Dr. Dynamics

Hi everyone,
Finally had the time to remove my engine due to the oil pressure problem I was having. To recap, I painted the car a year ago now and when I started her up, everything was fine, but when I went down my driveway slope, the oil pressure would go down to 1 bar and the lifters would start complaining pretty loud.

I removed the engine and found what I had thought already...THE PICK UP TUBE!!

When disassembled, I didn't like the looks of the bearings. Also had a lot of residue on the oil. Probably from the balance shaft that was whining. Crank looked fine, just a little polishing would do it. I took some pics of the bearings. #2 looked awful.
The head gasket was nice. No sign of water trespassing to the cylinders.

Need some opinions (smart ones please)...
Also found just two little marks on the cylinder wall of #3... Should I worry about it?

Project Plans...(350+ RWHP for street use)
- Remain 2.5
- ARP Bolts top and bottom (Where can I purchase them?)
- Lighten stock flywheel (in process)
- O ringed Block (in process) w/ Wide Fire
- KEP light pressure plate
- 930 type disk
- Port head
- Match port stock intake. I have an almost finished custom intake but not sure...
- SFR Downpipe
- SFR Testpipe
- Stage II SFR headers (if $$ is available)
- Lindsey Wastegate exhaust
- Lindsey Oil Cooler Kit
- 72lb injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Bosch 930 fuel pump (already purchased)
- Larger Throttle Body (open to suggestions)
- Re-install A/C since it was deleted

Own Goal

I'm only doing my first and only one of these but have done other motors and a couple of Porsche air cooled before. I think you are going beyond what is needed for the 350 on the reliability deal ( nothing wrong with that) but left out the main item to get there.....bigger than K26/6. Didn't go wide fire, didn't o-ring, did add steam vent kit so maybe not blow the stock gasket and Porsche studs up top, ARP down below. Sorry about the pickup. Darn the luck.

Black51

I'm guessing you had oil pressure issues by the looks of that nasty looking bearing. Maybe also the broken pickup tube. What happened there?

Are you only planning on putting new bearings on and fixing the tube and throwing the bottom end back together?

I agree that you'll need a bigger turbo to get that power to the wheel. As well as a MAF. At least I'd get a MAF. I'd spend my money on stuff like that before getting a larger throttle body or headers. Why exactly do you want a bigger throttle body? The stock one's fine for that power level I believe. Have you considered a LR or Vitesse kit(MAF/piggyback & turbo)? Either one of those would send you in the right direction for 350HP. But there's really no point in getting bigger headers or throttle body until other, more restrictive things, like the intake and stock turbo, are increased in size/flow capability.

kev951

You dont need to touch the main studs, keep the originals, unless your making BIG power. - optional depending on how much you have to spend.(someone has to spend a lot of time removing all of those mainstuds that are sealed in the block with Green loctite, I have done this on 5 944 engines and it takes a long time to do it correctly with heat and a good stud removing tool. I have it down to about 3 hours to remove the mainstuds, but it took double that time the first time around! The Headstuds are much less stubborn to remove than the main studs.

ebs racing for your head studs (arp head studs) -again optional , you can get new factory Porsche head studs cheap and are good for the power output you are after.
a bigger throttle body wont help you.
a MODERN NEW turbo and freeflowing exhaust will help dramatically in conjunction with a MODERN MAF system , vs. stock k turbo and VAF.
Change your rod bolts FOR SURE to ARP from Ebs racing.
run a cranksraper , and cross drill / nitride / knife edge your crank.
Balance EVERYTHING you can that is driven off the crankshaft, prefferably on a HINES balancer.
modify your NEW pickup tube in conjuction with a oil pan baffle kit.
leave the head alone unless your planning on boosting over 18psi consistantly.
you can totally mess up air flow if your intake ports in your cylinder head are not ported correctly. -check the ceramics in the exhaust ports now!!

How is your custom intake designed ? Could be a major plus , or major theif of perfomance! You need equal lenghth runners that are tapered for more velocity. - hence the throttle body query (bigger is not always better for forced induction applications) you will actually lose a s@!%load of bottom end torque with a larger TB.) There's alot more to it then just that as far as the intake manifold design goes.

