Rogue DME and rogue m-tune questions, bin files?
#1
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Rogue DME and rogue m-tune questions, bin files?
I sent Josh an email yesterday, but I haven't talked to him in a couple years, so I'm not sure if he even uses the rogue email anymore.
I have a Lindsey racing m-tune in my street car with the chip board installed on a 28 pin DME, and an m-tune chip stacked on top of it. I bought this system new from lindsey
I just bought a second system used for my track car. it's the plastic tube setup with the newer maf sensor. it came with a rogue DME, and a tuner/logger setup. when I opened the ecu, the tuner is plugged straight into the dme, with no chip board. is this right? eventually I'd like to finish the tune and burn a chip, but is this possible without the mtune daughter board that came with my Lindsey kit?
anyone ever order an aluminum charge tube from lindsey and replace the hideous plastic part?
does anyone have the 2.5 liter bin file for the plastic Rouge m-tune with the newer sensor? I think the ones on the rogue site are for the first Gen that's even older than my used parts.
I have a Lindsey racing m-tune in my street car with the chip board installed on a 28 pin DME, and an m-tune chip stacked on top of it. I bought this system new from lindsey
I just bought a second system used for my track car. it's the plastic tube setup with the newer maf sensor. it came with a rogue DME, and a tuner/logger setup. when I opened the ecu, the tuner is plugged straight into the dme, with no chip board. is this right? eventually I'd like to finish the tune and burn a chip, but is this possible without the mtune daughter board that came with my Lindsey kit?
anyone ever order an aluminum charge tube from lindsey and replace the hideous plastic part?
does anyone have the 2.5 liter bin file for the plastic Rouge m-tune with the newer sensor? I think the ones on the rogue site are for the first Gen that's even older than my used parts.
#2
I believe the bin file you are looking for is in the Rogue website.
#3
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#4
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What differentiates old vs new MAF sensor? Mine has no visible part number on it. My M-Tune is a pre-LR version bought directly from Joshua several years ago.
I inquired at LR about purchasing the aluminum tube but they said it won't work with my older M-Tune setup.
I inquired at LR about purchasing the aluminum tube but they said it won't work with my older M-Tune setup.
#6
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from Josh's website:
"Also, there is two versions of the M-Tune MAF pipe. The early pipe has a large raised "arrow" on the top-side of the MAF pipe, pointing towards the turbocharger. The current pipe has a much smaller arrow on the side of the MAF flange"
I have never seen the large raised arrow version....I can post pictures of mine later if it helps.
Also, I'm not sure how the aluminum pipe "wouldn't work" unless you have the early raised arrow version and the sensor is different. Upon cursory inspection the sensor from my lindsey mtune car looks like it almost exactly the same as the rogue version. I would think worst case would be a retune for the bigger ID of the charge pipe.
"Also, there is two versions of the M-Tune MAF pipe. The early pipe has a large raised "arrow" on the top-side of the MAF pipe, pointing towards the turbocharger. The current pipe has a much smaller arrow on the side of the MAF flange"
I have never seen the large raised arrow version....I can post pictures of mine later if it helps.
Also, I'm not sure how the aluminum pipe "wouldn't work" unless you have the early raised arrow version and the sensor is different. Upon cursory inspection the sensor from my lindsey mtune car looks like it almost exactly the same as the rogue version. I would think worst case would be a retune for the bigger ID of the charge pipe.
#7
There is a post related to a using a new pipe. One would need to re-tune/re-calibrate. Joshua had a post on here answering that topic. Someone on here made themselves a new aluminum pipe instead of using the plastic one.
I believe the tuner/logger would be required.
I believe the tuner/logger would be required.
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#8
I think one of his later versions had both the M-Tune software and baseline maps stored on the processor (that big 40-pin chip) vs. the 28-pin.
#9
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As for your tuner/logger, unless Joshua modified the Ostrich EPROM emulator you should be able to burn an EPROM with what's currently in the emulator and plug that into the 28 pin socket instead. I've done this several times using Joshua's old DIY Tuner tools for the stock ML3.1 DME.
