Changing The Fuel Filter
04-24-2003, 12:58 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Changing The Fuel Filter
OK,
I'm changing my fuel filter along with some other maintenance this weekend. Anything I should be aware of?
Is there a trick to not having fuel spray all over the place or is it fairly straightforward?
First time for this so I would like to know for sure...
Thanx
I'm changing my fuel filter along with some other maintenance this weekend. Anything I should be aware of?
Is there a trick to not having fuel spray all over the place or is it fairly straightforward?
First time for this so I would like to know for sure...
Thanx
04-24-2003, 10:18 AM
#2
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Fuel Filter change
I replaced mine a few months ago. I wasn't aware that it was possible to "pinch" off the supply hose....I didn't see anything but metal hoses.
See post #4 below
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!! Gas + sparks = bad news <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
Make sure your work space is well-ventilated.
Anyway, it's fairly simple. Just be certain that you've got something to catch the fuel, counter hold the nuts when you loosen/tighten them, and be careful not to jar the fuel pump as you bang around down there. It's easy to cause a fuel leak.
Once done, the car will take a few seconds of turning over before starting as fuel fills the system again.
The replacement process shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes including cleanup time.
By the way.....if you're going to use gloves...and you should, make sure they're not the type that completely fall apart as soon as gasoline hits them. That smell is hard to wash off if you get a good dose of gas on your hands.
See post #4 below
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!! Gas + sparks = bad news <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
Make sure your work space is well-ventilated.
Anyway, it's fairly simple. Just be certain that you've got something to catch the fuel, counter hold the nuts when you loosen/tighten them, and be careful not to jar the fuel pump as you bang around down there. It's easy to cause a fuel leak.
Once done, the car will take a few seconds of turning over before starting as fuel fills the system again.
The replacement process shouldn't take more than about 20 minutes including cleanup time.
By the way.....if you're going to use gloves...and you should, make sure they're not the type that completely fall apart as soon as gasoline hits them. That smell is hard to wash off if you get a good dose of gas on your hands.
Last edited by bhensarl; 05-10-2005 at 11:29 PM.
04-24-2003, 06:30 PM
#3
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Bernie,
It's not too difficult. I did both my 81 and 90.
I put a write up on my site:
928 Fuel Filter walkthrough
The only part that was tricky is to remove the fuel
line going to the front of the car first, then
unscrew the filter from the fuel line that loops
around to the fuel pump. Also use two wrenchs, one
on the fuel line, one on the filter.
It's not too difficult. I did both my 81 and 90.
I put a write up on my site:
928 Fuel Filter walkthrough
The only part that was tricky is to remove the fuel
line going to the front of the car first, then
unscrew the filter from the fuel line that loops
around to the fuel pump. Also use two wrenchs, one
on the fuel line, one on the filter.
Last edited by bhensarl; 05-10-2005 at 11:19 PM.
04-24-2003, 08:42 PM
#4
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The hose which you need to pinch is the rubber hose that attaches to the bottom of the fuel tank and to the fuel pump . If that is closed no fuel can run out of the tank through the fuel pump to leak out when you unhook the metal lines to the filter . A small amount will drain back from the fuel lines and out of the pump but fuel does not compress so the difference between 40lbs pressure and no pressure is only a few drops of fuel ; it does not spray out for a long time . (your garden hose does , not because the water compressed but because the rubber hose expands ). But do be careful fuel in the eyes hurts . Now the 78-79 CIS cars and CIS euro cars have a fuel accumulator which does hold pressure and it can spray out a cup of fuel .
05-10-2005, 11:33 PM
#5
Jarhead
Rennlist Member
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Here are a few more good tips...
Originally Posted by Wally P
Big Dave made some good points - I wanted to add a couple of comments ...
It is very difficult to avoid spilling some fuel while doing this, but two things can help.
a) Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to remove the residual pressure. (There SHOULD be residual pressure.)
b) You can buy line clamps with smooth round jaws that can be used to clamp off rubber fuel lines to prevent fuel flow.
I STRONGLY recommend using safety goggles - fuel in the eyes is no fun, nor is dirt. You will be working over your head, and this can be really risky for your eyes.
Be careful when you remove the filter that you don't jostle the fuel pump...leaks are easy to cause. I had one dripping from the rubber boot on the ground wire, but tightening all the pump connections stopped it.
Be CERTAIN to counter-hold every connection (two wrenches, one to loosen, one to keep from twisting the connection. Also use one wrench to tighten and one to hold - if you tighten a line with twist in the metal lines, the connection will loosen in a few days.
Be CERTAIN to get the sealing rings back in the right places.
Be CERTAIN to get the filter and lines back in the correct orientations, and that none of the lines touch the body. If you leave a line where it can touch the body, the pump will be very noisy.
You don't need to jack the rear end up, but it makes things easier.
A floor jack under the heavy aluminium cross-member is the easy way.
It is very difficult to avoid spilling some fuel while doing this, but two things can help.
a) Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to remove the residual pressure. (There SHOULD be residual pressure.)
b) You can buy line clamps with smooth round jaws that can be used to clamp off rubber fuel lines to prevent fuel flow.
I STRONGLY recommend using safety goggles - fuel in the eyes is no fun, nor is dirt. You will be working over your head, and this can be really risky for your eyes.
Be careful when you remove the filter that you don't jostle the fuel pump...leaks are easy to cause. I had one dripping from the rubber boot on the ground wire, but tightening all the pump connections stopped it.
Be CERTAIN to counter-hold every connection (two wrenches, one to loosen, one to keep from twisting the connection. Also use one wrench to tighten and one to hold - if you tighten a line with twist in the metal lines, the connection will loosen in a few days.
Be CERTAIN to get the sealing rings back in the right places.
Be CERTAIN to get the filter and lines back in the correct orientations, and that none of the lines touch the body. If you leave a line where it can touch the body, the pump will be very noisy.
You don't need to jack the rear end up, but it makes things easier.
A floor jack under the heavy aluminium cross-member is the easy way.
