Help me diagnose my timing belt issue.
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Help me diagnose my timing belt issue.
OK this all started with what seemed like a bearing going bad sound once my car was fully warmed up. Once I disassembled everything all the rollers and idlers seem smooth. I tug and pull on them to see if there is any play and the most I get it the slightest "click" feel (like thousandsth of and inch movement), I mean barely and not enough for any odd movement of the bearings to show and certainly no grinding and they turn smoothly. I think I would chalk it up to typical slack in a bearing you would need for grease to be in there and have room to do its work.
The water pump pulley has the same "click" if you will and doesn't spin freely for long (see video), there is a "stiff" feel though it is very smooth with no noise or grinding. All in all I think the bearings are ok.
However something is grinding the belt away as you can tell in the video. It looks like the belt is too far to the engine side. Not sure what causes this or how to rectify it. I think Im going to get new belts even though these look fine. However if they are grinding then there is additional heat in them and I don't know how that affects them.
Im not sure what to do with the water pump at this time. When the car was warmed up and I listened to the pump house with a wood stick is sure sounded like a bad bearing but it could of been a scrapping belt - just not sure. I might just replace the whole lot to be safe.
Please look at the video and give some advise. Thanks.
the sound it made while fully warmed up:
Once taken apart:
The water pump pulley has the same "click" if you will and doesn't spin freely for long (see video), there is a "stiff" feel though it is very smooth with no noise or grinding. All in all I think the bearings are ok.
However something is grinding the belt away as you can tell in the video. It looks like the belt is too far to the engine side. Not sure what causes this or how to rectify it. I think Im going to get new belts even though these look fine. However if they are grinding then there is additional heat in them and I don't know how that affects them.
Im not sure what to do with the water pump at this time. When the car was warmed up and I listened to the pump house with a wood stick is sure sounded like a bad bearing but it could of been a scrapping belt - just not sure. I might just replace the whole lot to be safe.
Please look at the video and give some advise. Thanks.
the sound it made while fully warmed up:
Once taken apart:
#2
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Seems like you had maybe the balance shaft tensioner and the timing belt tensioners mixed up. The timing belt tensioner lip of the roller should be closest to the engine, where as the balance shaft tensioner roller should have the lip furthest away from the engine. If they are switched as they look similar, then the belt will be allowed to walk close to the engine. The lower timing gear on the crankshaft has a lip towards the front of the car, which, when combined with the timing tensioner roller with the lip towards the engine will keep it centered and away from the belt cover.
I opened up a motor on a customers car a few weeks and while there wasn't any rubbing luckily, there could have been. This post shows how the rollers were reversed.
http://rennsportkc.com/951-timing-be...l-leak-repair/
I opened up a motor on a customers car a few weeks and while there wasn't any rubbing luckily, there could have been. This post shows how the rollers were reversed.
http://rennsportkc.com/951-timing-be...l-leak-repair/
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
In your opinion would I be advised on new rollers? The water pump has 1500 miles on them (put on by the PO). Would there be any issue reusing the water pump? I certainly will be getting new belts.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I just went and check the tensioners:
The timing belt tensioner does have its lip towards the engine block. However the balance tensioner has its belt towards the engine as well. Not sure how that changes things.
The timing belt tensioner does have its lip towards the engine block. However the balance tensioner has its belt towards the engine as well. Not sure how that changes things.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After some further reading I do have a thought I would like to throw out there for comment.
I have an 86 944T, with the updated water pump, so shouldn't the back be cut out of the rear cover? And if it is then wouldn't that explain the rubbing?
From what I can tell the hole isn't big enough.
I have an 86 944T, with the updated water pump, so shouldn't the back be cut out of the rear cover? And if it is then wouldn't that explain the rubbing?
From what I can tell the hole isn't big enough.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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#9
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rear tooth belt cover
sorry, the crank pulley is on right, but you still need to cut the back of the cover....you can also put a washer behind the timing belt tenioner roller to push it out a little....give me an email or iphone # and i will forward you the info on the rear cover...vinnie