moalaska

Pulling my wire harness to fix some connectors and rewrap it. That section by the air oil seperator is pretty bad its squished flat and heat shrink cracked. Where does the wire go that goes down by the turbo maybe to side of block? Got all other wires loose except for oil sensor wires. Which way is easiest to pull?

Tom M'Guinn

Personally, I'd try new spark plug wires first, but most of these harnesses are showing their age, so more power to you. Here's a picture from my head gasket R&R write-up that shows the issue you are having. There are two brackets right there that work together to trap a big bundle of wires and hoses. I've never tried getting the bundle out without removing those brackets (and opening the cooling system) so can't say whether it's possible or not...

gregeast

This is completely off topic but I read the title of this post as "wife harness removal"...and, well, I had to click the link.

Always a good idea to follow Tom's advice, he knows of what he speaks, sorry for the wasted bandwidth.

moalaska

I already have it clear of the cycling valve bracket have the diagnostic plug and square plug clear just wondering do i pull it into the car and out, or pull it out of car through engine?

Tom M'Guinn

If memory serves, the manual says to pull the DME/KLR connectors through the firewall toward the engine side (in the engine removal section). That said, I pulled mine into the car from the footwell... (which risks greasy stains on the interior...) Just need to dislodge the big rubber grommet snorkel from the firewall and free up all the wires, then probably doesn't make much difference really...

dp951

Hello, the harness as the other Lister stated is trapped between the rear water neck and oil fill then its routed forward and is secured along the metal vacuum pipe tubes , then you have the various sensor connections , idle air , turbo water pump , temp , air flow meter , tps then it routes the oil pressure behind the plastic timing belt cover tight to the water pump then down to the oil sensor staying behind the timing cover.

Remove the rubber boots prior to pulling the oil wire harness from behind the cover, also tape the connectors together and tie a string through the electrical eyes so when you pull the harness out the string follows , thus when u reinstall you can pull the string to lead the wiring back behind the cover to the original place ( note the 2 plastic clips that hold that portion of the harness also) .

FUN FUN FUN dp951


Pull the harness from in side the car out .. remove the dme , klr connectors , the red plug for gauges, a small white 2 wire plug in some cases, and the alarm if equipped. with the large connectors pull the klr one through first, ive found it easiest that way.

moalaska

Awsome. I still don't know where that wire is going that goes down by the turbo its not turbo pump. Ill have to crawl under and look.

Tom M'Guinn

I'm guessing you are looking at the O2 sensor cable that run behind the heat shield between the AOS and turbo? If so, you can disconnect the barrel connector at the back of the intake and leave the other part in the motor.

moalaska

Well it comes off main harness and goes straight down. I unplugged o2 sensor, unless it goes down and comes back up. Ill have it out in a couple hours ill post what it is then. Thanks for all input guys.

odonnell

I pulled mine last week and I simply pulled the connectors for the dme and klr through the hole in the firewall. I had to unclip the altimeter, the red connector, and over by the brake booster there's a connector under a shield you unplug. The last thing was the diagnostic port. I also had a mystery 6 pin connector that was by the glovebox under the dash but it wasn't connected to anything.

moalaska

dme temp
​​​​​​​ Idle valve connector
section under cycling valve

Success!!

moalaska

Got it mostly stripped down. Not sure yet if i wasn't to mess with the section that goes to drivers side firewall and diag plug. Just waiting for new connectors.

moalaska

Made some progress on rebuilding the harness