Another S4 chain tensioner pad R&R for posterity
10-12-2010, 04:38 PM
#31
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I had meant to respond when you asked about the washers that I didn't think there were any, and now I'm sure there aren't. 
10-12-2010, 08:15 PM
#32
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02-27-2013, 06:40 PM
#33
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I am working the driver side and am having a problem getting the tensioner out. It seems to be hung up on the grooves in the pad below. Any suggestions for compressing the lower pad? And once the I have it compressed, it simply comes out as a single piece?
02-27-2013, 06:53 PM
#35
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The two pads compress together and it the tensioner comes out as a single piece. The spring in the early 32V version makes it hard to push together (the later style piston is purely hydraulic - no spring), but its doable.
From memory I used some needle-nose vise grips to hold it compressed - but first make sure the cam lobes are protected (e.g. couple of layers of cotton towels or similar) in case you slip.
From memory I used some needle-nose vise grips to hold it compressed - but first make sure the cam lobes are protected (e.g. couple of layers of cotton towels or similar) in case you slip.
02-27-2013, 09:00 PM
#36
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So, the short end of the 's' pipe on the left side attaches to the tensioner, right?
02-27-2013, 09:08 PM
#37
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By left I assume you mean 5-8 cylinder bank? Here's a shot of the chain tensioner on the driver's (U.S.) side in Hebert's engine:
02-27-2013, 09:49 PM
#38
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Sorry i don't know my left from my right. I meant right side aka passengerside.
02-27-2013, 09:55 PM
#39
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OK - I see pictures in this thread showing engines out of the bay with cam covers removed. That makes it easy peezy.
BUT
How do you get to the bottom row of bolts on the cam cover with the engine IN the bay?
Surely it is possible, but I can barely SEE the bolt heads, let alone trying to reach them with any kind of tool.
BUT
How do you get to the bottom row of bolts on the cam cover with the engine IN the bay?
Surely it is possible, but I can barely SEE the bolt heads, let alone trying to reach them with any kind of tool.
02-27-2013, 11:18 PM
#40
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Yes, that is correct. The "long side" is necessary for the pipe to "clear" the camshaft. Put the "short" side toward the camshaft and sometimes the cam will hit it and rub a hole into the oil line.
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greg brown
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
02-28-2013, 12:44 AM
#41
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The main body of the bits is 10mm - so I use them with a 10mm ratcheting spanner around the main body of the bit.
02-28-2013, 12:54 AM
#42
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Steve - I use one of the allen bits from one of my sets like the one below - also has XZN bits (flywheel/cam cap). For some locations (e.g. where PS hose is) the short ones work, for others (aft-end ones) I can get away with the longer bits.
The main body of the bits is 10mm - so I use them with a 10mm ratcheting spanner around the main body of the bit.
The main body of the bits is 10mm - so I use them with a 10mm ratcheting spanner around the main body of the bit.
According to the Prime Minister's bed-buddy, all I need now is a set of asian female proctologist's hands.
02-28-2013, 09:45 PM
#43
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Passengerside proved more difficult than the driverside. Wrangling the lower banjo bolt into the hole while aligning the crush washer and holding the 's' tube was too much for me. :-) What I did was place the crush washer in place, attach the upper 's' to the tensioner with only the lower bolt holding the tensioner. This way I could place the banjo bolt into place with ease.
Anyway the pads are replaced.
Anyway the pads are replaced.
03-04-2015, 09:09 PM
#44
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I got access to a calibrated low torque wrench that can measured very precisely from 0 to 75 in.Lbs. and determine that 7 ft lbs = 84 in lbs
03-04-2015, 09:30 PM
#45
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Could you confirm the 7 ft lbs torque spec is correct...?
