jlturpin

Is there anyway to remove the Oil separator from the 944 turbo without removing the turbo to replace the seals? Thanks.....

NZ951

No.

Happy turbo removal PS if it has not been off before, get new hardware in advance, stuff will be snapping left right and centre.

MPD47

Nope, the turbo has to come out, you just dont have the clearance to get it out of the block otherwise. There was talk about cutting some heat shield to get to the bottem bolt, but I dont see how you could even get it out.

jimbo1111

You can can cut a hole in the shield witch covers the lower bolt on the aos. Remove the bolt with a deep socket. Than remove the intake manifold and lift it out. It's tite but can be done.

daniel951

yes it can be done because i just got done doing it recently it was a pain in the *** though but possible . the sucky part is that the car still leaked after that work LOL. because it was something else.

jlturpin

OK, 2 yes and 2 no. Anyone else???

daniel951

i dont have my heat shield in there anymore now though since i decided just to wrap the downpipe so it would save me the trouble of screwing it back in. Plus it used to rattle alot.

jlturpin

can you post a quick how to? I Would really appriciate it.

Crazy Eddie

Make sure you replace the top seal of the OAS there is an O ring in the top of the cap
It is a leaker. I just removed mine and it looked like a used condom that was left out in the sun
There is a procedure to remove the cap, if not followed you will crack it ..
The O ring can be gotten from a gentleman named Scott Gomes for around 6 bucks
regards
Ed

daniel951

well i think what helped me was that the heat shield was loose already in there. Also i made a slit in the heat shield to get it out and didn't plan on putting it back in since i wrapped the downpipe. Basically there is no method really of getting it out just trying to get a allen head in there. we took of our allen head tools and and cut it shorter to get in there

Crazy Eddie

Daniel
Did you use allen heads to replace the orig. hex heads ?
Thx
Ed

daniel951

they must have been replaced from before because when i took them off i used a allen head? i didn't know they were something else

Chris Prack

It can be done but it is a huge PIA. Do yourself a favor and just pull the turbo, it sucks but you will probably end up spending the same amount of time either way.

z3bra

It's a smidge of an old thread resurrection here, but that's a 50 cent Nitrile o-ring. I just swapped it out for a "dash" size. Dash sizes refer to AS568 which defines standard aerospace o-ring sizes. It's pretty much the defacto standard for all o-rings in the US. I picked up one that was a very close match even though it's a dash size and not metric and it seals perfectly. Just measure it with a caliper and get an idea on the inside diameter of the o-ring (when you measure the ID, do it without distorting the o-ring from a round shape and then measure the cross section). Convert to inches and then look those dimensions up in a table of dash size o-rings for the right size. The whole point of o-rings is to seal things despite minor variances which means you can cheat a little bit and get away with it. If you have a decent o-ring/seal supplier, they usually have a big plastic cone that they measure o-rings with that is much easier to use for obvious reasons.

I remembered that I have a spare o-ring for the top of the OAS and just measured it, The ring you want is a -151. It's not exact but chances are most o-ring suppliers will have one in stock and it's absolutely close enough to use in a static seal application like almost all of the o-rings used on our cars are.

Here's some links on o-ring sizing:

http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/1.../14105_118.htm

Tpub.com has all sorts of interesting stuff on it, definitely worth looking through if you have the time.

These other guys have a couple of great pages with all the AS568-*** o-ring sizes and their charts have metric equivalence and tolerances.

http://www.vedovell.com/o-ring.html

Here's the link directly to the first page of the dash size charts.

http://www.vedovell.com/aerosp.html

On the vedovell page for the -151 ring, they had a dyslexic moment or something and transposed the dimension of the inside diameter for that one it's 75.87 mm not the 57.87 they list.

The places where I would go with the factory o-rings are any of the green ones like the oil cooler, the crank on the oil pump splined sleeve behind the lower timing belt gear and some of the other ones on cylindrical parts like the upper cam gear cover that seals it against the cam housing. Pretty much any other one you can use a dash size and be fine. With the exception of the turbo bearing section rings, (and the green ones from the factory) they're all just Nitrile o-rings. The turbo bearing section related ones need to be Viton (these are the two that are about $10 each from official sources and are between the engine mount and turbo bearing section and then between the engine mount and the oil return line from the turbo). If I didn't always seem to have a bunch of the green ones already for the oil cooler/turbo oil-supply line I'd get a Viton ring for the upper turbo oil line as well but apparently the factory seems to think the green stuff is good enough.

There's plenty of things on our cars that cost a lot for what they are (and some rightfully so). O-rings shouldn't be on that list. Neither should the fire-rings in the stock exhaust system but I haven't had much luck cracking that nut via industrial suppliers yet.

Oh and be careful with the cap on the AOS, with all the heat cycling it's seen over the years, it can be brittle. Get 6 el-cheapo mini flat blade screwdrivers (like the ones companies always give out with their logo and phone number printed on them) and use those to carefully disengage the locking tabs. It's still a PITA to get the lid off but just take it easy and you should be fine.

potent951turbo

If the AOS O-Rings were totally bad (cracked and brittle) would the car smoke out the exhaust at all?