Timing Belt parts.. am I missing something?
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Timing Belt parts.. am I missing something?
So, I just bought my 87 844 Turbo and am going to be doing some maintenance to it and want to know what you guys think about my parts list I am making. There may be an easier way to piece this all together, if so, let me know. Or see anything I am missing? Also, what are the best write ups to use while doing the install? This will be my first time doing it.. Thanks in advance!
Front Engine Seal Kit
Which one do I need? #1 or #2? OR if I got them from Pelican Parts, I couldn't tell which set to get?
Kevlar Timing Belt Kit - Rennbay $335
Water Pump - Vertex $289
Water Pump Gasket - Vertex $3.45
Thermostat - Vertex $13.95
Kricket Belt Tool - Rennbay $22
Timing Belt Wrench - Rennbay $19.50
--- Would I be better off buying this tool kit instead? Do I need more than the above 2? 944online.com $150
Ignition Tune-Up Kit - Rennbay $172
Mahle Oil Filter - Rennbay $7.75
Oil - Castrol 20w50, how many quarts?
Front Engine Seal Kit
Which one do I need? #1 or #2? OR if I got them from Pelican Parts, I couldn't tell which set to get?
Kevlar Timing Belt Kit - Rennbay $335
Water Pump - Vertex $289
Water Pump Gasket - Vertex $3.45
Thermostat - Vertex $13.95
Kricket Belt Tool - Rennbay $22
Timing Belt Wrench - Rennbay $19.50
--- Would I be better off buying this tool kit instead? Do I need more than the above 2? 944online.com $150
Ignition Tune-Up Kit - Rennbay $172
Mahle Oil Filter - Rennbay $7.75
Oil - Castrol 20w50, how many quarts?
Last edited by dmw319; 08-23-2011 at 06:05 PM.
#3
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Be careful with the balance shaft marks! I can't remember what it is but that is something squirrely about them!
I'm sure someone here will know what I'm babbling about!
I'm sure someone here will know what I'm babbling about!
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You need all 4 tools in the 944Online kit. The top tool is the 9200 balance shaft gear tool to hold each gear from turning while you remove the bolt then tighten the bolt during re-assembly, 3rd down is the flywheel lock - a must have to keep the motor from turning while you remove the front crank bolt and holds crank at TDC while you do your work.
You also need a 24mm socket and a breaker bar or big ratchet wrench to get the crank bolt out, and a 10mm cheezehead/triple-square socket bit to remove the cam bolt. Here's an example:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....2&group_ID=282
The funky balance gear marks that schip43 refers to aren't all that tricky, just follow the procedure on Clarks Garage and you'll be fine.
You also need a 24mm socket and a breaker bar or big ratchet wrench to get the crank bolt out, and a 10mm cheezehead/triple-square socket bit to remove the cam bolt. Here's an example:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....2&group_ID=282
The funky balance gear marks that schip43 refers to aren't all that tricky, just follow the procedure on Clarks Garage and you'll be fine.
Last edited by zerMATT951; 08-23-2011 at 11:08 PM.
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Front Engine Seal Kit
Which one do I need? #1 or #2? OR if I got them from Pelican Parts, I couldn't tell which set to get?
Kevlar Timing Belt Kit - Rennbay $335
Which one do I need? #1 or #2? OR if I got them from Pelican Parts, I couldn't tell which set to get?
Kevlar Timing Belt Kit - Rennbay $335
- Vertex kit 2 adds balance shaft and cam shaft collars. These additional parts are valuable, they replace where the seals contact and will wear a slight groove over time causing oil to leak. You won't really know if you need these extra parts until you take out the old sleeves and inspect them. If you've got over 100k miles, I'd replace them.
- The 944Online kit has all of the parts in kit 2 above, and also adds the oil pump drive gear that can also wear a groove where the seal hits it. Again, you won't know if you need that until you've inspected your old part.
- The Rennbay kit is all of the rollers and belts you'll need too...
Bottom line is that you need everything in the Rennbay kit, *PLUS* at least Vertex kit 1, possibly kit 2 or the 944 online kit. You need belts (2), rollers (4), all seals & o-rings, the cam bolt (insurance), maybe the balance shaft & cam sleeves, and maybe oil pump drive gear.
Also, just a suggestion. Buy all of this stuff from one vendor... Give them a call, tell them what you want to do, let them explain what parts you'll need, and put together your list. That way if you need more parts later, they will know what you already bought and the conversation will be much easier.
