noob may have seized his engine
#61
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To give you some idea, this could be as simple as the throttle cable being sticky. However, it sounds more like the ICV isn't getting the consistent vacuum to control the idle. Turn the car back on and let it run for awhile, until it's warmed up. It hasn't had consistent fuel and air through it for awhile. Give it time to warm up, and settle. Then report what it's doing. A 2000 rpm idle isn't normal, but it isn't hurting anything but your ears and a bit of extra fuel usage.
#64
well i left the negative unplugged for a few hours and came back to it and it gave enough juice for it to start up momentarily and then sputter out and die. i cranked it up twice actually, same result both times.
#65
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Your battery doesn't have a strong enough charge.
Okay, so what was the original problem, that first got you working on the car, when you lost the bolt? What happened that had you taking stuff apart?
Okay, so what was the original problem, that first got you working on the car, when you lost the bolt? What happened that had you taking stuff apart?
#66
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You need to go crank the engine and report back if the tach bounces, when you crank it. Also, you removed the intake to replace the icv, somewhere in there is where your idle problem likely is. It's really easy to leave a vac hose loose. The other culprit could be a bad or misadjusted tps.
First let's work the starting issue. You have a batt that sat for a few weeks or more without a good alt charge cycle. It may be a bit weak. If not that, and the tach doesn't bounce, it's ref sendor wires.
First let's work the starting issue. You have a batt that sat for a few weeks or more without a good alt charge cycle. It may be a bit weak. If not that, and the tach doesn't bounce, it's ref sendor wires.
#67
finally got it goin, the problems i had were due to my ignorance and inexperience with cars. the first problem i had was with the firing order. that accounts for most of the time since i had to wait for the tune up kit to arrive..the most recent problem was me running on 2 or 3 cylinders. wires were not pushed down all the way on the plugs. the reason for all of this was to replace the cycling valve, which was busted and caused me to overboost hard. i thought this was the case since i bought it, and didnt notice the busted hose until recently. hope i didnt do any damage to my engine...the car is much slower now haha.
thanks everyone for the help, i really appreciate it.
thanks everyone for the help, i really appreciate it.
#68
A lot of concerns similar to yours occur with these cars.
The good news is that often times it either a vacuum leak or boost leak.
The good news is that often times it either a vacuum leak or boost leak.