ROG100

Most only change the early arm if the small ball pivot point breaks.
Because the TOB body is different - no rubber nubs - does not become an issue as most replace the bearing and center sleeve only and in doing so retain the original housing.
So back to the original question are the "normal" clutch parts available?
Pressure plate - check
Front and rear clutch discs - check
TOB - check
Intermediate plate - not normally required and can be skimmed.

Carl Fausett

In spite of what the WSM says, it is not necessary to replace the bell housing when performing the clutch upgrade. We have done this many times.

The #1-type pivot ball is fairly rare, only the very very early cars have those. Even then, you can just drill and retap the hole and move on...

Carl Fausett

Correct. But be careful, every time the intermediate plate is machined, the total height of the clutch stack is less, the clamping force is a little less, and the clutch becomes easier to slip.

Having said that, if yours is the 219 HP 78/79 model with no power add-ons and driven as a touring car (not a sports car) then keeping your concentric clutch for as long as you can get the parts can work for you and may be less $$ then converting to the pinned clutch.

hacker-pschorr

I'm still stuck in the mentality that Porsche upgraded those parts for a reason. If someone is going to shell out a few thousands dollars for a complete clutch pack to upgrade, why stop at the fork and release bearing?
Unless for some reason the later forks have become difficult to source.

ROG100

Hacker - why would you want to upgrade?
As already said the parts are available apart from the intermediate plate.
Kit is about $1000 for the early cars. Pressure plate, 2 x clutch plates and TOB.

The uprated arm 928 116 832 09 is readily available for $175 and the ball also. However you will then need a later complete NLA TOB. I am pretty certain Mark sells complete rebuilt ones.

Carl Fausett

We also sell rebuilt early throw-out bearings.

Hymodyne

I found an old thread with your core charge and pricing, What re you charging now for the service?

hacker-pschorr

I do a lot of things people don't understand.
One aspect is the idea of knowingly installing obsolete parts when updated ones are available for similar costs. The fact that the early intermediate disc is not available further supports my view on this. "What-if" someone replaces everything available, keeping the older style, then a bit down the road the intermediate disc starts to act up and needs to be replaced.... now what?

At one time it was "best practice" to replace the intermediate disc when the clutch pack was being replaced. If at any time the pressure place / flywheel were being addressed, the intermediate disc is on the list too. So...... if it's not available.....

This also bring up the idea, that if you are going to update everything, why not just jump to the single disc? I fully support this idea too. The complexity of the double disc is not necessary on the early cars (or stock 32V cars either). Why mess around with the adjustment and possibility of having to mess with wonky intermediate discs??

Another option is just go to Greg's clutch, assuming it's still available.

I'm moving the currently functioning clutch from my 79 to my 78 and upgrading the 79 to an all new (except for the flywheel) single disc. Being my track car, I don't want that intermediate disc on the list of stuff I may have to deal with at the track.

Carl Fausett

$284.00 with exchange.

ROG100

If you buy my bearing and center sleeve send the old TOB to me and I will replace it for you for free - takes less than 5 mins on a press. Just costs you the shipping.

ShawTurnage1988

Alright so after taking the clutch out, the entire unit is going to have to be replaced. From flywheel back. I might be able to salvage the TOB and that's it. So from this point would it honestly be better to stick with the dual disk clutch, or go ahead and upgrade to the single disk?

GlenL

Did you try to adjust the clutch or bleed it?

Why do you think all those clutch parts need to be replaced? Are there grooves from rivet heads in the plates?

ShawTurnage1988

This is what the clutch looks like

ShawTurnage1988

Images of clutch^^

GlenL

How long was the car sitting? Was it in a flood or something?

The clutch looks like it could have been corroded into a single chunk. It might all clean up with some machining. The flywheel is tough as it has that lip. From the pics, it's hard to tell how deep the corrosion goes or if it's on the surface.

Does the TO bearing move smoothly?