There are soo many variables and ways to go about this, each next step could be another great insurance policy for you , or a major headache,

Pm me if your intrigued . I will be happy to share my advice since building my first 951 track car back in 2001. I am an ASE certified tech and a licensed Enhanced Area Smog Technician in CA . I have taken countless courses on machining, high performance engine theory and engine assembly, (Dema Elgin) <--- The WIZARD of camshaft-ometry hehe and one of many WIZARDS of High Performance Engine Theory.

I am not saying I am a guru or the go to guy, but I have 10 solid years specializing on my 951 track car and client projects, as well as full resorations on their 944/951's (aside from my 15 years of being a Tech in the industry.) I specialize in maintenence and repair on highline european cars, as well as performance and restoration on vintage classics like Alfas, Detomaso's , Talbot Lagos, Ferrari's , Aston Martin's , JAG's and other various classics and mucle cars. I also play guitar in a progressive metal band which is on a long term break and or, finished.

Good luck !! and Sorry if I made things sound intimidating or one sided. I did not intend that in any way. Just my 2 cents. Also, one of the pix shows some light scoring on the cylinder wall, which MIGHT need attention before sealing it all back up and bolting the head back on, but you might get away with it. If it was my motor for the track, I would worry though about the sealing capabilities of that one lightly scored hole if the car is to be tracked or driven in such manner, not so much for street driving.

Chris White

For your target I would suggest a lot of what Kev951 said is right on the money.
I might do it just a little differently – I would go with a standalone system for flexibility (and the fact that I just happen to really like standalone systems!)
I have done quite a few 350rwhp engines using a stock long block (no head or bottom end mods) a standalone, larger injectors, a decent turbo ($1k)and a good wastegate.
The SFR headers are nice parts – but they are not needed for a good street build – better to put that money towards the standalone!
Larger throttle body? Waste of $ for your build.
Do not make the mistake of thinking that the 951 engine can be made into a higher rpm HP motor….it does not respond well to that – aim at big midrange torque, that’s what it does well!

Hey Kev – I have the quick head stud tip for you – works every time. I tig weld the old nuts to the stud, one whack with a hammer (not too hard!) and zip them out with an impact gun. Works every time. The heat from the tig welding release the Loctite, the hammer whack breaks any remaining contact tension and out they come! BTW – I had dinner with Dema a couple of years ago, interesting guy. You have to love the pioneers, especially the ones that liked road racing!

Dr. Dynamics

Thanks for the tips... to clarify on some stuff...I am already runing a SFR Stage 3 turbo which should be allright for my goals. And also am running Megasquirt (MAF eliminated thank god).

Black51 - My oil pressure was starting to get funky at idle. When the car got to operating temp at idle the lifters would cry out. Once running everything was ok. Didnt run much thought since I took her in for the paint job. After painting is when she got scared of hills.

KEV- wow appreciate the tips.
- I read some of the pro guys here talk about the scrapers and cross drilling and all that that it was mostly a waste of time though???
- Kinda had the same thoughts on the TB...


The o ring is a "While I'm there" item. Figured if I wanted to try more boost. I had purchased a MLS gasket a while back for this occasion but I talked with some locals who have bulit various 951 engines for the track and suggested widefire with the o ringed block.

Stage 2 header was in the list (if the wallet allows) since I'm interested in spooling faster.
Chris I TOTALLY agree. I don't want a horsepower monster. Everybody is paying attention to high numbers. Thats why I was planning to keep the stock cam also. I do want to run an occasional autox on the local tracks.

Dr. Dynamics

My current setup was running 300 whp with stock ecm, maf, injectors, chips @ 15 psi and with a pretty bad AF ratio.
I swapped to MS, deleted MAF but havent changed injectors and the car woke up much better and the AF was leaning out since the stock injectors dont do for much. It was leaning out to the mid 13s af ratio.

Kev I'll post some pics of the intake as soon as i can. I got it from a parts exchange but not to fond of it though. It was made starting from a cut up stock runners...its a clone between a SFR with stock cut runners.
Running on the street I tried with juancho's Vitesse Stage 3 equipped 951, and a whole bunch of goodies and I always ran ahead of him. Even with his twin turboed G50. Kinda got mad at me...LOL

I want the car to breath better and spool better...

kev951

I am using a progressive 3" to 4" unrestricted exhaust, wich is a great enhancement all on its own, no cat , just 3 " dowpipe to 3.5" center section where the cat was, and 4" for the remaining rear section. You will have higher boost sooner and it will kick in very hard with an exhaust setup like so with your current turbo config, just make sure your factory headers are crack free. Do you smell any exhaust fumes in the cockpit ?

