928 GTS calipers installed (but painted red of course), 86 951...
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
928 GTS calipers installed (but painted red of course), 86 951...
Thought I would post up the project I started once my starter went out and it was sitting in the air (still waiting on starter to arrive...)
Car has been due for new brakes for some time and I figured since it was going to be apart - might as well upgrade. Its a little long winded but I wanted to give the 86 guys who maybe thinking about this the run down...
Fitting the 86 with the 928GTS/993tt calipers isn't as easy as the 87+ cars and after talking with Karl at Racers Edge, reading lots of past threads and wanting to track the car I decided to upgrade to the late hubs/spindles as they are more robust (so I hear) and it allows the 3.6 turbo or 928GTS rotor to bolt right up and the calipers to bolt on with a simple set of adapters.
To do the swap on my 86, I bought the following:
-Set of caliper adapters from Auto Edge
-1987 hubs/spindles (cleaned up and rebuilt with new bearings)
-3.6 turbo rotors from Sunset Imports
-Good condition used Big Black calipers
-I went with BHP XPS pads which should be good for the dual purpose of this car...maybe a little noisy for the street but Im ok with that.
After removing all the 86 stuff I started installing the late spindle/hub and then slid on the rotor and tightened it down. It all mates up perfectly - due to me keeping my early offset tie rods / control arms I will retain early offset so on went my 1" spacers and then attached the brake lines and mounted up the calipers and checked clearances. All looks good but couldn't keep the stock brake shields - they no longer clear.
With that said, pics!:
Test fitting wheel:
I am ordering Ground Control camber plates tomorrow as with the "mixed" early/late setup you lose some camber adjustment and this should solve it. I have read you can -maybe- get away with it on a pure street car but since I will track it I need the added adjustment. Also will be adding the 968 brake cooling setup and ordering new bleeder caps.
How I painted them:
Calipers were standard black when I got them and since they were off a 928 the mounting position of the brake hard lines / bleeders was correct so I just taped off the pistons, stripped the paint with a paint stripper, sanded, sanded, sanded. Shot them with adhesion promoter (thanks Dan) and used 6 coats of VHT red high-temp caliper paint, added silver decals, then 2 coats of VHT caliper clear gloss. Paint was pretty easy to use, Id recommend it.
Last picture is the oil cooler going in next, just got the fittings needed for the oil cooler housing and cooler (4 x M22AN10) - will get it mocked up and measure the lines and have them made here at Earl's in Indy. Will go on the passenger side.
Ill be sure and update the thread once the starter is back in and I get to try out the new brakes. Can't wait, haven't driven it since I drove it home from the dyno a few weeks back
Car has been due for new brakes for some time and I figured since it was going to be apart - might as well upgrade. Its a little long winded but I wanted to give the 86 guys who maybe thinking about this the run down...
Fitting the 86 with the 928GTS/993tt calipers isn't as easy as the 87+ cars and after talking with Karl at Racers Edge, reading lots of past threads and wanting to track the car I decided to upgrade to the late hubs/spindles as they are more robust (so I hear) and it allows the 3.6 turbo or 928GTS rotor to bolt right up and the calipers to bolt on with a simple set of adapters.
To do the swap on my 86, I bought the following:
-Set of caliper adapters from Auto Edge
-1987 hubs/spindles (cleaned up and rebuilt with new bearings)
-3.6 turbo rotors from Sunset Imports
-Good condition used Big Black calipers
-I went with BHP XPS pads which should be good for the dual purpose of this car...maybe a little noisy for the street but Im ok with that.
After removing all the 86 stuff I started installing the late spindle/hub and then slid on the rotor and tightened it down. It all mates up perfectly - due to me keeping my early offset tie rods / control arms I will retain early offset so on went my 1" spacers and then attached the brake lines and mounted up the calipers and checked clearances. All looks good but couldn't keep the stock brake shields - they no longer clear.
With that said, pics!:
Test fitting wheel:
I am ordering Ground Control camber plates tomorrow as with the "mixed" early/late setup you lose some camber adjustment and this should solve it. I have read you can -maybe- get away with it on a pure street car but since I will track it I need the added adjustment. Also will be adding the 968 brake cooling setup and ordering new bleeder caps.