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I have definitely seen that in some other threads, where he modified stock ecus that way... I'm a little surprised that whoever bough my stuff new had that modification done to the rogue ECU, because part of what makes it so cool is that it's flexible for a lot of things.... unless there's some way to still run a stock car with it, maybe sticking a regular chip in the socket and turning it on?
#11
I have definitely seen that in some other threads, where he modified stock ecus that way... I'm a little surprised that whoever bough my stuff new had that modification done to the rogue ECU, because part of what makes it so cool is that it's flexible for a lot of things.... unless there's some way to still run a stock car with it, maybe sticking a regular chip in the socket and turning it on?
#12
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I have one of the older (original) MAF tubes with the large arrow. From my conversations with Joshua and own experience, I can confirm you need the software for that specific tube which is not the same as the newer tube. Joshua's a great guy and I bet would set you up if you get ahold of him. He's a busy guy so patience is the word.
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Well, I got it running today and know less than I did before. it will run with the tuner installed and 24 pin prom selected... but the tuner is a 28 pin device. it will NOT run without the tuner, so it's not a modded ECU with the mtune on board. it will NOT run with a spare M-tune chip from my street car... so it appears that my reason for buying this was totally misguided. I wanted to be able to use the tuner to tune both of my cars and eventually burn chips for each one so the jenky tuner part isn't flying around my cabin. Lindsey was very nice and responsive sending me the bin for my street car, which has an m-tune I bought new from him, however he said he had never tuned one of the m-tunes before and couldn't tell me if I hook the rogue tuner up to the chip board, or not. he also didn't know why I appear to only see two maps on the bin file, yet my mtune has 8 images, or how to adjust them. he suggested I "plug it in and try". it seems like this product is less viable now that Josh is out of the spotlight. I can't blame him at all, it's not his main job. I'm going to bite the bullet and start researching VEMS, and possibly outfit both cars (I want them the same).... or maybe I'll just push them both off a cliff
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Still trying to get this thing setup properly... Tonight I found that if I set the Rogue ECU to N/A mode bypassing all the KLR function, it runs perfect in the garage. no break up all the way to the redline. When it's set to turbo mode it wont run right with either of the KLRs I have, or any of the chips stock to modified. Anyone know if there was a special KLR chip? I'm also going to try to check my knock sensor to make sure that isnt screwing up the works
Still no word from Josh... Following Lindsey's suggestion of hooking the tuner up to my LR unit seems to have bricked the chip board. So, thats exciting
Still no word from Josh... Following Lindsey's suggestion of hooking the tuner up to my LR unit seems to have bricked the chip board. So, thats exciting
#15
As per a suggestion from Josh last year I had to switch my Rogue board to NA mode to get my car to run properly.
I tried 3 different chips also. 2 LR M-tune chips and then the one that Josh sent in the mail with the update tune.
I had the same issue that you are describing where whenever I got past about 2 psi or less than 4000 rpm it backfired and cut out.
They all run in NA mode but not turbo.
I tried 3 different chips also. 2 LR M-tune chips and then the one that Josh sent in the mail with the update tune.
I had the same issue that you are describing where whenever I got past about 2 psi or less than 4000 rpm it backfired and cut out.
They all run in NA mode but not turbo.
Still trying to get this thing setup properly... Tonight I found that if I set the Rogue ECU to N/A mode bypassing all the KLR function, it runs perfect in the garage. no break up all the way to the redline. When it's set to turbo mode it wont run right with either of the KLRs I have, or any of the chips stock to modified. Anyone know if there was a special KLR chip? I'm also going to try to check my knock sensor to make sure that isnt screwing up the works
Still no word from Josh... Following Lindsey's suggestion of hooking the tuner up to my LR unit seems to have bricked the chip board. So, thats exciting
Still no word from Josh... Following Lindsey's suggestion of hooking the tuner up to my LR unit seems to have bricked the chip board. So, thats exciting