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MAF signal is reasonable. Best to probe the back of the connector vs. Opening up the sensor.
I would compare to DME #7. Even a slight voltage drop will cause leaner AFRs especially at idle.
Your idle AFRs are not bad.
Good job finding and fixing the vacuum leaks. Post back the WOT results.
BTW having the Motronic Monitor would have saved you lots of time. Something to consider.
Ok ill work on getting a probe on the dme connector. Again thanks for all the input even though im not the original buyer and probably not even the second. Was realigning maf tubes and saw this. This is one of your turbos John, don't know what happened, the nut lost a piece and went into blades. Not horrible and still no play but will have to pull it eventually. Or it will explode and go into my valves but hey at least ill have an excuse to upgrade my head and spend more money again.
Ok ill work on getting a probe on the dme connector. Again thanks for all the input even though im not the original buyer and probably not even the second. Was realigning maf tubes and saw this. This is one of your turbos John, don't know what happened, the nut lost a piece and went into blades. Not horrible and still no play but will have to pull it eventually. Or it will explode and go into my valves but hey at least ill have an excuse to upgrade my head and spend more money again.
upon further research most turbos are missing some off that main nut, im guessing to balance the compressor. Does look like there are some abrasions from bird strikes though, or some other foreign matter.
ok cleaned up my spark plug wiring, took out ngk vpower platinum plugs(they only maybe had 20 miles on them), and put in copper ngk's. also ran dedicated ground for maf, I was getting small voltage variations with it grounded to the bellhousing. here is video
maf voltage .65 to .68. battery voltage is 13.9, do you think this is a little high?
when I turn blower on, or fans kick on, the voltage drop affects maf, and my afr,s go from 14.8 to 14.2 for brief second.
fuel pressure is turned up a little high, but fqs is at position 0
Still seems to have a slight hesitation under no load when approaching 3k rpms, not always, intermittent
I tried to take video, not the best but at least you can see all the snow lol. maybe ill get a gopro
you can see at one point after I turn left right before I shift from second to 3rd, the afrs go to 16, I'm pretty sure I still had very light partal throttle at that point and wasn't in decel or overrun, however you call it.
if you can turn your head sideways and have good speakers you can see afrs go to 16 while accelerating in second close to 3krpms.
also, if boost is building or other times I am accelerating, its perfectly fine and afrs are appropriate for load, its just when these conditions are met, very light throttle creeping past 3k rpms, it will have this hiccup, sometimes. not always. It doesn't seem as bad whatever I did. could I be getting electromagnetic interference from ignition affecting my injector signals??
How did you "clean up" your spark plug wires? They look to be the same ones that were arcing in the prior video. Why is your ! warning light on in the dash? And it looks like a warning light on in the oil pressure/voltage pod? What's that about? Very difficult to make much of those videos as far as AFR's etc. You might consider a Zeitronix logger -- they you can see clearly how AFR are reacting to loads and throttle positions, detect patterns, etc. The injector signals should have strong clean power, so electrical interference shouldn't be an issue. That is typically an issue with weak little signals, like the speed and ref sensors, radios signals, etc.
Remind us, did you car just start doing this out of the blue or did it start after making some repairs/changes? Did it ever run right as currently configured?
How did you "clean up" your spark plug wires? They look to be the same ones that were arcing in the prior video. Why is your ! warning light on in the dash? And it looks like a warning light on in the oil pressure/voltage pod? What's that about? Very difficult to make much of those videos as far as AFR's etc. You might consider a Zeitronix logger -- they you can see clearly how AFR are reacting to loads and throttle positions, detect patterns, etc. The injector signals should have strong clean power, so electrical interference shouldn't be an issue. That is typically an issue with weak little signals, like the speed and ref sensors, radios signals, etc.
Remind us, did you car just start doing this out of the blue or did it start after making some repairs/changes? Did it ever run right as currently configured?
Same wires, wrapped a good amount of self fusing silicone tape around boots, and installed separators and boot insulators and switched to copper plugs. Warning light has been on for while guessing because of the airbag. It kind of just started doing this out of blue. I had it running good before without hesitation on and off throttle into and out of boost.
Enjoyed the snow, but not much data for diagnostic purposes. A few things to watch out for, may or may not be the cause.
- Some Air filters create turbulence which affects the MAF and indirectly the AFRs. I noticed you have a filter I've never seen before; try rotating the air filter and reclock the MAF. See how it affects it.
- Do you know the condition of the injectors? They must be 7-10 years old. A good cleaning would not hurt.
Since the hesitation is new, what did you change just before it showed up?
Without having proper data logging to view most of the variables at once, it'll be difficult to diagnose intermittent issues. Do you have the Motronic Monitor (MoMonitor)?
Enjoyed the snow, but not much data for diagnostic purposes. A few things to watch out for, may or may not be the cause.
- Some Air filters create turbulence which affects the MAF and indirectly the AFRs. I noticed you have a filter I've never seen before; try rotating the air filter and reclock the MAF. See how it affects it.
- Do you know the condition of the injectors? They must be 7-10 years old. A good cleaning would not hurt.
Since the hesitation is new, what did you change just before it showed up?
Without having proper data logging to view most of the variables at once, it'll be difficult to diagnose intermittent issues. Do you have the Motronic Monitor (MoMonitor)?
Ok so if I remember correctly as winter came and my car was using cold start enrichment more, my plugs fouled out. Changed plugs and cap and rotor. Started seeing hesitation. The change in weather could have revealed a weak point in electrical system.
Not to go off topic, but really? I've made over 500hp at the wheels with mine, and the MAF still have room to measure plenty more air.
when you compare it on boost tables, fuel tables, antilag, launchcontroll, boost with tps correction etc, and old cables vs new "milspec" and further on.
I know that the kit makes 500 whp, but im to geeky and want some bether.
ok well I went for quite a test drive today, here is what I observed.
set fuel pressure to 3 bar, put fqs at position 1, +3% fuel. car idled stoich, but however whenever I approach 3k rpms, almost like when its at the threshold of transitioning into boost, it feels like it hits a wall and injectors don't add any more fuel, afrs go to 16, 17. and then it will snap out of it and feel like its getting fuel just fine, go into boost and afrs are great.
tried position 3, +6% fuel, afrs at idle between 13.9 and 14.6. car at this point felt like it wanted to rev, engine sounded happier, and it was transitioning into boost readily and getting on it, afrs at 10, 11 when in boost.
it seems like an electrical thing, plenty of fuel when on boost, it just gets stuck when transitioning and bogs out then sometimes decides to run great and snap out of it etc etc. I plugged in blink code tester, it did blink once when I was accelerating, but that's the only blink I saw out of it.
02-09-2017, 12:08 AM
