TurnerJ

So pretty much the first step to getting to the torsion bars is to remove the exhaust behind the cat. Well the first bolt came out but the second one's head broke right off. So I just let that be and did everything else in the mean time and figured I'll deal with it later. Well, everything is out of the way now and the t-bar carrier is ready to drop down except for the exhaust.

So I'm pretty much wondering what the best way to remove this cat back would be. Are the plates that hold the flanges together threaded as well? Because if weren't I was thinking (this may be a really bad idea) I could cut between the plates and through the bolts with like a sawzall or something? So one bolt is out, the head broke off the other one, and the two at the top are untouched.
Ideas?

By the way the car is really rusty and has rusted through the wastegate tie-in pipe also. Not sure what I'm going to do there either.

Thanks a ton

lart951

Cut the head or the nut it doesn't matter which side the plates on the exhaust are not threaded, I use a small 4 inch circular metal cutter

Gator_86_951

Where are you in No.Va? I would be willing to help you out if you want. I am in S. Arlington, and I might need some help on my 951 when I bring it back from NJ. I also know these cars in and out having taken them apart a few times. Send me a PM.

TurnerJ

One more question. Those darn brake lines. I got them off. How do you get the new ones on? Both ends of my new ones are fixed and when you tighten them it twists the whole line. Thanks

lart951

where did you get your new lines from?

Van

Just pry the exhaust flanges apart if the head (or nut) of the bolt broke off. Just corrosion is holding it in place.

The fittings on the hard brake lines spin, not the flexible line. (Assuming they're not corroded.)

TurnerJ

...eBay. The knock off 50 buck ones...

Ohhhhh, okay that makes more sense. The hard lines must be pretty corroded like the rest of the car then because they weren't spinning, but I'll work on that.

Regarding the exhaust, my tools were limited to a hacksaw, a dremel, and a jig saw with an aluminum blade. I couldn't get a good spot to pry it from either so I kinda gave up on it and will just mess with it later when I eventually have to upgrade it and go cat delete. I just took off the hanger at the rear and middle to let it sag a little bit to give me just enough room (I still don't know how it was enough) to work the t-bar carrier out and back a bit.

So now the t-bars are out, carrier back in (took me forever until I remembered that to upper mounts are rubber and move a little so I could line up the holes), and now I'm starting to put everything else back together. Still need to inspect and re-grease or replace CVs.

Are there any important torque values now with no t-bars other than the CVs?

Thanks your replies guys!

Van

Try hammering a screwdriver between the exhaust flanges...

CV joints and lower shock bolts are the most important torque.

black944 turbo

First thing is to take the other 2 bolts off. If they break no big deal as others have said it is just a bolt and nut there. Van is correct if it won't come apart a rubber mallet should get them separated.

TurnerJ

Okay finally got those hard line fittings to spin and it all makes sense now...

But another day, another small problem. I've been spending the last 45 minutes trying to get the new rear coilovers into place. I should be working on the top bolt first right? I think there might be some excess underbody stuff that is making it just a little too tight up around the upper perch area. Boy, this will be more snug than I thought.

I'll keep working away at it tomorrow.

eyeball kid

Again, where in NoVa are you? There are a few of us in close proximity to you, and probably more than a few who, like myself, would gladly spend a day cranking wrenches in a (heated) garage instead of chasing these damn kids around all day. Here is another source of local knowledge. http://dorkiphus.net/porsche/search....archid=1631470

TurnerJ

I'm in Reston, VA. Thanks for reminding me about dorkiphus. I kinda forgot about it for a little while.

TurnerJ

Alright, still can't get those rear coilovers into place. The drivers side is closer than the passenger side but neither are there yet. Who else has put these 30 series Konis in the back? Any tips? It seems like the top hat is hitting the cone-shaped upper mount before the upper eye on the shock can get high enough. Should I scrape away some underbody coating from that mount to allow a little more clearance for the top hat? I'm only millimeters away with the drivers side one. The trans cooler side seems to allow even less room though.

The only other thought I had was that if there was a some sort of spacer in between the plate thing at the top and the upper perch, then that would lower the upper perch a little and give the upper eye the extra room it needs to go higher into the mount. Is this a bad idea?

Finally, am I supposed to leave that plastic spacer thing between the spring and the upper perch? And I know that zip tie is supposed to come off but this is the other coilover that I'm not working with yet.

I'm getting pretty good at making things take longer than they should.

Dal Heger

Isn't the spring supposed to be on the bottom?

TurnerJ

If someone confirms that these are run inverted then I'm gonna feel pretty stupid. I guess it would make sense though, considering the word "KONI" would be then read right-side-up...

But then again, the new lower shock bolt is too big to fit through the other eyehole with the spacers and the spacers fit perfectly for the upper mount.