SQLGuy

As the topic says, I get oil drips and small puddles even after long term sitting in the garage. The OPG was replaced with a silicone one shortly before I bought the car - probably 10K miles ago. The RMS was replaced when the torque tube bearings were done - about 5K miles ago.

I'm thinking RMS, anyway. Certainly looks like that's where it's coming from. I'm thinking of pulling the undertrays and bringing it down to have the engine and undercarriage steam cleaned, to see for sure, but are there any other areas that might result in such a standing, non-running, leak?

BTW, I do know, regardless, that I need to change seals at the tranny. IIRC, both the input shaft seal and the selector shaft seal are leaking. Not looking forward to doing any of these... the last time I had to remove a shift coupler, it was an utter nightmare.

dr bob

Long-term sitting seldom reveals rear main seal leaks, mostly because the oil level is well below the crank centerline. I wouldn't count it out as a possibility, but if it's dry when you drive yet drips when parked, that would move lower on my list.

You are certainly on the right track with the idea of cleaning everything and looking for seepage. My feeble memory says you have a 32V car, so the list of popular leaks starts at the valley, with the oil filler neck gaskets and the vapor hoses. Telltales for thes include oil in the valley, visible generally by looking under the manifold. On the later blocks there's a drain hole towards the rear that directs the oil towards the top of the bellhousing, and dribbles it down in a fashion that might lead one to believe they have a main seal leak. Moving to the sides, we get to the cam covers and the multitude of seals and the oil vapor hoses. Moving lower we get to oil cooler hoses, the filter and the drain plug. And that oil pan gasket of course. At the front of the engine, oil comes from the AC compressor (not good), the front crank seal (same height as the rear main seal...), the dipstick tube (o-ring) and the oil level switch (gasket), usually visible on the top of the front of the oil sump looking down through the accessory belts.

Power steering system leaks may look like oil leaks after they've washed some road grime from engine bay surfaces on their way to the ground. Ditto transmission cooler plumbing. Leaks from the steering rack are obvious at the banjo hose fittings, and from rack boots.

As much as I love the extra-clean available from steam cleaning, a less-than-expert user can do damage to electrical bits and some soft parts underneath. If the bottom is extremely grimy, I might use some spray engine degreaser (I use Gunk Foamy Engine Brite) to get the thick stuff off. That gets followed with a detergent wash (Simple Green, etc.) Stay away from the Purple Power and similar products, as they are pretty caustic and will risk discoloration of aluminum parts if not rinsed completely. Labels will warn you about use on aluminum.

GregBBRD

Don't clean until you locate the leaks!

People that clean their engine, so I can "see" the leaks are my worst nightmare....makes my job many times more difficult. Just wiping away the drips, with a rag, is bad!

It's like a detective showing up at the scene oF a crime....after the clean-up people have been there.

Most "leaks" are seepage.....not huge "gushers".

All the clues (oil trails, drips) are present, right now. Follow the clues to the sources.

Clean as you repair the leaks....or after they are repaired....only!

Adamant1971

Get some engine oil dye, glasses and a UV lite.

And per Greg DO NOT CLEAN yet.

Guy

My new rear main leaked and leaked while sitting. The seal was filling with oil while running and then draining out slowly over the course of a couple days. Just my experience in my case