s.g.erickson

Help! I cannot seem to come up with the part numbers to replace these buttons on my 90 targa C2. Can anybody help! Thanks STeve

JasonAndreas

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;">944.653.922.00 tip switch Fresh Air

964.659.146.00 **** Blower Speed
01c black

944.653.205.00 **** Vent Selector

944.653.208.00 **** Temp Selector

944.653.921.00 tip switch Defrost</pre><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Your dealer needs to goto page 911c2.90.8.13.813-40 on their Pet CDROM.

s.g.erickson

Thanks for the info Jason. It has been a bear trying to find these caps. The numbers you gave me were for the whole swittches. Hopefully I can find just the cover but will buy the switch if I have to . Thanks again!
Steve

J-McDonald

I was told by the dealer that they only come complete with the switches - the covers are not available separately.

Ruairidh

Is it hard to replace the switches?

eddychan

Any chance of finding out the prices for these switch cover?
I also had the same problem but scanned the manual and made new stickers with the symbols and basically sticked on top of the old one. It seems to work but I do not know how long it lasts.
( My problem was merely caused by the previous owner who apparently had long and sharp finger nails )

eddie

JasonAndreas

A dealer in Oregon just got back to me with prices:

944.653.922.00 tip switch Fresh Air $36.79
964.659.146.00 01c **** Blower Speed $17.76 4-5 weeks away at this time
944.653.205.00 01c **** Vent Selector $8.61
944.653.208.00 01C **** Temp Selector $10.14
944.653.921.00 tip switch Defrost $68.59

Laker

My recirculation and defogger button on the right side of the CCU needed help. Although functioning, the icons were almost rubbed off, and the top recirculation button wasn't completely attached to the CCU and would pop off when I hit bumps. Porsche doesn't sell just the buttons, You need to buy the entire double switch. For my particular CCU, it was part number: 944-653-921-00.
Using radio removal tools, I slide the CCU out of the dash, gently pushing from behind. Leave a cloth underneath the CCU to protect the dash. Also watch out for the turn signal and cruise stalks when sliding the CCU out like a radio. There are two wire harnesses connected to the rear, they have a hinge and a snap on opposite sides of each connector. The layout of each plug is opposite the other plug with hinge and snap on opposite sides.
With the CCU free of the two wire harnesses, slide it out and bring it to your bench, or your knee.

Laker

While I was in here, I pulled off the air sampling fan at the rear, and blew out the cobwebs from the rubber tube that runs the length of the CCU. I unscrewed the two brass bolts, (top picture, 10 & 4 o'clock) dropped the fan unit off the CCU 'C" bracket and took the lid off the motor and cleaned and lubed the spindles. By the way, If the Scantool tells you code: '45 Inside temperature sensor fan', this is the fan that can get gunked up. It sucks in cabin air to measure the temperature. The nuts are held in place along the side of the plastic motor casing, but they can get loose and drop (4th picture).
The fan draws air from the long rubber tube (Last picture)

Laker

Meanwhile, back on the CCU, there are 6 black plastic tabs (3 on each side, 2 shown here, ovaled, which are pushed simultaneously to slide out the front. The only connections are the white ribbon cable connector (center-left) and the rubber tube for air sampling (far left) [Blue arrows]
Pry, then pull off the rotary control ***** and remove the 10mm nut under each rotary ****. (bottom)

Laker

The Front section that just slid off, splits into 3.
a black outer faceplate.
a clear plastic layer that holds the switches and
A green circuit board,
All are held in place with plastic clips. The switches snap into the clear plastic piece which snaps into the black faceplate. The green PCB 'plugs into' the switches and has the actual ***** and sliders.
After replacing the switch, slide the clear plastic lens back into the black plastic face, and slide the Print circuit board back onto the face. There are holes that line up on the PCB for the air volume sliders, rotary ***** and the switches on either side including the switch I just replaced. Make sure the PCB plugs in perfectly. ensuring all the holes and switch pins line up properly. The whole face now slides back in, also be careful with the air sampling temperature probe. (4th picture, upper right) It is just hanging off the PCB and needs to slide down the PCB's air tube before re-assemby. Replace the 10mm bolts around the rotary *****. The 4th picture shows the PCB and switches lined up but not inserted.

Laker

Hook and snap each of the 2 main harnesses in the rear and slide the CCU back in until it clicks.
The 'top' connector hinges on the right and snaps on the left, while the 'bottom' connector is the opposite

Vandit

Impressive write-up! I might be referring to it later since the Cold button on my CCU is pretty worn. I'm also missing a cap on one of the sliders. I was actually missing both until I found one under the seat. The other might still be in there somewhere.

GeorgeK

That switch 944 653 921 00 is now over 200$ from FVD (!)
And about 120$ for the AC switch.
I guess I'll repaint mine in black....

911Jetta

Mine too! I was hoping I could just glue/tape it in place...now I know better.
Huge thanks for the DIY you created.