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i bought it like 3 weeks ago, the thing is i dont know why it doesnt have bolts to mount to the turbo
?????
The turbo has studs, so youd need nuts and washers (copper nuts are best) for the downpipe. Is that what you meant?
For the triangle shaped connection to the catback, the original downpipe had studs but most aftermarket ones use regular nuts and bolts (again copper nuts are best).
i though it was the stock turbo down pipe that has studs?
At the turbo end, you use 4 studs to attach the downpipe. At the triangle flange, you use 3 studs to attach the test pipe. In the picture I posted, I had installed studs already, which I picked up at the hardware store. The downpipe didn't come with studs.
Just to add, i have the 3'' mid pipe (section between the downpipe and cat-back) and its indeed a very nice piece. Clean welds and nice smooth bends. Looks great being polished when people stick there head under my car to see what kinda 'hardware' im running. The copper gasket between the downpipe and midpipe also is nice, no annoying crush rings or seal rings to deal with, and its reusable!
Swapping my cat in and out takes all of 15 minutes with the car in the air.
I wish i had known you guys sold a replacement downpipe also.. would have bought one when i had the turbo out this winter! Regarding the lack of flange to tie the downpipe to the block, as mentioned alot of people just leave this out and have never had problems. I decided to put it back in for the sole reason of i do not like the idea of almost the entire weight of the exhaust system being held up by the hotside of the turbo. Granted there is the mounting point right around where the wastegate ties in, but still it makes me feel a little better the weight load is not being carried by the hotside. Besides, i have read many stories of how that bolt is a nightmare to get.. i was able to easily thread it in by hand (twice!) from under the car, tightening required a 13 socket with built in flex joint and some careful maneuvering to get the socket seated. It was not bad at all though, i still vote the crossover inlet flange bolt (with nut welded onto flange) is far more annoying in dealing with a turbo swap.
Hi Paseb and members of the board who are adding some great information on the installation of the product. We dont include the hardware with the downpipe but if you need some copper nuts, PM me with your information and I'll get some out to you.
Originally Posted by Techno Duck
Just to add, i have the 3'' mid pipe (section between the downpipe and cat-back) and its indeed a very nice piece. Clean welds and nice smooth bends. Looks great being polished when people stick there head under my car to see what kinda 'hardware' im running. The copper gasket between the downpipe and midpipe also is nice, no annoying crush rings or seal rings to deal with, and its reusable!
Swapping my cat in and out takes all of 15 minutes with the car in the air.
I wish i had known you guys sold a replacement downpipe also.. would have bought one when i had the turbo out this winter! Regarding the lack of flange to tie the downpipe to the block, as mentioned alot of people just leave this out and have never had problems. I decided to put it back in for the sole reason of i do not like the idea of almost the entire weight of the exhaust system being held up by the hotside of the turbo. Granted there is the mounting point right around where the wastegate ties in, but still it makes me feel a little better the weight load is not being carried by the hotside. Besides, i have read many stories of how that bolt is a nightmare to get.. i was able to easily thread it in by hand (twice!) from under the car, tightening required a 13 socket with built in flex joint and some careful maneuvering to get the socket seated. It was not bad at all though, i still vote the crossover inlet flange bolt (with nut welded onto flange) is far more annoying in dealing with a turbo swap.
Hi Techno Duck, thanks for the feedback and we came out with our Turbo top pipe right around last summer, so you may have just missed it. It does look very nice under the car when the full system is installed. If you decide to get the turbo top pipe at a later time, PM or email me and I will honor you the Rennlist discount for $250 when you are ready. Let me know if you have any questions.
PM or email me and I will honor you the Rennlist discount for $250 when you are ready. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Alex@fabspeed
Alex,
Do you guys still offer this Rennlist discount? I'm in the market for one, with a different hotside flange if that's something you guys are willing to do at that price or similar.
Do you guys still offer this Rennlist discount? I'm in the market for one, with a different hotside flange if that's something you guys are willing to do at that price or similar.
Hello odonnell,
My name is John Gaydos, Fabspeed's Porsche Specialist. We do have discounts available for our forum members, although much has changed in the last seven years since this thread has been active.
4.0" is no longer being available. Here are the current 944T offerings and current pricing, although given this might be seen several years from now...always check our website for accurate pricing
Hi John@Fabspeed. I just went to buy a 951 Outlet Top Pipe but hesitated when I saw the shipping/tax/handling price (to the UK) £198 , pipe unit cost £316. Total - £515.
Hi John@Fabspeed. I just went to buy a 951 Outlet Top Pipe but hesitated when I saw the shipping/tax/handling price (to the UK) £198 , pipe unit cost £316. Total - £515.
Love the £316 but the £198 seems harsh.
Let me see what I can do on the shipping costs for you. PM heading your way for the address
I was serious when I asked for an "upsell" on a downpipe too. I asked for O2 sensor bung but not possible? Fine, but would of liked a quote for the stock pipe delivery to the UK.
I have had my cat back Fabspeed 3" system for a few years now and love it. Sounds awesome, smoothed out the transition to boost compared to the system PO had put on, and looks amazing.
My car was off the road for about 18 months and to my horror, the system looked terrible when we had car on the hoist.
after about 3 hours of polishing with polish that was past its used by date this
I was stoked it was looking awesome again. It is testament to the quality that it came back looking perfect after the neglect.
BTW Normally I give it a once over every month or so, and that only takes ten minutes to keep it looking perfect.
John, just curious. We are looking at going from a 3" turbo outlet to a 3.5" or 4" system. The intention is to try and taper the transition through the downpipe rather than a sudden bump/sharp angle. With the downpipe being a twisted shape it's not so easy. I've seen a series of short cylinders welded together or a wedge inserted to flare out for the larger side. I'm wondering how you guys might do this?
02-11-2009, 06:52 PM
