Replacing axle on track 951. Looking for advice.
#1
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Replacing axle on track 951. Looking for advice.
Replacing driver side axle. On re-installation what are the bolt torque specs and do I torque in a star pattern. Any other advice that may help would also be appreciated. Thanks, Wayne
#2
30ft lb. Star Pattern. Clarks-garage.com! I like to go once more around after the star.
I drilled all mine and safety wired them.
Check them after a session or two on track if no safety wire.
I drilled all mine and safety wired them.
Check them after a session or two on track if no safety wire.
#3
Rennlist Member
This is the best information I've found on the topic:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post1922501
Good luck,
Rich
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post1922501
Good luck,
Rich
#5
Drifting
If you can't safety wire them, put a dab of paint or nail polish on the bolt head and dog bone so you can visually see if they've moved. Check them after each of the first couple sessions.
Be sure the threads are free from grease. As Sid mentioned, an electric ratchet is really helpful for this.
Be sure the threads are free from grease. As Sid mentioned, an electric ratchet is really helpful for this.
#7
Rennlist Member
These bolts are designed to be used once and then replaced. Although many on this site including myself have reused them. If you do reuse them check the torque regularly until you have confidence they will stay put.
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#8
Rennlist Member
We have been through this.
These are not torque to yield.
These bolts back out, because of the axle grease that tends to get on the threads, causing a variable clamping load between bolts. Speed of torquing can change the clamp load as well.
It is very important to clean the bolts and threads and then to torque them to spec (33ft/lbs if I remember right). Q-tips do wonders for this.
These are not torque to yield.
These bolts back out, because of the axle grease that tends to get on the threads, causing a variable clamping load between bolts. Speed of torquing can change the clamp load as well.
It is very important to clean the bolts and threads and then to torque them to spec (33ft/lbs if I remember right). Q-tips do wonders for this.
#10
Drifting
Is this due to the power output of the 951?
I race a 924S and never have issues even after 24 hours races?
I have just finished the rebuild of a street/track 951 that will see extensive track use -- so I'm even more interested.
thanks,
Mike
I race a 924S and never have issues even after 24 hours races?
I have just finished the rebuild of a street/track 951 that will see extensive track use -- so I'm even more interested.
thanks,
Mike
#11
Rennlist Member
Here's how I keep mine from backing out.....
Over tighten the crap out of them. Yep.
Like... Take the torque wrench and shove it up your @$$ so you don't pop a hemorrhoid while tightening, and then use a godzilla sized 3/8" ratchet and just tighten like a mad man until the bolts are on the verge of stripping out.
Then go do some burnouts and stuff and junk.
Works every time. Dang, my DIY should be on clarks-garage.
Over tighten the crap out of them. Yep.
Like... Take the torque wrench and shove it up your @$$ so you don't pop a hemorrhoid while tightening, and then use a godzilla sized 3/8" ratchet and just tighten like a mad man until the bolts are on the verge of stripping out.
Then go do some burnouts and stuff and junk.
Works every time. Dang, my DIY should be on clarks-garage.
#12
Rennlist Member
I think part of it is how you use the car. Mine is a track car only, and I end up changing CVs every couple of years. My car produces around 400 ft-lbs torque depending on outside temp. I have a solid transmission mount that may have something to with my bolts backing out, vibration etc. I found that the bolts seemed to stay torqued better if they are new. One of my daily inspections at the track are the axle bolts.