How I painted them:
Calipers were standard black when I got them and since they were off a 928 the mounting position of the brake hard lines / bleeders was correct so I just taped off the pistons, stripped the paint with a paint stripper, sanded, sanded, sanded. Shot them with adhesion promoter (thanks Dan) and used 6 coats of VHT red high-temp caliper paint, added silver decals, then 2 coats of VHT caliper clear gloss. Paint was pretty easy to use, Id recommend it.
Last picture is the oil cooler going in next, just got the fittings needed for the oil cooler housing and cooler (4 x M22AN10) - will get it mocked up and measure the lines and have them made here at Earl's in Indy. Will go on the passenger side.
Ill be sure and update the thread once the starter is back in and I get to try out the new brakes. Can't wait, haven't driven it since I drove it home from the dyno a few weeks back
#3
you're negating the added strength of the late offset parts with your added leverage
just upgrade to late tie rods and control arms, at the same time install spherical control arm bushings
also when you change camber you change toe, if this is a duel purpose car set your camber at -2 and your toe at zero and you will have the grip you want without eating up tires
just upgrade to late tie rods and control arms, at the same time install spherical control arm bushings
also when you change camber you change toe, if this is a duel purpose car set your camber at -2 and your toe at zero and you will have the grip you want without eating up tires
#7
Burning Brakes
1" bolt on spacers on the front is asking for trouble. A arms, spindles and hubs are prone to failure even with the MO30 setup and Fabcar/Racers edge parts. You would be running a risk even on a street car never mind a track car with wide, sticky tires and agressive driving. Any failure on the front end will negate all your efforts.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Arlington, TX
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Dude, forget the calipers, I want to see more pics of the rest of the car -- the pain on that car looks amazing! Recent respray? I'm so jealous
(Oh, except for the fact that my hood stays up on its own )
(Oh, except for the fact that my hood stays up on its own )
#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks all, point taken on the spacers..I knew that was coming. I have ran them for 10 years now in varying sizes and for now they stay but I will look into collecting the parts to swap in at a later time.
Dan, First I used tape and masked off the inside of the caliper and screwed in a 10mm grease fitting into the brake line hole. I used paint stripper to take the clearcoat off (took a few times to get most of it off - you basically paint it on with a brush) and then used sandpaper (rougher -> finer) until the surface was smooth all over. I used a Paint prep wax/grease remover prior to painting to clean the surface and then sprayed 2 light coats of adhesion promoter before actually applying the color coats.
Dan, First I used tape and masked off the inside of the caliper and screwed in a 10mm grease fitting into the brake line hole. I used paint stripper to take the clearcoat off (took a few times to get most of it off - you basically paint it on with a brush) and then used sandpaper (rougher -> finer) until the surface was smooth all over. I used a Paint prep wax/grease remover prior to painting to clean the surface and then sprayed 2 light coats of adhesion promoter before actually applying the color coats.
#11
Rennlist Member
Very nice Sam, it's nice to know there are options for us Early car guys to retain our backspacing and still have big brakes. I had never even heard of this option b4. Nice work!
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
Most of the car has been reshot, not all though. Funny enough my hood does stay up on its own but I almost always put up a bar if its going to be up for a decent amount of time...Im just nervous I guess.
#15
Rennlist Member
1" bolt on spacers on the front is asking for trouble. A arms, spindles and hubs are prone to failure even with the MO30 setup and Fabcar/Racers edge parts. You would be running a risk even on a street car never mind a track car with wide, sticky tires and agressive driving. Any failure on the front end will negate all your efforts.
I don't follow your logic on this... He's using spacers with a late offset wheel. With 1" (~25 mm) spacers, the effective offset (and resulting forces on the a-arms, spindles, and hubs) is about equivalent to using early offset wheels. The only difference would be the added weight of the spacers themselves (which are probably not much compared to the total wheel/tire combo). Is your concern related to the fact that he changed the hubs and spindles to the late offset ones; am I missing something?
I think your concerns would make sense if he was using spacers with early offset wheels, which would push the wheel centerlines out (increasing track). That would give bump and cornering forces more leverage on the hub, spindle, wheel bearings, etc.
Edit: I think I see what you're saying now... but the problem isn't the spacers, it is with using an (effectively) early offset wheel package with a late offset hub and spindle. I agree that this could be a problem...
_