it straight during installation to protect the lip seal. One can damage it during installation! I speak from experience…
23. Torque bolt on drive sprocket.
Start-Up
24. Caution, run engine and monitor PS Fluid level and keep it full. About 30 seconds on the first start-up to ensure you don’t cavitate the PSP.
Best of Luck, Keith
You don't need to lower the engine.
Bottom of Car Preps
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands.
2. Drain engine oil.
3. Remove Secondary Muffler.
4. Remove Secondary Muffler Bracket from front of engine.
5. Disconnect 25mm rubber oil supply hose in front of Power Steering Pump (PSP).
6. Remove flat PSP belt cover. (Three 6mm bolts)
7. Remove center bolt on drive sprocket to remove sprocket. (Note that this has no keyway.)
7a. Remove small odd shaped metal engine tin in front of PSP case.
Top of Car Preps
8. Remove air cleaner cover and element.
9. Remove top two allan head nuts from driven end of Power Steering Pump.
10. Remove PSP belt cover (Black Plastic, held on by above).
11. Remove two more hex nuts below the first two allan head nuts.
12. Line engine area with rags to absorb PS Fluid.
13. Siphon Power Steering Fluid from reservoir.
14. Remove clamp around PS Reservoir.
15. Loosen hose clamp at pump enough to rotate the hose with the reservoir still attached.
16. You may need to disconnect the fuel line to allow the pump to come free.
Note: It is not necessary to remove the pump from the car completely, I do it for better access and to clean up the mess I have made.
17. Remove the Banjo Bolt (Hollow Bolt) on the PSP pressure output line on PSP.
Case Removal Bottom of Car
18. Loosen three 6mm bolts from inside the cover.
19. Walk the cover off the engine.
20. Remove lip seal from cover and clean in soapy water. Simple Green works real well.
21. Install new seal with some hardening sealant (In this case I like good old Permatex or Yamabond Case Sealant from Yamaha Motorcycle Dealer.)
Note: I used non-OEM parts because the OEM parts were not made of Viton. Viton is a higher temperature material than the standard Neoprene rubber.
OEM Part Numbers if you must:
999.113.463.40 Seal [30mm x 42mm x 7mm]
999.707.293.40 O-Ring [40mm x 4mm]
Reassembly
22. Reassemble in reverse order. Caution when installing the PSP case. Keep it straight during installation to protect the lip seal. One can damage it during installation! I speak from experience…
23. Torque bolt on drive sprocket.
Start-Up
24. Caution, run engine and monitor PS Fluid level and keep it full. About 30 seconds on the first start-up to ensure you don’t cavitate the PSP.
Best of Luck, Keith
Last edited by dfinnegan; 09-11-2006 at 10:45 PM. Reason: fixed links
09-12-2006, 05:20 PM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
There are three bolts (item 4a above) behind the lower pulley. The shop manual indicates to replace or user loctite 270. I can't seem to source these bolts. Well, they are on back order from Sunset from Germany.
Have folks re-used these bolts? Do you recommend using the loctite and, if so, how difficult are they to remove later?
Finally, I went to purchase loctite 270 in case I decided to use it and was told "they don't use numbers anymore" and was given Permatex instead. I didn't notice until I got home. I bought both the red (high strength) and blue (medium strength).
Would one of these be suitable if loctite is recommended on re-used bolts, and which one?
Thanks,
Dave
Have folks re-used these bolts? Do you recommend using the loctite and, if so, how difficult are they to remove later?
Finally, I went to purchase loctite 270 in case I decided to use it and was told "they don't use numbers anymore" and was given Permatex instead. I didn't notice until I got home. I bought both the red (high strength) and blue (medium strength).
Would one of these be suitable if loctite is recommended on re-used bolts, and which one?
Thanks,
Dave
