It’s more work than replacing a stock alternator, overall this was quite easy to install. The only items I had to buy were the alternator, a new 6 rib pulley as it came with a 5 rib pulley (the alternator in the link below will put the correct pulley on for you by request) and a slight modification to the mounting bracket for fitment. No extra brackets or bolts. Everything else was reused.
Alternator with 6 rib pulley option
Optional female alternator harness plug
Optional positive terminal boot cover

Place the stock alternator and the alternator you plan to moddify side by side on a flat surface, sitting on the face of their pullies and rotate the mounting tabs towards each other. You'll clearly see how much material needs to be removed or shimmed with washers.




It's a good idea to wrap or cover your alternator to avoid metal chips from getting inside. Cut the alternator tabs down, fit washers as needed and tap or drill out the rear sleeve to fit the long m10 bolt. Verify your cut tabs to the stock alternator to be sure your cuts are accurate. (One tip here to get nice flat cuts would be to place your grinder in a fixed vice and carefully rotate the marked alternator tabs into your grinding wheel). This is important as it verifies the pulley will be in line with the crank. Next, I like to install the alternator into the mount using the long bolt then pivot the alternater in the mount to check if you need to grind the lower mounting tab of the alternator and / or the bracket for clearance. Cut the mount to accommodate your new alternator body as needed and the lower tab on the alternator for the lower bolt hole to line up.

You might try taking your stock alternator to the parts store and comparing the mounting tabs on their counter as described above before purchasing it if you don't order the eBay one with the correct pully pre installed, which is recommended, to check fitment with other alternators.


This picture is with the MAF kit removed.




Use a rubber cover to protect the wire and terminal from anything that could possibly ground against it.




This is the only configuration that would give me controlled charging and allows the factory voltmeter and warning lamp to work as intended. It's actually quite simple as shown here (wiring diagram)




Your results may differ as I have modified many other items on my car that may have made it easier to remove my alternator mount and various other things. I suppose you could grind the mount down while on the car although I would highly suggest against it, way too much room for error if something slips.

Also, I tried grinding the alternator body down some at first but quickly realized this would not be enough clearance. You may have to grind more or less of your mount to get it to fit. I was worried about weakening the mount by cutting into it; however after close examination I came to see this was another over-engineering feat by Porsche. Once bolted in, the alternator itself will act as support to prevent the mount from collapsing.
Here is a photo of the Nissan alternator installed on my engine out of the car.









Here’s a picture of the modified mount out of the car.







I want to give special thanks to everyone that contributed in all these posts that were all brought together, This makes doing this modification much easier for everyone who is interested in doing it. I tried to bring all the good posts from all over rennlist into one easy to use forum. Hope this helps. Thanks!

Reloaded pics 1-18-19