aglaes

I had a new master and slave cylinder installed just after I got the car 2 yrs ago, but the shop apparently didn't do a great job of bleeding the line. Clutch pedal is more than half way to the floor before it starts to disengage the clutch and the pedal doesn't pop all the way back up like it should - I have to keep pulling it back up with my foot.

I've read everything I could find on various methods to bleed the air out and today I went out and tried what I thought appeared to be the best method - used an oil can filled with brake fluid to pump the brake fluid in at the slave cylinder bleeder. The theory is that any air in the line naturally wants to go up, so this method just helps push it up back to the reservoir.

Not sure if it was the cheap *** oil can or something else, but the oil can kept drawing in air - I think through the plunger rod - and introduced more bubbles into the line - so I gave up on that method.

Anyone out there have the definitive best method - or what works for you?

aglaes

I think I'm going to buy a mityvac and try this method from Clark's Garage. Anyone use this method and have any additional pointers?

Bleeding Method 3

•Install the slave cylinder into the clutch housing.
•Raise the rear of the vehicle as high as possible above the front of the vehicle.
•Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal. It should stay on the floor.
•Connect a mityvac (hand vacuum pump) to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed nipple and draw brake fluid from the slave cylinder using the vacuum pump until the fluid flows clear with no air bubbles. Ensure that the brake reservoir remains full during the bleeding.
•Close the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
•Slowly pull the clutch pedal off the floor. This will draw fluid into the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid reservoir for proper level.
•Repeat Step "d" to remove any additional air.
•At this point the clutch pedal should operate normally. Pump the clutch pedal a few times to see if it feels spongy. If it does repeat Step "b" as necessary.

quinnfiske

I installed a new master cylinder on my car and had the same issue. The problem is that it was dry and just kept pumping air. I disconnected the hard line to the slave at the junction at the firewall. I then used my Mity-Vac to suck fluid through the master. I then reconnected it and bled the fluid through the slave cylinder, again using the Mity-Vac. Worked like a charm. Next time I will try to bleed the master before installing in the car. This is called "bench bleeding".

jerome951

IMHO the best method is a combination of a pressure bleeder which constantly refills the reservoir and rapid pumping of the clutch pedal. You need a fair amount of fluid velocity to carry away the bubbles against gravity. A pressure bleeder or mity-vac alone can't generate enough flow.

mahoney944

I think the two person method is easiest. Have a hose run from the bleeder nipple into a clear glass jar, make sure the end of the hose is submerged in some extra brake fluid. I use my old fluid for this. Fill the reservoir with new fluid and one person pushes the clutch down and holds it down. Person two cracks the bleeder open, lets the air out (you'll see bubbles), snugs the bleeder back down and directs person one to lift the pedal back up. Repeat until no air is in the line. The first few times the pedal will just pop to the floor and you have to reach down and pull it up at the directed time. Also ever 2 cycles of this method check the reservoir and top it off to max.

gpr8er

aglaes

Gpr8er - that is the method I tried. My oil can kept introducing bubbles into the line.

Quinnfiske - when you used the mityvac to suck fluid into the master did you have the clutch pedal up or down?

quinnfiske

i would start with the clutch pedal down. The problem here is that when you pour brake fluid into the reservoir, it does not force the air out of the bore. When you pump the pedal, it just pumps air. When you disconnect the hard line at the firewall, the Mity-Vac exerts a larger vacuum and pulls the fuid through the bore.

I have done this job on several types of cars and the 951 is hardest to beed by far.

KevinGross

If you have air in a 944-series clutch hydraulic, two things:
- positive-pressure bleeder; anything else is a waste of time and fluid
- jack the rear of the car as high as you can to level the cylinder, which is angled such that it will trap the air pocket

blown 944

I've had success using a power bleeder. I actually put the fluid in the power bleeder. Then take the slave cylinder off of the bell housing. Turn it to where the bleeder screw is at a high position. And then just pressure bleed it from that position. Then reinstall the slave cylinder

Dougs951S

if you arnt pressure bleeding, you are wasting your time. perfect clutch and brakes in under 5 minutes by yourself, first time, everytime.

aglaes

Thanks for all the advice. Ordered a power bleeder. Hopefully will arrive before the weekend so I can try it out.

aglaes

Well, bled the clutch hydraulic line with the power bleeder yesterday. Had the back end up good 6 inches or more above the front. I did get some air, but my clutch pedal is still the same.

is there some other adjustment that can be made to the clutch pedal itself to get it to pop all the way up on it's own?

TJ Elliott

Did this job on the weekend. I had bad air in the clutch system due to replacing parts. I used my power bleeder filled with plenty of fluid (wet method) then had my son in the car to work the clutch pedal. Proceeded as follows: 1) Pressurize power bleeder half filled with fluid 2) open slave bleeder 3) push pedal to the floor 4) close bleeder 5) pull pedal up manually 6) repeat until no air comes out of bleeder valve 7) test feel of clutch pedal which should feel normal by this time.