Child's carseat top/center anchor install
10-19-2005, 12:12 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Child's carseat top/center anchor install
(Here goes...my first how-to post)
I finally added the anchor. The carseat fits better than it did, but still not as tight as in my wife's jeep. I am still looking at ways to improve the fit, but here is what I have finished so far.
This is an easy install!
Porsche rectangular cover caps: 911.555.627.00.01C ($3.50 each)
Ford anchor: 1C3Z-28613D74-AA ($6.50 each)
Below is all you need! 1/2" socket and 11/16 socket (forgot locktite, two 5/16-18 x 3/4 Grade 8 hex head cap screws and 2 Grade 8 5/16 flat washers in photo)
1. Remove rear seat panel screws (2 #6 x 1-1/2" oval head, black oxide screws and 2 #6 x 1" oval head, black oxide screws). Careful not to lose the washer here...I used cable ties to keep them attached to the panel as 3 of the 4 stuck to the panel.
2. Remove lower seatbelt bolts: pop off cap with a screw driver, then remove bolt. Use thread lock when replaceing. Removing the seatbelts allows you to remove the rear panel from car.
3. Pull rear panel out.
4. Cut into sound deadening material to expose metal frame (about 1" deep). You'll know where to cut as you will feel the rectangular knock-outs on the rear panel. Or, fold up jump seats, cut should be made in horizontal area above seat back, centeres with seat back.
5. Cut tape to expose weld nut.
I could't believe this, but these are 5/16-18 threads!!!
6. Score rectangle knock-outs (from rear), then pry out knock-out with a flat/regular screw driver. Do not cut exposed material on front (not hard to do)!
(in the above photo, the rectangular knock-out on the left had been removed-below speaker)
7. Cut the vinyl in an "X"-this will allow the rectangular cap to fit more tightly as it graps on the sides.
8. Remove bolt and tether from Ford anchor, leaving you with...
9. Install anchors (lip up) using 5/16-18 x 3/4 Gr8 HHCS and washer-I used thread locker here.
10. Install rear panel, 4 screws, and seatbelt brackets (thread locker used on seatbelt bolts.
Thanks to Marc Shaw and William Reinecke for all the help and guidance. I bought a Cosco Touriva carseat ($40) to install. It is relatively tight using the metal seatbelt bracket provided, but I am still working to make it tighter. My wifes Britax Marathon ($250) is much larger, but locks down tighter because of the onboard shoulder seatbelt locking mechanism-really cool-no need for thet pesky metal bracket.
I will update with carseat photos when I am finished.
FYI: great time to install new speakers with the panel out...shhhh!
Pioneer 3-way 4"x6"s ($90)...noticable difference with stock cd player.
I finally added the anchor. The carseat fits better than it did, but still not as tight as in my wife's jeep. I am still looking at ways to improve the fit, but here is what I have finished so far.
This is an easy install!
Porsche rectangular cover caps: 911.555.627.00.01C ($3.50 each)
Ford anchor: 1C3Z-28613D74-AA ($6.50 each)
Below is all you need! 1/2" socket and 11/16 socket (forgot locktite, two 5/16-18 x 3/4 Grade 8 hex head cap screws and 2 Grade 8 5/16 flat washers in photo)
1. Remove rear seat panel screws (2 #6 x 1-1/2" oval head, black oxide screws and 2 #6 x 1" oval head, black oxide screws). Careful not to lose the washer here...I used cable ties to keep them attached to the panel as 3 of the 4 stuck to the panel.
2. Remove lower seatbelt bolts: pop off cap with a screw driver, then remove bolt. Use thread lock when replaceing. Removing the seatbelts allows you to remove the rear panel from car.
3. Pull rear panel out.
4. Cut into sound deadening material to expose metal frame (about 1" deep). You'll know where to cut as you will feel the rectangular knock-outs on the rear panel. Or, fold up jump seats, cut should be made in horizontal area above seat back, centeres with seat back.
5. Cut tape to expose weld nut.
I could't believe this, but these are 5/16-18 threads!!!
6. Score rectangle knock-outs (from rear), then pry out knock-out with a flat/regular screw driver. Do not cut exposed material on front (not hard to do)!
(in the above photo, the rectangular knock-out on the left had been removed-below speaker)
7. Cut the vinyl in an "X"-this will allow the rectangular cap to fit more tightly as it graps on the sides.
8. Remove bolt and tether from Ford anchor, leaving you with...
9. Install anchors (lip up) using 5/16-18 x 3/4 Gr8 HHCS and washer-I used thread locker here.
10. Install rear panel, 4 screws, and seatbelt brackets (thread locker used on seatbelt bolts.
Thanks to Marc Shaw and William Reinecke for all the help and guidance. I bought a Cosco Touriva carseat ($40) to install. It is relatively tight using the metal seatbelt bracket provided, but I am still working to make it tighter. My wifes Britax Marathon ($250) is much larger, but locks down tighter because of the onboard shoulder seatbelt locking mechanism-really cool-no need for thet pesky metal bracket.
I will update with carseat photos when I am finished.
FYI: great time to install new speakers with the panel out...shhhh!
Pioneer 3-way 4"x6"s ($90)...noticable difference with stock cd player.
