16V accelerator sticky
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
16V accelerator sticky - fixed!
I have had a sticky accelerator for some time and it got to the point that I was afraid it would lock up or fail.
I replaced the accelerator cable over the weekend. The old cable exterior covering was rock had and cracked apart during removal. The new cable seemed better but I still feel like I am having to push past something from rest into initial acceleration. Travel beyond idle seems fine.
While manually rotating the throttle body quadrant by hand it feels a bit stiff out of idle. Not sure if there is an adjustment to ensure the cable is not pulling directly back against dead center post rather than rotating the quadrant around the post if that make sense?
Also noticed that the gas pedal it self has three rows of bolt holes from driver seat to firewall and my pedal was secured in the set of holes closest to the firewall. Not sure why the different mount positions are there beyond driver comfort.
I replaced the accelerator cable over the weekend. The old cable exterior covering was rock had and cracked apart during removal. The new cable seemed better but I still feel like I am having to push past something from rest into initial acceleration. Travel beyond idle seems fine.
While manually rotating the throttle body quadrant by hand it feels a bit stiff out of idle. Not sure if there is an adjustment to ensure the cable is not pulling directly back against dead center post rather than rotating the quadrant around the post if that make sense?
Also noticed that the gas pedal it self has three rows of bolt holes from driver seat to firewall and my pedal was secured in the set of holes closest to the firewall. Not sure why the different mount positions are there beyond driver comfort.
Last edited by jwillman; 04-09-2017 at 06:38 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Over the weekend I tried moving the accelerator pedal to the mount holes closest the drivers seat thinking it might be binding on the pivot dog bone as it was almost vertical in orientation.
I still have a "catch" at idle when initially trying to depress the accelerator.
Back to the drawing board!
I still have a "catch" at idle when initially trying to depress the accelerator.
Back to the drawing board!
#3
Nordschleife Master
The holes are just for driver comfort. I've wanted to move mine for years to align the accelerator with the brake to try some heel/toe braking.
Have you tried to lube the throttle mechanism itself? Some have a mechanism to change opening action. Hard to describe but I can see that wearing.
Have you tried to lube the throttle mechanism itself? Some have a mechanism to change opening action. Hard to describe but I can see that wearing.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The holes are just for driver comfort. I've wanted to move mine for years to align the accelerator with the brake to try some heel/toe braking.
Have you tried to lube the throttle mechanism itself? Some have a mechanism to change opening action. Hard to describe but I can see that wearing.
Have you tried to lube the throttle mechanism itself? Some have a mechanism to change opening action. Hard to describe but I can see that wearing.
While actuating it at the throttle body quadrant I don't see where the throttle cable is binding against anything and seems the CC cable is moving. That said I have the CC electronic control module out now as it needs rebuilding per the troubleshooting tree, CC has never worked.
#6
Rennlist Member
Could the catch be on the cable under the intake? I don't have my WSM handy so in basing this off the S4 intake that I work on not a pre S4
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The 16V cars and specifically the 78/79 have not electronics and a very open area below the intake arms for the linkage. Its completely unobstructed in comparison to the 32V cars.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I'd reach in past the distributor and see if the throttle mechanism itself feels sticky. With a little light you'll see if there's a mechanism on that. It's designed to make the throttle opening non-linear with pedal action. This allows finer adjustments at low throttle for cruising.
#9
Rennlist Member
Had one stick in full throttle position on an 84 auto.
It was sand and mouse pee and debris and corrosion binding the throttle spring/shaft at the throttlebody.
It was sand and mouse pee and debris and corrosion binding the throttle spring/shaft at the throttlebody.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'd reach in past the distributor and see if the throttle mechanism itself feels sticky. With a little light you'll see if there's a mechanism on that. It's designed to make the throttle opening non-linear with pedal action. This allows finer adjustments at low throttle for cruising.
I sprayed some WD40 onto the tension springs on the throttle quadrant and throttle travel is smooth and light.
Thanks for your persistance with me