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Thanks Matt this helps a ton! I'm going to get ahead and get kit #2 along with everything else my final total comes to around 900 bucks. not too bad if i do all the work myself!
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You might post a request looking for loaner tools to borrow in your area - or maybe someone local to you will see this post. On the other hand, if you plan on keeping the car for several years or over 30-50k miles, you'll need them again for your next belt replacement.
Clark's Garage is your friend, and do a search here for tips on belt, roller, seal, and water pump replacement, there are LOTS of good threads, some pictures and videos too. It's not a complicated job at all, but it pays to prep yourself by reviewing the necessary steps so you won't run into any surprises.
While you're in there, you may want to look at rebuilding your PS pump (very easy, and Rennbay has a kit - buy a throttle body reseal kit for a future project too :-), and consider resealing your oil cooler housing if you suspect any leaks from there (it's MUCH easier to get at with the water pump removed).
Clark's Garage is your friend, and do a search here for tips on belt, roller, seal, and water pump replacement, there are LOTS of good threads, some pictures and videos too. It's not a complicated job at all, but it pays to prep yourself by reviewing the necessary steps so you won't run into any surprises.
While you're in there, you may want to look at rebuilding your PS pump (very easy, and Rennbay has a kit - buy a throttle body reseal kit for a future project too :-), and consider resealing your oil cooler housing if you suspect any leaks from there (it's MUCH easier to get at with the water pump removed).
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You'll need a filter wrench that slips onto the end and allows you to use a socket wrench (with extension) to unscrew it. There really isn't much room in there for a typical "band" style filter wrench. Ask whoever you are buying your parts from - they should have the correct wrench available.
Make sure you get a Mahle oil filter when you order your parts. Don't use anything that you might find at a local auto parts store. The stock filter is the OC-142, but as ChrisJ951 suggests below, you can also use a OC-75. It's a bit longer, so it will hold more oil, and some say it's easier to remove because of the added length.
Make sure you get a Mahle oil filter when you order your parts. Don't use anything that you might find at a local auto parts store. The stock filter is the OC-142, but as ChrisJ951 suggests below, you can also use a OC-75. It's a bit longer, so it will hold more oil, and some say it's easier to remove because of the added length.
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Thanks again Matt!
My main question.... If the engine seal kit, oil cooler seal, and rollers were ALL done in 2005 (only 10k ago) should I go ahead and skip these and just do the 2 belts and water pump?
My main question.... If the engine seal kit, oil cooler seal, and rollers were ALL done in 2005 (only 10k ago) should I go ahead and skip these and just do the 2 belts and water pump?
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If all of the shaft seals, o-rings, and rollers, were replaced and the oil cooler housing was re-sealed, AND you have no leaks in those areas, yes, I would skip those items and do just the belts, water pump, and thermostats (another "while you're in there": the little turbo thermostat that goes behind the little plastic elbow that supplies coolant to the turbo).
Edit: The catch here is that if the engine was re-sealed, but the old collars were left in place, they will still wear down and cause a leak. If you have no leaks, you are ok, but if a leak springs up at some point in the future, I would suspect one of those collars has a groove worn in it and needs to be replaced along with new seals again. I did this 3 times chasing oil leaks on my 924S several years ago until someone mentioned the oil pump drive gear as a seal surface, so on the 3rd time in I pulled it and viola... it had a deep groove that was letting oil by. I replaced that $40-ish part and my garage floor stayed clean.
Edit: The catch here is that if the engine was re-sealed, but the old collars were left in place, they will still wear down and cause a leak. If you have no leaks, you are ok, but if a leak springs up at some point in the future, I would suspect one of those collars has a groove worn in it and needs to be replaced along with new seals again. I did this 3 times chasing oil leaks on my 924S several years ago until someone mentioned the oil pump drive gear as a seal surface, so on the 3rd time in I pulled it and viola... it had a deep groove that was letting oil by. I replaced that $40-ish part and my garage floor stayed clean.
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Wherever you are buying your parts from, they should have them. You posted a link to the primary thermostat in your original post (Vertex), but I don't know if they have the turbo thermostat. I buy all of my parts from Zims Autotechnik (they are local, but do mail order also), that's where I bought my turbo coolant thermostat just recently for my re-assembly after a complete tear-down.
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Oh, and get the 160°F thermostat (71°C) to help reduce engine temps a bit. Here's a link to that at Zim's:
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Therm...S_S2_968_.html
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Therm...S_S2_968_.html