Any pics of mounting a TonyG splitter?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Any pics of mounting a TonyG splitter?
I am getting ready to mount one of TonyG's splitters and looking to see how other did theirs including mounting the support rods. I have a GTRacing splitter that I am replacing and had that mounted with peel style rivets.
Just looking to see what other people did - rivets, or nut/bolt, quick release fasteners, etc.
Also looking to see how others mounted the support rods - where to mount to the front bumper and where to attach to the splitter.
Any pictures would be appreciated.
Just looking to see what other people did - rivets, or nut/bolt, quick release fasteners, etc.
Also looking to see how others mounted the support rods - where to mount to the front bumper and where to attach to the splitter.
Any pictures would be appreciated.
#2
Rennlist Junkie Forever
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I use two vertical support rods. And to do it right, it will take a little work.
There are no long support rods that I found out on the market when I was last looking.
So I took two of these from Longacre (I think I used two 6" rods on each side for a total of 4 kits ordered)
I made a 1.5" stud with left threads on one side and right hand threads on the other and threaded (with red locktight) two of these together to get the correct overall length.
These come in 5", 6", and 8". So measure your overall needed length and combine two on each side to get the correct length. See Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...t.asp?catid=21
That allowed me to then have a overall long enough rod to go from the splitter to the bumper cover at the height of the lower aluminum bumper (behind the bumper cover).
Then you can mount it and spin the entire thing to tighten up any slop so it's nice and tight.
But do not just mount it to the bumper cover. The whole thing has to be strong enough to stand on or it will not last.
Just make sure if you do what I do, that you go measure because I don't recall the total overall length for the kits to order.
TonyG
I use two vertical support rods. And to do it right, it will take a little work.
There are no long support rods that I found out on the market when I was last looking.
So I took two of these from Longacre (I think I used two 6" rods on each side for a total of 4 kits ordered)
I made a 1.5" stud with left threads on one side and right hand threads on the other and threaded (with red locktight) two of these together to get the correct overall length.
These come in 5", 6", and 8". So measure your overall needed length and combine two on each side to get the correct length. See Here: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...t.asp?catid=21
That allowed me to then have a overall long enough rod to go from the splitter to the bumper cover at the height of the lower aluminum bumper (behind the bumper cover).
Then you can mount it and spin the entire thing to tighten up any slop so it's nice and tight.
But do not just mount it to the bumper cover. The whole thing has to be strong enough to stand on or it will not last.
Just make sure if you do what I do, that you go measure because I don't recall the total overall length for the kits to order.
TonyG
#3
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Here's a pic of the rod without the splitter installed for reference (I'll see if I can find one with it mounted).
In this pic, the support rods were just rotated up and out of the way sitting on the tow hook.
But you can see where they go through the bumper cover.
TonyG
In this pic, the support rods were just rotated up and out of the way sitting on the tow hook.
But you can see where they go through the bumper cover.
TonyG
#6
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#8
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Tony:
How much is your splitter? Are the supports necessary for a street driven car? I realize all the extra modifications you make on your splitter is mainly for race purposes, but I feel this would also increase durability for a street application. What is your take on this? Thanks!
How much is your splitter? Are the supports necessary for a street driven car? I realize all the extra modifications you make on your splitter is mainly for race purposes, but I feel this would also increase durability for a street application. What is your take on this? Thanks!
#9
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Tony:
How much is your splitter? Are the supports necessary for a street driven car? I realize all the extra modifications you make on your splitter is mainly for race purposes, but I feel this would also increase durability for a street application. What is your take on this? Thanks!
How much is your splitter? Are the supports necessary for a street driven car? I realize all the extra modifications you make on your splitter is mainly for race purposes, but I feel this would also increase durability for a street application. What is your take on this? Thanks!
The supports are for racing, which keeps the splitter from deflecting downward due to the flex of the the plastic bumper skin at high speed (or the pulling apart of a glass bumper skin due to the loads at high speed).
The mods to the splitter make it durable for both street and racing. Without the mods, it's very very vulnerable to anything you bump it into no matter how slight.
With the balsa insert... the thing is extremely strong both on and off the track.
TonyG
Last edited by TonyG; 01-26-2013 at 01:55 PM.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Tony. Do you attaché the support through the reinforced balsa portion of the splitter with a backing plate?
Also did you attach the splitter to the bumper cover using rivets.
Also did you attach the splitter to the bumper cover using rivets.
#12
Rennlist Junkie Forever
http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Ma...ssortment-kits
One the back side (the under side) of the splitter, I use a fender washer which I bend so that it matches the contour of the splitter where the bolt goes through. This helps to spread the load over a greater area which makes it stronger.
For the vertical support rods, you go through the wood and you don't need a backing plate. You use a flat head allen or phillips bolt counter sunk into the wood. It's very strong.
Just make sure you counter sink the bolt a good 1/8" below the surface of the wood. This allows for the splitter to wear quite a bit before it gets to the bolt head. If it wears into the bolt head nothing bad occurs... it just makes it hard to get the bolt out in the future because head gets beat up. That's why I go 1/8" into the wood :-)
TonyG
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Looking forward to increased aero this year. Going from GT Racing splitter and 968 turbo s wing to Tony's more aggressive splitter and a Kokeln rear wing.
Looking forward to increased aero this year. Going from GT Racing splitter and 968 turbo s wing to Tony's more aggressive splitter and a Kokeln rear wing.
#15
Rennlist Member
I have Stevens splitter that is offered by Good Aero. The cost is a bit higher, but you can make replacement splitters with a band saw.