The stage 2 headers will effect some bottom end torque loss, but will kick *** at top end, the stage 1 try-y from SFR is a good overall balance for power and quicker spooling. Definatley opt for 3 peice crossover and get it all coated in high temp black (SFR uses this).

Like I said in my previous post, the cross drilling and the scrapers will act as an insurance policy for a street car , as well as the oil pan baffle. If you plan on tracking or autcrossing or just driving HARD and FAST, you need better oil lubrication less windage, and lower oil temps. Or, spend WAY MORE money and switch to dry sump, - strictly track car or you just happen to be made of money.
for a street car with occasional track time, at least baffle the oil pan and mod the pickup screen. Usually when o ringing the head or block, the factory or wide fire gasket is your only choice and not a cometic or MLS gasket.

Chris, I just use an accetylene torch on the head studs by heating the block , not the stud , and use a matco stud remover socket (stahlwille design) and they come right out! Then I chase and clean the threads thoughrouly of course. But the main studs are a lot harder and time consuming, atleast from my experience removing them. There seems to be much more loctite used on the main stud threads in the block vs . the head studs.


The Pioneers of all GO FAST are the reason we are all here right!??? \m/
Another WIZARD to mention is Dave Cook Sr. I got all of my ford and mustang schooling via Mr. Cook Sr. He is a BEAST!

VWaddict

When you say 'deleted MAF' do you mean deleted the stock air meter, and REPLACED it with a MAF?

-Keith

Dr. Dynamics

Got rid of it. Straight from the filter to the turbo...I'm running with MAP sensor and intake air temp

Nope. I actually have a newer header (90') since juanchovidal's car was fitted with a SFR stage 1 and he gave me his headers. My old ones were cracked.
So I guess it would be a better option to sell my 3" SFR catback and go 4"

Anyone interested?
Which one do you have KEV?

333pg333

Juancho, Wachuko...sounds like a Marx bros film. That'll go over most people's heads in here.

I'd like to see that intake too. There doesn't seem like there is a definitive aftermarket one out there with total user confidence or hard evidence to back it up.

Dr. Dynamics

Here are some intake pics...
Opinions...do I stick with a matchported stock or do I finish this one. The guy who made it does this for a living for local racing cars.

JohnKoaWood

That is because the factory did a pretty good job on balance of low, mid, and top end power out of the stock intake, the AM ones available maximize one area, while sacrificing another.. intake tuning is a bit of an art, and not a whole lot to maximize on a forced induction motor while on boost..

IMHO for a street car, match port the stock intake, and stick with it.. the intake pictured MAY improve top end power production but will likely do so at the sacrifice of low end torque and off boost performance.... unequal runners, with multiple turns and transitions inside will hurt off boost performance, where a street car spend most of its time...

But this is just my 2C, take it or leave it... just remember whats good on a race car, doesn't always cary over to a street car... plenty of real world examples out there... but it is your car, and you can do whatever you like with it!

slap929

Thats a cool intake. I want to do something similar to that, but I really want to keep the runners the same length. Would chop up a stock intake in a similar manner. Good luck with your build. Please post as many pictures as you can. I am hopefully going to be following you for some help with my rebuild when I get my engine.

333pg333

John there are plenty of people who have questioned the stock intake and blame the design for mismatched flow which inturn can/have possibly caused problems...however this may also be anecdotal or bench racing. Not too many have flowed the stock one and I don't think I've seen any hard data showing comparisons between them, modified stock, and aftermarket. This would be nice to see but it's highly unlikely to happen publicly for all the obvious reasons. The one on my 3L is extruded honed and has had some mods done to equalise flow. The builder of that Yellow aussie racecar saw a picture of it and suggested that no matter what you do to the stock intake it would cause failure somewhere along the line...in a racecar application. He said that they had flowed all the components and this was his conclusion. He also said that the stock TB would flow something like 1130cfm which contradicts current beliefs. Perhaps flow benches are like dynos. You can get all sorts of reads?